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John Miliunas
08-28-2004, 8:53 AM
We're rebuilding our deck and have some posts, which will end up with the endgrain not being covered. I've been thinking of different ways to seal those ends and figured, why not try Anchor Seal? Anyone out there do this and, if so, what kind results/success did you have with it? :cool:

Jason Roehl
08-28-2004, 10:47 AM
John, you certainly could use AnchorSeal, but I think you'll find that it's about like any other sealer use in exterior applications--it won't last real long. I have some cherry logs that have been sitting on my front porch (north side of house) for a little over a year that I AnchorSealed right after cutting them (they were intended for the lathe). They had checks and cracks on the ends within about 9 months or so. The bottom line with exterior coatings (in general terms) is that more solids equals more protection. Wax/paraffin products generally don't last real long (AnchorSeal, Thompson's, etc.). Semi-transparent stains and spar varnishes will buy you a little more time, solid-color stains more yet, and paint the most. Anything that is clear is at the very low end of the scale, and end grain is definitely the most difficult to protect.

Jim Becker
08-28-2004, 10:53 AM
Anchorseal is a wax emulsion product and likely will not last "in the weather" or with ground contact. It also doesn't really seal totally...it's more of a porous partial moister barrier designed to allow moisture get by, but slowly. Jason's advise is solid.

John Miliunas
08-28-2004, 11:12 AM
Thanks guys! :) What you say makes perfect sense! Well....It was just an idea. The use was intended for 4x6 posts, with the upper endgrain exposed to the elements. I think what I may do instead is, lop off those ends at an angle to allow for water runoff and then try a 2-part epoxy for a coating. But, the next question which begs to be asked is, this is treated lumber. Will the epoxy adhere well enough for something like that? :confused: (As you may be sensing, I've dealt with so much rot, which I "inherited" here, I'm trying to do whatever I can to defer it in the future!) Any suggestions are truly welcomed! :cool:

Jim Becker
08-28-2004, 11:14 AM
Angle cut the posts and cap them with either wood or something like copper. Epoxy isn't going to stick very long as there will still be moisture under it...assuming you put it on in about a year once the PT is dry enough! Cap it physically to deal with the water run-off.

John Miliunas
08-28-2004, 11:26 AM
Angle cut the posts and cap them with either wood or something like copper. Epoxy isn't going to stick very long as there will still be moisture under it...assuming you put it on in about a year once the PT is dry enough! Cap it physically to deal with the water run-off.

Jim, I like that idea! We've already incorporated some copper into the back area and that would "flow" with it OK. Thanks! :) :cool:

Dennis Peacock
08-28-2004, 12:29 PM
Mr. Becker comes to the rescue once again.!!!! Good thinking there Jim!! :D

Jamie Buxton
08-28-2004, 2:12 PM
John --

Two suggestions:

1) Roof cement. The stuff I use is labeled "BlackJack Non-fibered Asphalt Emulsion Roof Coating". It is about $5/gal at HD, but I'm sure you find equivalents in any building yard. Like it says, it is asphalt in a water emulsion. It is designed to stick to anything, and designed for long exposure to weather. You apply it with a trowel or a putty knife, and it cures in a day or so. I use it to seal wounds on trees, and for end-sealing lumber while it is air-drying. It bonds well to green wood, and is a completely water-tight seal. The only drawback to it is that it is black, and the layer is maybe an eighth of an inch thick -- whatever you make with your trowel. If your post ends are visible from your deck, you might not like that.

2) Post caps. Posts present end-grain to precipitation. End grain absorbs water well, so you get water damage quickly. If you put any kind of cap on the post, you'll greatly reduce water damage. You can make your own wood caps. Make them the obvious way, with face grain facing up. Face grain absorbs water slower, so it takes longer for damage to appear. (And if a wood cap does die, you can replace it easier than replacing a post!) You can also make caps from other materials like tile or metal. And you can buy metal preformed caps of various shapes and costs. (For instance, the HD site has copper hats for 4x4 posts for as little as $4. Rockler has fancier ones for $13. Google with "post cap", and you'll see terrcotta, plastic, aluminum, wood, and copper.)

John Miliunas
08-28-2004, 3:19 PM
John --

Two suggestions:

1) Roof cement.

2) Post caps. You can also make caps from other materials like tile or metal. And you can buy metal preformed caps of various shapes and costs. (For instance, the HD site has copper hats for 4x4 posts for as little as $4. Rockler has fancier ones for $13. Google with "post cap", and you'll see terrcotta, plastic, aluminum, wood, and copper.)

Jamie, good suggestions! We had thought of the BlackJack, but ruled it out due to the "ugly factor". :rolleyes:

I will, however, try the Google later on! I had just thought of getting some copper flashing and forming my own cap, though I know that LOML would prefer something a bit more upscale. Hopefully, I can find something in the 4x6 variety. Thanks! :) I'll be sure to check it out! :cool: