Countertop/Benchtop Material

[Chuck Isaacson]

As you know if you have seen any of my previous posts I am setting up the new workshop. I am getting ready to start building my cabinets and am trying to decide what to use for the countertop/benchtop material. My original thought was to use 3/4" MDF and the cover it up with 1/4" Hardboard then put a hardwood wrap around it. Someone then mentioned to me to use laminte coutertops becaus ethey are cheap and easy to clean. I need to decide which one that to use so that I can finalize the dimensions for the cabinets. Let me know wha tyou guys think. Thanks.

Chuck

[Angie Orfanedes]

I had originally used laminate countertops in my shop. While they looked good at first, they eventually got banged up, because you can't hammer on them - the laminate will chip and break. There were also some stains that would not come out. So, a couple of years ago I junked them and replaced them with yellow pine cut 2-1/2 (from 2x6's) and set on edge to make a butcher block-look top. I used Watco Danish oil and paste wax on them, and they look good. When they need a freshen up, I steel wool or sand or plane them a little and reapply the finish.

[Chris Damm]

I used solid core doors that I got from a commercial contractor friend of mine. They were 36" wide and I cut them down to 30" which makes a very nice work bench/counter top. Check around at HfH Restore.

[Jason Strauss]

Chuck,

I just got started on some cabinets for my garage shop - still need to make the doors. To answer your question, I did almost exactly what you are thinking of doing. I used 3/4 ply (just the cheap stuff) for may case construction and then topped it with 1/4 hardboard with a poplar wrap and face frame.

The 8 ft base section that I just finished is my miter saw station. So, the only thing I'm using for now to hold down the hardboard is the 4 bots that hold down the saw in the middle of the cabinet. I didn't want to glue the top down because I wanted to make it replaceable, so I thought I'd have to use a bunch of screw. To my surprise, however, the top is nice and flat due to the saw holding it down.

By the way, I followed the progress on your shop. Great job! I'm sure I'm breaking the 11th commandment - Thou shalt not covet thy neighbor's shop!

[Thom Sturgill]

If you don't fasten the hardboard down, then it can be easily replaced when it gets too cut up and spilled on. Make the wrap stand proud of the base just enough to be level with the hardboard and it will help keep the hardboard in place. Norm Abrams did something like that on the New Yankee Workshop, and is what I plan on doing for built in cabinets when I build.

IIRC, both Grizzly and Lumber Liquidators carry 1 3/4" maple breadboard which makes an excellent top as does the SYP mentioned above (that's what I did for my free-standing workbench).

[Nate Carey]

Chuck, I fully concur with Chris's suggestion of solid core doors for bench tops. Try one; I know you'll agree with us.

The ultimate in durability is a section of "bowling alley". I have one bench in my shop made from this...2-1/4" x 40" x 72" solid maple (laminated) with the prettiest finish you've ever seen on a work bench. Needless to say I don't move this bench around the shop much.

[Nate Carey]

...hey Thom, Fort Pierce...I know where that is!

[Chuck Isaacson]

Chuck,

By the way, I followed the progress on your shop. Great job! I'm sure I'm breaking the 11th commandment - Thou shalt not covet thy neighbor's shop!

I think that is hilarious!!! Thank you though. I appreciate it. It has been hard to wait this long but now it is here and I am nusy as ever trying to get it shopworthy.. I think for the countertop I am going to use 1/2" MDF and cover it up with the 1/4" Hardboard and wrapping it with some red oak that I have. It will match my cabinets that I am making.

Chuck

[Marc Casebolt]

Chuck,

You say that you will use 1/2" MDF, but I will recommend that you use 3/4" at the very least. I used two layers of 3/4" also covered with the hardboard, and it is way more solid to bang on when you need to. It seems to me that the 1/2" stuff will seem too flimsy and may even break with the normal abuse that a counter top will see in a wood shop.

Marc

[Chuck Isaacson]

Chuck,

You say that you will use 1/2" MDF, but I will recommend that you use 3/4" at the very least. I used two layers of 3/4" also covered with the hardboard, and it is way more solid to bang on when you need to. It seems to me that the 1/2" stuff will seem too flimsy and may even break with the normal abuse that a counter top will see in a wood shop.

Marc

Do ya think so. I plan on using it for just a coutertop. I will have an assembly table where I will do most of my putting together. I had thought about using 3/4" at first but thought it might be overkill. Right when I thought that I have made a decision.....

