How to cut Formica exact?

[Benjimin Young]

I am doing an odd repair that requires a 20x 30" piece of
Formica (out of square and no perfectly straight edge ) be inset into a recess with no cosmetic room for error. The constraint is the old teak U capped boarders which cannot be removed and produce a 3/8 recess. I can think of two options: 1) Create a template and then use a router to flush trim the piece before installing or 2) Cut in with my bandsaw 1/4" blade, and do a final dry fit adjust by hand filing before installing.

I would appreciate any ideas or thoughts on how you would attack this problem. Also, can Formica be cut cleanly on a bandsaw 1/4" blade?

Thanks,
Ben

[Chip Lindley]

Bandsaws and "Formica" do not Mix!

I would hand-trim a template from tempered hardboard to exact size, then use as a pattern. Attach an oversize sheet of laminate to the template with double-sided carpet tape, so there is no chance of movement. Trim all four edges with a ball bearing edge trimming bit. Use mineral spirits to slowly separate the laminate from the carpet tape. Exactamundo!

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

your template idea may be the ticket.
You could make it from more than one piece so as to let you align the edges in situ and screw or glue them in place on a larger sub sheet.

[Jamie Buxton]

Before you invest a lot of work into the formica, you might check out that business of the overhang. You just might not be able to get the formica in there. I'd cut a piece of cardboard to size, and see if it can actually go in.

[harry strasil]

I got a set of bifold doors (2) to use as closet doors, the opening was not square, I used my sheetmetal layout skills to lay out the doors for cutting to size for the contractor,

1. obtain very accurate measurements of all 4 sides of the opening

2. obtain both diagonal measurements of the opening

3. determine how much to cut off the bottom.

4. split the difference and mark in from each edge for the bottom measurement and scribe that along the side you want to look straight and normal, and mark the top to bottom measurement of that side.

5. using a story stick, scribe an arc for the diagonal measurement on that line.

6. using the story stick, scribe an arc for the top measurement using the point where the arc crosses the side line.

7. using the story stick again, scribe an arc from the bottom starting point so that it crosses the top arc.

8. using the story stick again, scribe an arc for the bottom measurement.

9. using the point where the top and diagonal arcs cross scribe an arc for the other side measurement.

10. check the other diagonal measurement.

11. connect all the places where the arcs cross and the top and bottom points on the first line and it will fit every time.

12. use a trying piece of hardboard to finalize any wavy or unstraight sides and use a router with a top bearing bit like chip stated to make the real thing.

[harry strasil]

or you can just cut some 4 or 5 inch wide hardboard with 30 degree angles the length of each of the sides and trim to fit the edges and use double stick tape to stick another smaller piece of hardboard to the edges for a template.

This method is easier, you don't have to read directions and you can concentrate on one side at a time.

[Todd Burch]

A Stanley 110 will perfect fit that laminate just fine.