Need a good rip blade

[Jim Barstow]

I'm going to be cutting a large number (> 30) 3/32" x 2 1/2" x 120" ash or cherry strips for lamination into a bed frame. I currently use a freud fusion combo blade on a 5 hp sawstop table saw but I'd like to get a rip blade for this work since it is a pretty big job even for this saw. I also thought that a thin kerf blade might end up saving a some wood since each 1/8" kerf of a normal blade wastes 2/3 of a strip.

I looked at the glue line rip line from freud and they seem to be limited to 1" thick stock. Freud offers 2 rip blades that can handle the thickness I need: the heavy duty LM72R and the thin kerf LM87R. Are there any drawback to using the thin kerf blade? Freud markets it as being best for underpowered saws but I would think it would work even better on a saw like mine which isn't underpowered.

[Brian W Evans]

Jim,

I can't speak to thin-kerf drawbacks, but I own the LM72R (heavy duty) rip blade and I love it. For me it is well worth the effort to switch blades when ripping. I have cut many, many board feet of hardwood with mine and it still cuts as well as the day I first used it. Even on my 2hp saw, I don't experience much slow-down when ripping hardwood. Not that this should be a concern for you, though.

If my calculations are right, the difference would roughly be the need for a 6.6" wide board with the regular blade vs a 5.7" wide board using the thin-kerf. This doesn't amount to a lot of wood being saved.

If it were me, I'd go with the regular kerf and possibly gain some rigidity.

[Bill Huber]

1+ for the LM72R, I have one and it cuts really nice and creates a very smooth cut. I have it on a Jet contractor saw with only 1 1/2 HP motor and it still cuts really good.

I have ripped 8/4 hard maple, 8/4 purple heart with no problem, now I am not saying it zipped right though it, I did have to use a slow feed rate but the cut was great.

[glenn bradley]

If your saw is 3HP or above I would go full kerf. I run a Freud TK 24T rip and a Lietz 24T. Both give me glue ready edges. The Lietz is discontinued but this is the Fre (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1246816332&sr=1-2)ud that I run on a 1-3/4HP saw and it cuts 8/4 beech like buttah.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I've cut 2.5" mahogany with the Freud Glueline rip blade. I don't know why they recommend less than 1" ripping. Seemed to work fine to me. Just my 2 cents.

[Alan Schwabacher]

I use the LU87R thin kerf blade for ripping, and it works fine. You don't need a thin kerf blade on a 5 HP saw, but cutting many thin strips -- your situation -- is exactly where it makes sense. You will get a few more strips, and it's unlikely you will notice any performance difference.

[Philip Johnson]

I can't say anything about freud blades as I seem to always buy forrest but I bought a thin kerf by mistake once and never like it. I used it on a 5hp powermatic and I never thought it cut as well as the full kerf ones. I don't know if it flexes more or what but I never thought it cut as smooth. I would stay with the full kerf and make a bit more dust.

[Peter Quinn]

I have an LM72R, its a fine blade that will do the job. I haven't bothered with a thin kerf on the cabinet saw but make sure if you do that your splitter (or riving knife?) is the proper thickness to work with that configuration, or pull it for that operation.

My favorite rip blade is the Amana heavy duty euro rip. Not sure why but it seems to feed easier than any other I have used, and it makes darn nice cuts too. As good IMO as a glue line rip blade.

[scott spencer]

You're correct about the LM74 not being recommended for stock over 1".... due to it's low side clearance that gives edges that polished look, it'll be more likely to burn 2-1/2" stock.

The LM72 and LU87 are pretty much the same tooth configuration and geometry, but with the LU87 being a TK (as you know). Both are great examples of heavy duty FTG rippers. Either of the Infinity rippers or the Amana Tool FTG ripper would be comparable too. You shouldn't have much trouble with a TK of that caliber, but there will be a higher chance of overheating and deflection with the TK if you're going to rip continuously. Since we're not talking about huge amounts of expensive exotic lumber, I'd go with a full kerf just to be sure.

[John Thompson]

First.. you don't have any reason I can think of to go with a TK blade with your 5 HP TS. No need to pull a load with a Quarter Horse when you can go with a Clydesdale. :)

For ripping thick stock, as Scott stated... the glue line rip will have more tendency to burn. I use Amana 20 T and CMT 24 T both with flat tooth grind. The Freud is an excellent rip blade and currently on sale for $59 from Amazon at the moment. Basically any sharp 24 T FTG will work but the Freud is on sale.

Good luck...