[Nate Carey]

I've been trying to resist asking this question; please don't take offense...just how much abuse do you think a MDF work bench top is going to withstand?

[Jason Strauss]

Chuck,

You say that you will use 1/2" MDF, but I will recommend that you use 3/4" at the very least. I used two layers of 3/4" also covered with the hardboard, and it is way more solid to bang on when you need to. It seems to me that the 1/2" stuff will seem too flimsy and may even break with the normal abuse that a counter top will see in a wood shop.

Marc


Chuck,

I have to agree with Marc. At least go with 3/4. Also, while I think it would probably be fine, I've read/heard that MDF will sag or warp over time. I went with ply to avoid this.

[Chuck Isaacson]

I've been trying to resist asking this question; please don't take offense...just how much abuse do you think a MDF work bench top is going to withstand?

This is not really a WORKBENCH. This is really a countertop. I am going to put it over my cabinets. It will not get used like a workbench (that is what I say right now). It will serve mostly as a place that I can do a light assembly on small stuff and maybe some routing and what not.

[Jason Strauss]

...also, halfway decent ply is cheaper, at least in my neck of the woods. I think you have Menards up your way - that's where I get my sheet goods. I think 3/4 MDF is $40-50, while 3/4 sanded ply is on sale this week for $29. I wasn't making my cabinets for the kitchen, so I wasn't concerned about top notch quality. Price and durability for the garage, my friend...

[Nate Carey]

...I understand now Chuck...if you're ever visiting western New Hampshire please stop by my shop...I like to show-off my "bowling alley" workbench...Nate

[Chuck Isaacson]

...also, halfway decent ply is cheaper, at least in my neck of the woods. I think you have Menards up your way - that's where I get my sheet goods. I think 3/4 MDF is $40-50, while 3/4 sanded ply is on sale this week for $29. I wasn't making my cabinets for the kitchen, so I wasn't concerned about top notch quality. Price and durability for the garage, my friend...

I think that I can get 1/2" MDF for like $20-25 a sheet. Plywood was more for the decent stuff that would be crappy, but I will have to look again.

Chuck

[dan sherman]

I would recommend at least one layer of 3/4" MDF either covered with hardboard or Formica, Though I think 2 layers would be better.

[dan sherman]

My local Lowe's has 3/4" MDF for $24.12 according to the website. From memory Home depot is always a little more expensive, and Menards a little cheaper (here in Champaign IL anyway).

[Jason Strauss]

My local Lowe's has 3/4" MDF for $24.12 according to the website. From memory Home depot is always a little more expensive, and Menards a little cheaper (here in Champaign IL anyway).

Either I'm way overpaying for MDF or I've doubled the price in my memory. Either way, if you can't tell, I like ply better.

[Marc Casebolt]

It will not get used like a workbench (that is what I say right now). It will serve mostly as a place that I can do a light assembly on small stuff and maybe some routing and what not.


If you are anything like me you will find that any flat surface in your shop will be used eventually as a place to bash on something. I'm just saying that making all horizontal surfaces as heavy duty as you can now will most likely be a good thing. MDF or ply, make it strong enough to clamp to and take future abuse.

Marc

[Brian Tymchak]

Chuck,

Since I have the "real" workbench in the middle of the shop to do the heavy duty work, I used white laminate on my countertop over the side wall storage cabinets. I chose white to reflect light. I have a basement shop and wall mounted cabinets above the counter so it's a little dark along that wall. I will also be adding under-cabinet lights when I can find time to mount them. The top itself is MDF (3/4"+1/2" laminated together) a reuse of tops from old benches. Edges are wrapped in birch to match the birch ply in the cabinets. 1 1/4" tops are probably overkill but I like the weight of it. Really made for a solid worksurface. I extended the top about 3" beyond the front of the cabinet fronts to give me a clamping surface as well. Don't use it often but I still like having it.

Brian

[Jack Ellis]

I'm going to try an experiment of sorts. When a local Mervyn's closed down, I bought up a bunch of shelves from their store fixtures for something like 25 cents a square foot. It's 3/4 inch particleboard covered with a nice smooth impregnated paper finish. If that stuff doesn't work out, I'll replace it with some solid core doors I have, but I think it will be fine for countertops. I also have a 4 foot length of butcher block countertop I'll use somewhere.

I picked up a home made workbench for free that's working out well as an assembly table until I can build something better.