Buying gouges

[Keith Albertson]

This is basically a follow up question to the previous thread. Now that I understand the true meaning of roughing, spindle, and bowl gouges, I would like some buying advice.

The gouges in the set of Penn State tools I've been using clearly do not meet any of the specifications of bowl, spindle or roughing gouges. The three gouges all have the same grind, and are on tangs. I would like to replace them.

My question is, if you had about $100 to spend on gouges, and want to be able to experience spindle and face plate turning, what would you buy? I definitely want a true bowl gouge.....should I get a 1/2", a 3/8" ? Should I also get a real roughing gouge?

Any advice on tool selection and manufacturer would be greatly appreciated. I understand that Thompson tools are top rate, but I'm don't think I'm ready to invest that much yet. Please don't tell me to buy skews....I'll get there eventually. Also, I've read on other threads about the HF set being ideal for newbies.....but it is very similar to my Penn State set and I'd like to move upscale a bit.

Keith Albertson

[David Christopher]

Keith, if you have 100 bucks you can get a thompson....I dont know what your needs are but I got the 5/8s

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have the Thompson 1/4" and 1/2" V flute bowl gouge. His tools are excellent. The gouges you have sound like spindle gouges used to do spindle work only.

[Ted Evans]

I concur with David. I am new at this turning business and have been trying to use a set of Buck tools as well as some very old, un-named ones. I use a Tormek for sharpening and get a very nice edge on them so do not think that was the cause for my dis-satisfaction.

I ordered four gouges from Thompson and wow, what a huge difference in my turning experience. The ones that I got were, 3/8" detail, ($40), 3/8" V shaped bowl ($45), 5/8" V shaped bowl ($80) and a 1/2" spindle ($50).

Depending on what you are turning as to the best ones for you. I have only done handles for the tools since receiving them and love the 5/8, even tho it is a bowl gouge, and the 3/8" detail. The 1/2" spindle was the last one to receive a handle so have only used it to play with a little.

For myself, if I could only buy two and had a budget of $100, it would be the 1/2" bowl and the 3/8" detail. I would suggest calling Doug, he is extremely friendly and very generous with his suggestions, a super nice person and his tools definitely make a difference.

I also bought a 1" skew from him and can actually use it like it is supposed to be used and boy does it leave a beautiful finish. I can think of at least three more of his tools I would love to get and hope to do so before he is forced to raise his prices.

These are the expressed opinions of the author and are not necessarily endorsed by anyone. Good luck with your selection.

Bear

[Steve Schlumpf]

Keith - if you already have a PSI set - then you are covered when it comes to spindle turning. Use your $100 budget and pick up a nice bowl gouge. There are lots of gouges to choose from - just make sure you don't get something to small or more than you or your lathe can handle. In my opinion - a 1/2" or better yet, a 5/8" V bowl gouge would be the way to go.

Good luck with your decision and understand - buying gouges isn't a one time thing. Don't know a turner yet with only one bowl gouge to their name!

[Doug Thompson]

I don't know if you have a Oneway Wolverine and the Vari-Grind jig but that's the first purchase to make so you have sharp tools.

The common tools to get are a 1/2 or a 5/8 bowl gouge, remember one bowl gouge will turn a bowl start to finish you really don't need each size, the 1/2 for bowls 10-12 inches and the 5/8 for larger stuff. The Penn State set should have some kind of spindle gouge so a detail gouge is all that is needed for coves and beads. A SRG would be nice to have but a bowl gouge will knock the corners off a spindle blank, look for a sale then pick one up.

[Richard Madison]

Buy one Thompson 1/2" V bowl gouge, and make a parting tool from an old carving knife. That's all you need. You can use the gouge without handle to turn a handle for it. Good first project. You can clean up the grind a bit, but leave the shape exactly as it comes from Doug until you have more experience.

[Jake Helmboldt]

[QUOTE= The gouges in the set of Penn State tools I've been using clearly do not meet any of the specifications of bowl, spindle or roughing gouges. The three gouges all have the same grind, and are on tangs. I would like to replace them. [/QUOTE]

Keith, what gouges from PSI do you have now? That would help considerably in making purchase suggestions.

[Steve Kubien]

For arouund $100 I would be looking at a 1/2" v-grooved Thompson bowl gouge and either a 1/2" or 3/8" spindle gouge (again, Thompson). I have one of his detail gouges as well but find myself using the regular spindle gouges more these days.

My 2 cents.
Steve

On second thought, I would substitute the spindle gouge for a 3/4" skew. Great tool and worth learning how to use.

[Kim Ford]

Repeat of the above.

The two items my hands touch the most when bowl turning are my thompson bowl gouge and the sharpening jig. I like the Sorby but that is just style; the Wolverine is excellent as well.

Learning to take a bowl from start to finish with a bowl gouge is an excellent discipline to learn and will be very helpful as you move on to other things.

[Keith Albertson]

Thanks for all the great suggestions. Thompson tools are overwhelmingly recommended, so I'll visit your website Doug and place an order. Maybe I'll reconsider my "scared of the skew" viewpoint and buy a 1/2inch bowl gouge (I've got a Rikon midi-lath so don't need the larger tool) and a 3/4" skew.....I should be able to turn a suitable handle with what tools I have already.

Keith

[Scott Conners]

The three tools I use the most are my 3/8" spindle (Sorby), my 1/2" V(Thompson), and my parting tool(Harbor Freight). With these three tools, and possibly a skew and spindle roughing gouge, I can do pretty much anything up to light hollowing.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Read about how the gouges are sized. The Sorbys are measured by the gap, and the Thompsons are measured by the tool width. I guess in english, this means the 3/8 Sorby and the 1/2 Thompson are about the same size. It's all on Dougs website. Just letting you know. Contrary to what a lot of people say, I think you only need 1 bowl gouge to start. Maybe after several years, you can get another, and get a different grind.

You do need to get a sharpener of some sort. We could morph this thread into yet another slow speed vs high speed argument.:D