Shelf pin hole drilling jig

[Wes Billups]

I’ve got a bunch of pantry/closet organizers to build and have to admit I’m not real excited with the concept of drilling the shelf pin holes with my Rockler jig. I just get too much tear out, especially in melamine. I’m toying with making a router based jig to drill the holes and am hoping for feedback or pictures of any that you may have built. I’ve seen the NYW version and will probably base my design on Norm’s. I think I’ll use some t-track and cam clamps to make adjustment and clamping easier.

Questions for those that have used a router to drill pin holes.
1. Do you get any tearout with the router?
2. What kind of router bit do you recommend? I’m thinking an upcut spiral.

Thanks,
Wes

[Rob Cunningham]

I use a homemade jig similar to the NYW jig. The holes are spaced 2" on center. A carbide spiral up cut bit has always worked well for me in plywood or solid wood. As long as it's sharp, there has been no tear out. I haven't used melamine but I don't think you would have any problems.

[Joe Scarfo]

I simply use peg board... it works great

[Prashun Patel]

Have you tried a new bit?

Also, you might try taping the drill line with painters tape and then drilling thru that.

You can also try clamping the jig to the piece before drilling, instead of just relying on the indexing pin or yr hand to steady the jig. This will basically make it serve as a zero-clearance-insert, which will help reduce tearout.

[Lee Schierer]

Are you using a brad point bit? You get much less tear out with brad points than conventional twist bits.

[Wes Billups]

Just to clarify the bit is a brad point and brand new. I've tried tape, corded drill, and clamping the jig down. The tearout isn't horrendous I'm just looking for something that would be a little better than what I've got.

Thanks,
Wes

[Louis Brandt]

I've just had the same problem with the same Rockler jig. I'm also using their brad point bit. I'm drilling into select pine, and I have clamped the jig onto the pine. I'm not getting bad tearout, and I'm not getting it in every hole, but I am getting some.

On the question of putting painter's tape over the area, wouldn't that just get messy with the bit constantly wound up with tape?
Louis

[Michael Wildt]

I recently modified some prefab kitchen cabinets. It involved reducing the depth of the cabinet so I had to cut both new rabbet for the back and drill new holes for cams and shelf pins/dowel etc. All being a 32 mm system. I used a bradpoint bit and the drill press, no jig, and no tear out. The material was melamine or something similar since it wasn't white per say (though it is super thin and brittle). I had painters tape on top of the material so I could make pencil lines etc. Guess that could help with the tear out. Other would be drill speed and a good sharp bit.

Can the tear out be covered by the shelf pin ? Some pin designs have a little collar that will cover the hole a tiny bit.

[glenn bradley]

I’m not real excited with the concept of drilling the shelf pin holes with my Rockler jig. I just get too much tear out, especially in melamine.

The Rockler jig will accept a 3/8" template collar. This is why I got the jig. This and a 1/4" downcut spiral bit in my plunge works great as long as there is nothing in the way of the template or router body. That is; do the holes before assembly ;-)

[Joe Scharle]

I agree with Glenn; down cut spiral. Brush attachment on vac hose will get remaining chips out.

[Jerome Hanby]

I used a pretty standard home made jig, 1 inch center holes large enough for the router template. I used a standard straight carbide tipped (or whatever term you use to describe carbide cutting edges) router bit. Slight departure, I used sleeves for each hole so they wouldn't get "wallowed" out by the shelf pins. Rockler sells them, but I found them much cheaper googling for a source, I can look up the company if anyone wants it. Basically, after routing my holes, I gave them a twist or two with my hand held countersink tool, then pressed in the sleeve. They have a small lip and that covered up any minor tearout I had...

[Maik Tobin]

I made a jig out of a steel ruler. Drilled 1/4 inch holes every inch and use a 1/4 inch drill bit with a stop.

[Jason Hallowell]

+1 on using a router with a downcut spiral for melamine.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,


I simply use peg board... it works great

Same here - pegboard & a Vix bit.

I think some are missing the point here that the holes that get the pins aren't the problem.
It's the other holes - the ones that won't get pins - where any tear out sticks out like a sore thumb.

[Steve Clardy]

I've had the rockler jig for several years now.
I take a file and sharpen the bit, even the new bits.
They are not sharp from the factory.
No tearout after I sharpen

[Wes Billups]

I take a file and sharpen the bit, even the new bits.


Steve, I'll try this tonight as I'm happy with the jig other than the tearout.

Wes

[Louis Brandt]

Steve,
I've had the same problem with my Rockler jig. Can you give me some advice on how to sharpen the bit with a file? I've never used a file to sharpen a bit, so can you tell me what kind of file to use and maybe a little info on the correct way to sharpen it?
Thanks,
Louis

[Steve Clardy]

I use a small, 3-sided file, about 5 inches long. Couple of bucks at the hardware store.
I file only the end, outer portion of the bit. Not the point.
I put it in a wooden faced vise. I file downward from the front of the cutting edge. I'm right handed, so I file the right side, then turn the bit 180 and do the other side. Doesn't take much

[Louis Brandt]

Thanks Steve,
I have another project that needs the same Rockler jig. I'll give your method a try on that one.
Louis

[frank shic]

wes, make sure the speed is cranked up on your drill as well.

[Joe Zerafa]

I always found with my rockler jig that running at the fastest speed and slowing the feed rate down makes a huge difference.


Joe Zerafa

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I prefer center cutting down spiral. Of course ya gotta allow for chip ejection with a trapped down cut.

[Larry Edgerton]

Use your drill jig and brad point. Instead of drilling the hole in forward, start it in reverse to score the melamine on the surface by pressing fairly hard for a second or two, then move the drill into forward and finish the hole.

No chipout.

[Jim Becker]

I build the shelf-pin jig from the New Yankee Workshop "Jigs" double episode and have been very pleased with it. Norm Abram designed it to be very similar to the expensive MEG aluminum shelf pin drilling jig he's used on many projects. I have zero tearout using the plunge router. Zero. I can't say that for other systems I tried that use a drill bit...and the Rockler "Jig-It" was the worst.

[glenn bradley]

I prefer center cutting down spiral. Of course ya gotta allow for chip ejection with a trapped down cut.

+1 on downcut. I really have no ejection problems as long as the hole isn't deeper than the flutes and the bit speed is high.

[Chip Lindley]

Now, Here's how to bore shelf pin holes! My GLOAT was picked up south of KC yesterday! (Another Arthur Bryant's BBQ Lunch!)

The cabinet maker replaced this pristine machine with a 3ph./pneumatic clamping machine. At 13 shelf pin holes at a whack, I'm still way ahead of the game for only $575!

[Brad Ridgway]

On the downcut bit, is there any special config (whiteside has various downcut options)...

I was thinking the standard downcut type in this config: 1/2" shank 1/4" diameter 3/4" cutting depth (RD4675)

Assuming this will be good for not just melamine but avoiding tearout in veneered ply as well?

thx
-brad