Extension table for Contractor Saw

[David Tang]

I have a contractor saw with fence rails that go out about 30". I want to install an extension table between the rails using 3/4" plywood but I can't seem to figure out how to attach it to the main table/rails. Any suggestions?

[Tyler Howell]

Dave,

My Old Cman Contractor had holes predrilled both on the wings and in the rails. Where there wasn't one, I made one with a counter sink to accept flat head bolts.
Now if you need and Outfeed table, Rockler and I'm sure others sell a hardware package or the whole table assembly that makes a quick removable table with folding legs.
My extension table has a hardwood apron on all 4 sides to bolt into.;)

[David Tang]

Thanks for the reply, Tyler.

Can you describe the apron? Pics or a diagram would really be appreciated. I think that's the problem I'm having - 3/4" ply is not thick enough and doesn't line up with holes in table and rails.
dt

[Jim Becker]

Put a hardwood (or plywood) "frame" under it to both provide better support and a way to easily bolt it to the rails.

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

David
After you have doubled up on the plywood (as Jim suggested)
you could used brass threaded inserts in the plywood and bolt from the existing table to the extensions.
I have done this - there is a thread or post somewhere on the forum with a photo of my "mobile contractor's saw". I just don't know how to direct you to that post short of telling you to exercise a search, using the search button on the forum.
Daniel :cool:

[Lee Schierer]

I can think of two ways to do this.

Make a framed piece of 3/4" plywood with a skirt around the edges. Place t-nuts on the inside of the fram and run bolts through the angles on your saw and into the t-nuts. You might need to counter bore the t-nuts on the back side before you glue the frame pieces to the top. That is how the wood section was added to my saw as shown to the right of the picture below.

http://home.earthlink.net/~us71na/lsfence1.jpg

Or go double thickness and use tapped plates or nuts in recesses like they make for pulling counter top joints together.

[Jerry Olexa]

Both Delta and Rockler have options and kits for standard contracter's T Saw extensions. You might consider if making it to use a smooth, stable surface such as MDF covered by a laminate.

[David Tang]

Should the skirt/apron be 1x2 or 1x3? If I double up on the plywood and use threaded inserts, how do I get the extension to flush up to the table?

[Mike Cutler]

David. Iam going to attempt to post a few pics of the extension table on my Jet Contractor saw. In the pictures there is a darker colored wood between the cast iron top and the extension table. This piece is appro. 3" wide and bolts to the saw using recessed bolts. The actual Oak frame for the extension wing is affixed to this "sistered" piece and to the front and rear rails. Please excuse the mess, I'm in the middle of a lot of repetetive router work and can't really remove the router until I'm done

[Jim Becker]

Should the skirt/apron be 1x2 or 1x3? If I double up on the plywood and use threaded inserts, how do I get the extension to flush up to the table?
David, the "skirt" (frame) under the stock table for my Jet saw is made of 3/4" thick material (oak in this case) and about 1.5" tall. That should work well for just about any saw that I can imagine unless you have some kind of rail system that sits a lot lower. The best way to determine what will work for you is for you to measure the distance from the table top to the bottom of your rails. That will give you the total thickness you want when the extension table stop and support frame/apron is combined.

[Dean Baumgartner]

David,
On my old Delta Motorized saw I used a piece of angle attached (bolted) to the extension table then used countersunk screws through the top and into the angle to attach the extension table to the shelf angle that was attached to the saw. This worked well for over 10 years before I upgraded the saw. :D

[Tyler Howell]

Hey Dave,
Just happened to be tearing the Cman down to move out to the garage, This is the Rockler router extension table with 2'' apron, counter bored, glued and screwed into the 3/4" mdf top with pressure laminate surface. Very simple construction;)

[David Tang]

Thanks, Tyler. I get it now. But, how did you manage to get it flush with your main table?

[Tyler Howell]

Thanks, Tyler. I get it now. But, how did you manage to get it flush with your main table?
No Biggy Dave.
I used clamps to hold it in place and then drilled the mounting holes. I drilled the holes oversized in the apron for fine tuning.;)

[Dean Baumgartner]

No Biggy Dave.
I used clamps to hold it in place and then drilled the mounting holes. I drilled the holes oversized in the apron for fine tuning.;)

Dave,
To follow up on my shelf angle idea, here's a sketch of what it looks like. Leave one leg of the angle about 1" below the bottom of the extension top, install several bolts to use as jack bolts to adjust the height and level.

Dean

[Ken Leshner]

Dave,
There are plans for a folding outfeed table at http://sawsndust.com/p-outfeed.htm and one of their pictures shows it attached to a Delta contractors saw.

[David Tang]

Dave,
There are plans for a folding outfeed table at http://sawsndust.com/p-outfeed.htm and one of their pictures shows it attached to a Delta contractors saw.
Thanks for the link, Ken. I want to extend the side-to-side surface area of the table (between the fence rails). At the moment, I just use a roller stand to catch the pieces coming off the back of the table. I would like to build an outfeed some day, but I just want get the wing done first.

[Rich Konopka]

Dave,
There are plans for a folding outfeed table at http://sawsndust.com/p-outfeed.htm and one of their pictures shows it attached to a Delta contractors saw.
Does that guy look familar or is it my imagination. :confused: :confused: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Jim Becker, Wasn't that guy on the cover of Rolling Stone???