recommend a router amp and hp for panel bits

[aurelio alarcon]

Could you guys recommend an adequate amount of amperage and horse power for turning large panel router bits. I have a Porter Cable that is 11 amps and 1 3/4 variable speed router and a couple of Craftsmans for light hand use. Is my PC large enough, or will it bog down? I know that it can do it making several passes on panels. But I would like to know if there is a "threshold", if you will, when it comes to amperage and horse power that is recommended for a router table set up.

[Tim Sproul]

I would get vertical bits rather than horizontal bits, unless you are willing to part with the $ for another router?

If so, any of the 15A/3 HP routers will get you there. I've got the PC 7518. You'll want to be sure to get variable speed if you've got or are planning on getting horizontal panel bits. I know some are very successful cutting raised panels in one pass using vertical bits at near full speed and using a Bosch 1617 EVS.

Even with the hefty routers, you may or may not be able to cut the field in one pass. Sharpness of the bits and the density of the wood are the 2 major factors. Also....be sure you've got good chip collection. One pass cutting with those large bits produces A LOT of chips quickly. You can ease the load on the router and cutter by removing some waste on the table saw or other method. Cut the endgrain fields first.....

[Jerry Olexa]

Bigger (HP) is better in this case w panel raising. But I have in past done many raised panels in oak using a PC 1 1/2 HP 690 router mounted on router table . But first I took off a small angle on the table saw and then took several passes on the Rtable to get the look I wanted. Recently, I bought a bigger router w variable speed for this task. My tips are: slow speed down, more power is better but slower speed and take it off in several passes. Use scraps first to test. Rout away!:)

[Kevin Hewitt]

Variable speed is the most important factor for horizontal panel cutters. You need to be able to slow them down. The strength of the motor determines how many passes you have to make to acheive the final profile, so that you don't overload the motor. The more powerful the motor, the fewer the passes. If time is your friend and you don't mind all the extra passes, a large HP motor isn't required.

Cheers,

Gump

[Jim Becker]

While you can use any variable speed router for these cutters, you you'll be happiest with a 15 amp unit. A reasonable compromise are the 12-13 amp units that typically carry a 2.5hp "rating" if you need to use it outside of a table, too.

[Gary Sutherland]

On a related note, I know that induction motors, as found in shapers, can be slowed by gearing, belts, and to some extent by using a VFD.

Routers have universal motors. I suppose originally speed control was voltage reduction? How does this afftect the HP/Torque rating of the router? Is this the method current routers use?

As you can tell, I'm not an electronics person; just curious.

Thanks...

Gary

[Jim Becker]

Gary, the external "speed controls" vary the voltage and it does affect the performance of the router...in some cases there are actually cooling problems. VS routers that you buy today have electronic speed control circuitry that deal with a whole host of things (that a non-engineer like me can't explain clearly) that insure that the motor retains torgue when the speed is dropped as well as keeping things at a constant speed as much as possible. They are also designed to work fine at the lower speeds with concern to cooling the motor.

[aurelio alarcon]

A great deal of thanks to all of you for your advice. I think that I can use all the advice to my advantage...bigger router, table saw to cut off the excess, vertical bits, more passes, variable speed, etc. I can't wait to start using a table!