air compressor piping

[jay case]

Im considering getting a larger air compressor (maybe 60 gal with 5HP motor).
I would install it outside in a shed and pipe the air into the garage workshop.

Are there some DIY guides for this sort of thing? Can PVC water pipe like available from the home centers work to pipe the air and create manifolds? If so, is the PVC threaded to fit the brass fittings for air connections?

Any thoughts appreciated.

[Brian Backner]

Search the archives here for several threads on this very topic.

Bottom line - DO NOT USE PVC PIPE FOR COMPRESSED AIR!!!

While it has been done, the danger is that smashing it with a board, or anything else, can cause it to shatter and send a gazillion shards flying off in all directions.

Ideally, you would want to use threaded black pipe (as used for natural gas). Given that many people don't have the tools or expertise to use it, there have been many systems built from copper tubing (as used for potable water systems).

Again, search the archives.

Brian

[David Hostetler]

PVC is not a good idea for high pressure dry applications, when PVC lets go, it does so in pieces. When cast iron lets go, it usually just tears.

Having said that, there are plenty of folks using PVC pipe for compressor plumbing. For me this is an area I would spend the extra and get the iron.

[Steve Jenkins]

Don't think that if the pvc is out of the way and will never get hit with a board you will be ok. The shop that was across from where I used to be had pvc piping and ran it at 110psi or thereabouts. they had a rupture in the line in an area above a passage door with no apparent cause. there were shards of pvc stuck in the sheetrock 15-20 feet away. Luckily it happened at night.
I used all copper for my air lines. Not hard to work with and relatively easy to modify when you want to change things up.

[Dan Friedrichs]

I've seen shops where the compressed air was done with PVC, but then they put that pipe inside of a larger diameter PVC pipe. Seems like a LOT of work. Use copper :)

[Gary Lange]

I must be missing something since most small shops would use the air for brad or finish nailer and that can be done very well with a pancake compressor. Why would someone need a 60 gal. 5hp air compressor for this type of work. I could see it if you are working on cars and use a lot of air tools and need the capacity but for a Garage Woodworking shop I just can't justify the need. I know if that is what you want that's fine but I myself can't see a need for that much air.

[Joe Mioux]

I must be missing something since most small shops would use the air for brad or finish nailer and that can be done very well with a pancake compressor. Why would someone need a 60 gal. 5hp air compressor for this type of work. I could see it if you are working on cars and use a lot of air tools and need the capacity but for a Garage Woodworking shop I just can't justify the need. I know if that is what you want that's fine but I myself can't see a need for that much air.

Some ppl use their compressors with sanders, sprayers, ball grinders, etc.

[Bruce Page]

Some ppl use their compressors with sanders, sprayers, ball grinders, etc.

Also the larger tanks/compressors don’t cycle nearly as much as the smaller machines and are usually quieter.

I used copper “L” grade when piping my shop, its only slightly more expensive, ton’s more durable and in my opinion easier and cleaner to install.

[Gary Redden]

I just finished replumbing my shop with copper, it had pvc air lines. Dad installed those when I was just a kid and although it worked I was never really comfortable with them. The compressor lives in a seperate building not attached to the shop so I can hardly hear it when it runs. The copper main line runs underground into the shop and up into the attic. Then I reduced the 3/4" (Type-L) main to 1/2" (Type-L)for the drops and it is all put together with silver solder. It turned out really well but it was not cheap. Then again, I think it was well worth the money spent.

Gary

[Walt Nicholson]

You might want to look at a fairly new product from Pex called Pex-al. It is the only Pex that the company recommends for air although I have heard of other folks using regular Pex as well. It has an aluminum center in it, rated at 200 psi, and goes together with some industrial strength ferrels and screw fittings instead of the special fittings and tools regular Pex requires. A cutter and a pair of crescent wrenches are all you need to install. The fittings are a little spendy so I used black pipe for elbows but I bought a roll of 300 feet for $180 bucks. No affiliation with the company, just very happy with the product for air in my shop.

[David Hostetler]

I must be missing something since most small shops would use the air for brad or finish nailer and that can be done very well with a pancake compressor. Why would someone need a 60 gal. 5hp air compressor for this type of work. I could see it if you are working on cars and use a lot of air tools and need the capacity but for a Garage Woodworking shop I just can't justify the need. I know if that is what you want that's fine but I myself can't see a need for that much air.

Two words.

Spray Gun.

Two more words.

Inline Sander.

a 60 gallon beast is a bit much, but if you spray finishes, or do double duty running auto air tools as well, a pancake compressor just won't cut the mustard. I personally am drooling over the DeWalt 15 gallon portable job on wheels. (D55168). Given the budget and the space though, a big 60 gallon 220V unit would be a nice piece of equipment for the years down the road...

[jay case]

thanks for the input. I suppose another option is to use flexible hose. If I place the unit in another spot outside it might only be 20ft of hose. But the tradeoff is I will have to have 220v wired to there.

[merrill worthington]

There is a product out on the market called Rapid Air and they have kits that you can buy to plumb your shop for air. They have the tubing, manifolds and several other things that you would need. I have seen it advertised and would like to get it for my shop but haven't done so yet it looks like a pretty good product. here is their web site: http://www.rapidairproducts.com/

[Greg Caputo]

I agree that RapidAir seems like a great idea and I recently bought their material. The manifolds etc. are all solid and well made. My problem was with the tubing. It simply didn't want to give up its curl. Their website warns about this and they were certainly correct. I unwound the entire 100' and stretched it as best I could and let it remain that way for three weeks before attempting to install it. As soon as the end was released, it nearly jumped back into a tight curl. I tried heating it and that helped slightly, at least for a minute or two, and then it curled again. In some cases, the curl was so profound that I couldn't even push it into the connectors tight enough because the end of the tube wouldn't remain straight for even that 3/4 or so of an inch. All in all I found it difficult to install and discovered several air leaks at the connections. Eliminating those leaks required removing the clamps holding the tube to the wall in order to fiddle with the connection and make sure the end of the tube was seated properly. And when I removed the clamps, the tube curled up again. The tendency for the tube to curl makes it difficult to handle, especially if working in a confined area.

