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Brian Runau
07-06-2009, 3:04 PM
I recently bought some "brass" screws from Lowes. One snapped in half, when I backed it out. Looking at it more closely, it appears to be aluminum with a gold pigment. You should not be able to snap true brass with a drill.

any places to get good quality legitimate hardware?

Thanks

Brian

Cliff Rohrabacher
07-06-2009, 3:16 PM
The garbage they sell at the borg doesn't even deserve the name garbage.

McFeely's will cost ya more but you'll like 'em way better.

I have become addicted to the Star Drive SST screws.

http://tinyurl.com/lupwvj

Mike Circo
07-06-2009, 3:31 PM
Actually brass is pretty soft and is always prone to snap off if screwed into hardwood without a proper pilot hole. Some folks will suggest screwing the same size steel screw first, removing it, then putting in the brass screw for it's decorative use.

I will second the cruddy qualilty of home center screws and additionally second the use of McFeely's for all my quality fastner purchases.

M

Joe Scharle
07-06-2009, 3:56 PM
The McFeely's catalog is a great mini course on screws. Informative little articles throughout.

Lee Schierer
07-06-2009, 4:09 PM
Actually, brass screws will snap pretty easily with a prower driver in hard wood. You need to drill correctly sized pilot holes and lubricate the threads with beeswax (not parafin or soap). If you can find the same size screw made from steel, tap the holes with a steel screw first.

If you lubricate the threads of any type of screw with bees wax the torque to drive it in will be reduce by at least one half.

Brian Runau
07-06-2009, 4:34 PM
Thanks to all.

I did predrill and it was into 50 year old pine flooring, was just holding down a carpet strip? Go figure

Garth Keel
07-06-2009, 4:51 PM
Since I started buying my screws etc at McFeely's: No striped heads, nothing bent, nothing broken etc. The difference is worth a little higher price.

Brian Runau
07-07-2009, 3:27 PM
couldn't get your link to work?

Thanks

Brian

Jeff Willard
07-07-2009, 8:07 PM
You need to drill correctly sized pilot holes and lubricate the threads with beeswax (not parafin or soap).

Why not paraffin? Not being confrontational, just curious. Never heard that before.

Larry Frank
07-07-2009, 9:36 PM
I have the same question. Why beeswax better than paraffin? According to one source, bees wax melts at 113°F and paraffin at 126°F. Not too much difference and both will provide lubrication as the screw warms up.

Tom Esh
07-08-2009, 12:26 AM
Thanks to all.

I did predrill and it was into 50 year old pine flooring, was just holding down a carpet strip? Go figure

Pilot with a steel screw, then beeswax on the brass, but never a power driver. IMO finish hardware should always be hand driven, though if you must, brass plated steel would be a better choice.

Paul Ryan
07-08-2009, 8:29 AM
McFeely's, Rockler, or Woodcraft has good quality screws. After buying screws from McFeely's I cringe everytime I have to use screws from the borg. They screws are junk.

A word of advice on screws. I installed my wixy digital fence measuring do dad last night. Wixy makes a really nice product that works perfectly, but the bolt that came with it are GARBAGE!. I broke 4 before deciding to go to tractor supply to by better bolts.

Don Morris
07-08-2009, 12:52 PM
My father-in-law was a Swedish carpenter by heredity. Grew up literally walking in sawdust. He ended up running the cabinetry section for a major brand. He told me to use soap or wax on screws. There may be a reason to use a particular type of lubricant on some types of metals...that I can understand. Wax, which is what I use is pretty inocuous, has worked well for me. I called Baldwin Brass once for some advice about a hinge (I think) and they advised only hand tools to screw in brass screws.

Cliff Rohrabacher
07-08-2009, 1:14 PM
couldn't get your link to work?

Thanks

Brian

http://www.mcfeelys.com/

Resolves URLs seem to be having trouble lately

Cliff Rohrabacher
07-08-2009, 1:18 PM
IMO finish hardware should always be hand driven, though if you must, brass plated steel would be a better choice.

LOL. I have way better luck with a drill and a driver bit.
When I am doing it by hand, I tend to wobble all over the place and eventually make an otherwise pretty screw head into a thing of horror. With the drill, I can muckle onto it with both hands push in the direction I want to go and hold it dead straight leaving the screw head like it was never touched.

Don Morris
07-08-2009, 1:19 PM
Should have added a second to McFeelys. In fact I just ordered some more screws from them this morning. The comment about their catalog being a great primer on "everything you wanted to know about screws and more" is true. It's an excellent source.

Cliff Rohrabacher
07-08-2009, 1:23 PM
Why not paraffin? Not being confrontational, just curious. Never heard that before.

Maybe because the ooey gooey sticky adhesive nature of Bee's wax lets you get more on the screw?

Parrafin won't attract moisture if rust is an issue.
Some folks prefer bees wax because they will make a galootish finish with the stuff and it only makes sense to use it throughout.

Some people prefer it for reasons I have never been able to get explained.
I see bee's wax very differently than some. To me the stuff is acidic and retains moisture along with being adhesive as all get out.
But that said, I ain't never heard about any one getting their plane irons all rusted using it.

Lee Schierer
07-08-2009, 1:41 PM
He ended up running the cabinetry section for a major brand. He told me to use soap or wax on screws.

Soap is hydroscopic and will tend to draw moisture and cause steel screws to rust. Toilet rings and paste wax all contain solvents which may interfere with finishing. Parfin is too hard and flakey to work well. Beeswax is the best because it sticks to the threads, has a low melting point and will not stain the wood.

Paul Ryan
07-08-2009, 9:45 PM
Soap is hydroscopic and will tend to draw moisture and cause steel screws to rust. Toilet rings and paste wax all contain solvents which may interfere with finishing. Parfin is too hard and flakey to work well. Beeswax is the best because it sticks to the threads, has a low melting point and will not stain the wood.


I have to dissagree with Lee. I have worked with old old wood workers that tought me the soap trick. As long as those guys have been cutting wood, I never heard them concerned about rust. It may be a possibility but I really doubt that the soap could draw in enough mositure to rust the screw or nail. I have used soap many times and never have had a problem.