Designing a handplane around an old Sorby iron

[Dominic Greco]

Hi gang,
I'm doing some research for my next project and wanted to get some input from y'all.

As you can see from the rendering and drawing below I'm trying to design a Krenov style plane around an old tapered laminated Sorby Iron I have. It's not so much that I prefer the Sorby over a Hock. I just want to use what I have already. I mean, what else am I going to use this old iron for? :confused:


http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z287/DominicGreco/KrenovSmoother1.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z287/DominicGreco/KrenovSmootherV1.jpg

Before you get all rabid on me :D :D , don't mind the grain orientation in the rendering. I can't control that without doing a lot of extra work.

Anyway, I plan on making the body of the plane from bubinga and the wedge from some (soft) maple. If I'm feeling up to it, I MAY inlay the mouth area with some ebony or rosewood.

As you can see in the preliminary drawing, I made the plane 10" long x 2 7/8" wide x 3 1/2" tall. The height is influenced by the length of the iron. I made the bedding at 50 deg because I wanted a high angle smoother. The mouth is located per the reccomendations in Finck's book which is 5/9 from the back of the plane.

Now that I look at the design I can see that I need to soften up the corners considerably. But what concerns me if the miniscule amount of room for my hand at the back. I'm thinking of extending the body and making it a "long" smoother. And to top it off, the profile seems a bit tall as well. I'm wondering if it will feel, "top heavy".

I realize that I should probably just make the damn thing as see how it feels, but I wanted to get some feedback from those of you that have made their own planes.

[Phillip Pattee]

Dominic,

I think your current design will be just fine if you want to keep the height to match your blade. Your hand will fall naturally to provide more of a push than a downward force. The height will make up for the shortness behind the blade. You will definitely want to ease the edges for comfort.

An alternative is you use a more traditional coffin smoother shape instead of a Krenov profile. The traditional shape looks nice, is comfortable and definitely accomodates the taller blade.

[Bob Haverstock]

Dominic,

I'm glad that you posted your drawings. It looks like you have a plan. I'm guessing that the plane iron is seven or so inches long. Please keep us posted on the progress.

I have had Mr. Finck's book for about a month now, I too have the hand made plane fever. I decided that I would purchase nothing for this project. Today I took one of my larger tapered bearing cups out of my stash. I forged it into a .2 X 1.3 inch bar and then ground it into a plane iron. I made a chip breaker for it and slotted the iron. The iron is about 3.5 inches long. I have maple and walnut for the body. Mine will be a block plane (pocket sized.)

I'm thinking that Dominic will have his finished first.

Bob

[Dominic Greco]

Dominic,

I'm glad that you posted your drawings. It looks like you have a plan. I'm guessing that the plane iron is seven or so inches long. Please keep us posted on the progress.

I have had Mr. Finck's book for about a month now, I too have the hand made plane fever. I decided that I would purchase nothing for this project. Today I took one of my larger tapered bearing cups out of my stash. I forged it into a .2 X 1.3 inch bar and then ground it into a plane iron. I made a chip breaker for it and slotted the iron. The iron is about 3.5 inches long. I have maple and walnut for the body. Mine will be a block plane (pocket sized.)

I'm thinking that Dominic will have his finished first.

Bob
Bob,
Since this project is just in the design stages, I wouldn't place any money on me finishing any time soon. Plus, I'll probably screw something up and need to start over at LEAST once!!

[Dominic Greco]

Actually, I was messing with the idea of going with a more traditional profile. I made the model so that I could save multiple versions of itself. Each with a slightly different look. That's the main reason I mocked up the design using this software

[george wilson]

Bob,does your forged plane iron have a soft skin? Ball bearing steel is 52 100,and has to be kept in a stainless steel wrap when hot,or it will lose carbon at the surface. I've made knives from it.

[Bob Haverstock]

George,

At this moment the iron is at an annealed state. When I'm ready to heat treat it, I won't dally in the forge. I simply get past critical tempurature then quench. I haven't messed with 52100 in several years.

Bob

[Steve knight]

good drawing. I wish I could say I have ever drawn a plane so well but I have not. myself I would dump the chip breaker. no real ed for it and it makes thep lane harder to build and the wedge won't fit as easily.

[Dominic Greco]

....myself I would dump the chip breaker. no real ed for it and it makes the plane harder to build and the wedge won't fit as easily.

Steve,
I read you loud and clear. Don't think I haven't given that idea some thought!

Thanks!

[Ron Petley]

If you are wanting more room at the back for your hand you could add something at the back for your hand. Or make the back part nt a tall, you could cut it down later once you have it made if you wish.
Are you going to add in the inset in front of the mouth, for a little extra it will add to the life of the plane.
Cheers Ron.