Perhaps others who have installed this can chime in with some ideas how to handle the curl to make the installation better. In my view, that's the only concern I have and if I could learn a better way to uncurl it I would certainly use it again.

Greg

[Karl Brogger]

You might want to look at a fairly new product from Pex called Pex-al. It is the only Pex that the company recommends for air although I have heard of other folks using regular Pex as well. It has an aluminum center in it, rated at 200 psi, and goes together with some industrial strength ferrels and screw fittings instead of the special fittings and tools regular Pex requires. A cutter and a pair of crescent wrenches are all you need to install. The fittings are a little spendy so I used black pipe for elbows but I bought a roll of 300 feet for $180 bucks. No affiliation with the company, just very happy with the product for air in my shop.

I was going to mention this stuff as well. Watched some being installed at a place I used to work at and it seemed like a great product. Normally I'd go with the black pipe, but this is way easier to install and doesn't rust.

[jay case]

when using an oiled compressor, I understand oil can get in the air lines. When a compressor is general purpose use, to including spraying finishes, is there special precautions or apparatus needed to keep the oil out of the air?

[Chris Damm]

when using an oiled compressor, I understand oil can get in the air lines. When a compressor is general purpose use, to including spraying finishes, is there special precautions or apparatus needed to keep the oil out of the air?

They make filters for that.

[Bob Winkler]

I too am planning air for my new shop. I plan to use 1/2" goodyear air hose and run the lines in the walls. To me it seems simple and foolproof. No rust, it's inexpensive, easy to install. Two 50' sections should be able to run both sides of my shop with some intermediate drops to bulkhead fittings.

Am I missing something obvious, because it seems too simple.

Bob

[Jim Sears]

I'm too am planning air for my new shop. I plan to use 1/2" goodyear air hose and run the lines in the walls. To me it seems simple and foolproof. No rust, it's inexpensive, easy to install. Two 50' sections should be able to run both sides of my shop with some intermediate drops to bulkhead fittings.

Am I missing something obvious, because it seems too simple.

Bob
The only problem I see with this is that if there is a chance that mice get in the walls, they love to chew on rubber. If that happens, it would be a PIA to repair.

[Robert Reece]

I don't know about rubber in the walls. Doesn't rubber have about a 10 year life? This kind of sounds like running garden hose in your walls to carry your water. I guess I wouldn't do it, at least not in the walls. Why not keep the rubber hose surface mounted? If you wanted to make it look neat and organized, you could probably fish it through 1.25" electrical conduit.

[Robert Reece]

My previous message recommended running rubber air hose in PVC conduit. You could also run hydraulic hose. You can get a 300" hose with 1/2" NPT ends for $45. That's 25ft or a $1.80/ft. Installation would be pretty quick as you can just use black pipe fittings as needed.
If you need 3/4" hose for your mains, that is going to cost $90 for 25ft.
I see the advantage to this hose is that it can easily move with you. The disadvantage is that you can't cut it yourself. Although you can fairly easily make up a few feet with some black pipe.

[Bob Winkler]

I didn't know about mice liking rubber. I have a rubber line running from my garage to my basement (about 40') for about ten years now and haven't had a problem with rubber rot or mice.

Since I plan on sheetrocking the walls anyway, perhaps I could just run PVC air lines in the walls where I would be protected from shrapnel if it did rupture. I would use rubber outside the wall for the compressor connection.

I'll have to look at PVC costs to compare.

Bob

[Jason Raksnis]

For those of you interested, I used 3/4" and 1/2" type L copper with solid brass quick connect fittings. I got mine at Lowes in the plumbing section and i must say I'm totally satisfied. These fittings have a rubber O ring, are rated at 175 psi and are a snap to install. Inside the fitting are stainless steel teeth that grip the pipe and hold it from pulling off. I was leary at first, but after running 70 feet around my shop with 7 drops, I filled it with 150 pounds of air and went on vacation for almost two weeks. Came back and it didnt drop one pound. It looks professional, and was so easy to install. The only down side is its expensive. Some of the fitting are 15 bucks, and well copper aint getting any cheaper. Just my two sense worth......

Jason

[jerry nazard]

I too am planning air for my new shop. I plan to use 1/2" goodyear air hose and run the lines in the walls. To me it seems simple and foolproof. No rust, it's inexpensive, easy to install. Two 50' sections should be able to run both sides of my shop with some intermediate drops to bulkhead fittings.

Am I missing something obvious, because it seems too simple.

Bob

I seem to remember that when running flex lines, you need to position horizontal sections in straight runs, dropping 1/4" or so a foot to allow water to run off. Check the archives for previous posts.

[John Pratt]

Just installed new piping in my shop (100'x40') for compressed air on my newest compressor. My old compressor is a 120gal speedair with black iron pipe and the newest one is a IR 5hp 60 gal and I went with the new Ingersoll Rand Simplair easy line piping http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/IS/Product.aspx-am_en-33037. No pipes to thread and it goes together like tinkertoys when we were young. This stuff is easy to install and if you need to move the lines it snaps apart and back together (for you plumbers, it is like Sharkbite). The piping is aluminum and so far no problems.

One post referred to running the lines from a separate shed. if you plan to spray you will definitely need an inline filter, but you also need to look into an inline dryer. The temp differences between the air in the line and the outside air can cause condensation in the line. bad for the line, bad for the tool, bad for the project.