PM2000 extension table slightly bowed

[Lewis Cobb]

I'm finally getting to the process of bolting up the extension table to my PM2000. I could not get it flush with the right wing after fiddling for a bit and then realized that it might have a slight bow in it from front to back.

Sure enough - took it off and checked it and a straight edge rocks back and forth a fair bit. The tablesaw wing is dead flat - so that edge is not the culprit.

The extension table does not bolt to the wing, just the fence rails, so it pretty much has to be flat along this edge to get it flush. I can't for the life of me see why Powermatic did not make this so it bolts to the wing - there seems to be room for the holes and bolts etc.

I think I have a solution - other than trying to drill the wing (which is plan B) - I'm going to get a piece of 1.5 x 3/16" steel flatbar, clamp the extension table against my workbench, and then screw the flat bar into the plywood stretcher under the extension table closest to the edge that mates with the tablesaw wing. That ought to teach it.

I checked this "clamping the extension table against the workbench" trick tonight before calling it a day, and it does pull the table flat. Only needs a single bar clamp in the center of the span front to back. No flatbar long enough in the shop so I'll have to pick up a piece tomorrow.

Anyway, I was just wondering if any of you had this sort of issue when you assembled your PM2000 and if there are other approaches I might be missing and should consider.

Thanks !

Lewis

[glenn bradley]

Having added two additional CI wings to my saw I would see no problem with drilling the edge of your wing and the table edge and using this to align the table's edge.

[Chip Lindley]

Drill a hole at the center of your CI wing. Don't drill too close to the bottom edge. Center the hole in the CI as much as possible. Then drill through the extension table. Jack up the ext. table until it is flush with the CI surface and secure the bolt! A 5/16" Machine bolt is plenty large. 3/8" Max! Use a Lock washer under the nut, and a couple of flat washers under the head against the wood frame.

[Lewis Cobb]

There might not be any rush on getting this extension table mounted. Before leaving for work this morning I had a thought and checked the rails - looks like they are warped. i.e. the fence would drop and jam against the table when moved from left to right.

I also remeasured the depth of the extension table - damn thing is deeper than the extension wings - by about 1/16" - this would explain the trouble I was having yesterday trying to position it in place.

Will have to double check things when I get back to the house tonight.

[D-Alan Grogg]

There might not be any rush on getting this extension table mounted. Before leaving for work this morning I had a thought and checked the rails - looks like they are warped. i.e. the fence would drop and jam against the table when moved from left to right.

I also remeasured the depth of the extension table - damn thing is deeper than the extension wings - by about 1/16" - this would explain the trouble I was having yesterday trying to position it in place.

Will have to double check things when I get back to the house tonight.

Depending on the season, I have a slight concave bow in the extension table where it meets the right CI wing. Since it doesn't affect performance of the saw, I don't worry about it. Regarding the rails, mine were slightly bent in shipping, but PM CS was happy to send out a new set in addition to a new extension table (because I had already drilled holes based on the bent rails).

[Lewis Cobb]

Depending on the season, I have a slight concave bow in the extension table where it meets the right CI wing. Since it doesn't affect performance of the saw, I don't worry about it. Regarding the rails, mine were slightly bent in shipping, but PM CS was happy to send out a new set in addition to a new extension table (because I had already drilled holes based on the bent rails).

I certainly have no problems with PM customer service - they have been great since the start of this PM2000 saga over a year ago. At the time I bought 4 machines from them and all but this one have been 100% right out of the crate. For some reason I just cannot seem to get something that is within the specs when it comes to the saw. I've become real good buddies with one of their tech support guys in the process !

I'm going to re-check the rails tonight before they get another order on the way to me. If it was just the bow in the table I am sure I could fix it and/or live with it - but it's a good 1/16 deeper than the extension rails and as a reusult when you force the table flush with the wing, it splays out the front and back rail so there's a gap between them and the wing - can't be good. After taking the table off, they did spring back into place, but checking the parallelness of them with the saw top, they are now out. Could be they are either misaligned and need to be adjusted again or they are bent. I'll know tonight when I get back to the house and have time to dig into it.

If they are in fact bent, then the next thing I will be checking is the table top itself - my luck would have that twisted as well. *sigh*

[Mark Koury]

I had a similar problem with the same saw. I knocked off the wooden ribs of the extension table and replaced them. Now it’s flat. It’s a shame you have to remake this but ... this is woodworking - you can fix it.

[Lewis Cobb]

Right, so I checked things over last night. The extension top is more like 3/32 deeper than the extension wing - there's no wonder I was reefing on it so hard to get it into place. The bow in the center is .040". Both things are fixable - I can brace the bow out and running a router down one side can trim off the 3/32 - along with the black plastic edging on the extension table top :( - but a trip to the local cabinet guys might fix that up for me. I don't tend to use this particle board edging and I suspect the stuff they use is more durable and thicker than the stuff from the hardware stores anyway.

The front and rear rails, while re-aligned to be pretty parallel to the saw top itself, are still dropping a strong .050 to .065" from left to right. Way more than the .032" that the fence sides sit up from the saw surface (this measurement is spec'd and detailed how to set in the manual - they even include small plastic shims to do it with the fence).

So, I am thinking the fence will have the opportunity to bind up on the table when it's running from left to right.

I got to thinking that the sag might be due simply to weight as the rails are cantilevered out on the right side hanging in the air. By supporting them at the ends and even driving some shims in under the ends to "lift them up" - I changed the total drop by a whopping .003" - haha. Those things are seriously rigid and the out of strightness I am seeing is the metal and not gravity for sure.

Never having worked with a Bies. style fence before I am not sure these measurements are critical. I will call my buddy at PM today and have a chat with him about it. He's offered to send me some Tennessee billy goats as well with the next shipment when he learned that I generated 15 garbage bags of grass clippings the last time I mowed my lawn :D

[Lewis Cobb]

Well a call to the PM customer service rep today and about 1 minute explaining the situation and there are new rails and extension table on the way ! Can't argue with that. I am still not sure what the actual "specs" are with the fence rails but whatever they are my measurements were outside it I guess. I explained I could attempt to fix the table but he figured "let's try another table first". Worst case I guess I get two attempts at fixing it if the second one is as wide as the first :D.

Now, what can I possibly do with extra rails ? They didn't want me to send them back - more trouble and cost than it's worth to them I guess.

Right, well back to other tasks in the shop while I await the next shipment's arrival.

Lewis