polyurethane kitchen table problems

[Ray Levasseur]

have just finished building a large harvest kitchen table. Struggling with the poly. Have tried numerous times to spray with HVLP sprayer, only to get stripping. Tried foam brush, had some pooling problems and did not use that much poly. Any suggestions?Sorry ,it is only the top I'm struggling with

[Matt Meiser]

First thing everyone is going to say is to not use poly. That said, I've had really good luck with wipe on.

My technique with wipe on is to pour some in a disposable container I can easily dip a folded rag into. For small projects, I just use high quality paper towels (Scotts brand, available at Lowes) or for bigger projects cotton t-shirt material (also available at Lowes in a bag or box.) I fold the towel flat so that there aren't any raw edges exposed to prevent losing fibers and dip the bottom edge in the poly. When it is pretty well saturated I let the excess drip off and start applying by wiping it on, never reworking an area other than a slight overlap. Don't go back if you miss a spot. I keep the rag pretty wet. It usually takes a few coats to eliminate striping and a few more after that to build some finish.

You can thin the poly you already have to make it into a wipe on. I believe you can use Mineral Spirits, about 50/50 but someone else will have to confirm that.

Of course, another option would be to sand the top back down and go with another product.

[Craig Coney]

Ray, the striping (withhout a photo ) sounds to me like your poly is drying before you get the next swath of spray down. What type of poly are you using and what conditions when you sprayed?

[Ray Levasseur]

Thanks, have tried the wipe on, but did not use a rag ( tried a staining pad). It seem to have a better finish than the wide foam brush as I can now see the small grooves left behind from the brush.The table is stained ebony so any imperfections show up. Also very large surface 115 inches by 50 inches

[Ray Levasseur]

Hi Craig, min wax poly clear satin, approx. 70 degrees ( 20 celsius here in Canada) rear workshop

[Craig Coney]

was it a waterbase or oil base?

[Ray Levasseur]

it was oil based

[Craig Coney]

I would try to add a retarder to the finish to give you additional dry time so the overlapping coats bond with each other and lay down properly. I use primarily WB, so I cannot recommend a specific product for the oil based product.

[Joe Fusco]

Ray,

You might want to add a bit of mineral spirits or turpentine to the poly as well as some BLO. For about a pint of poly add 2 cap fulls of mineral spirits or turpentine and a cap full of BLO.

The mineral spirits or turpentine will give you a longer working window and the BLO will give you a better flow. As with any poly if you are going to rub it out wait about 30 days before doing so.

Good luck.

P.s. use a good brush :D

[Ray Levasseur]

Thanks Joe, excuse my ignorance, what is BLO?

[Joe Fusco]

Boiled Linseed Oil :D

[Scott Holmes]

BLO will change your finish from a wipe-on poly to an oil/varnish blend which will not allow you to build a film finish that will be durable enough to last. Wipe-on varnish is the best answer. Mix your poly 50/50 with MS and wipe Ou want to wipe a thin coat on as quickly and as thin as the kid at the fast food place wipes the table. 2-3 minutes should be plenty. As soon as the first coat is dry-to-the-touch (30-60 mins) wipe another coat. 3 coats per night max.
if you neede to sand do so each day before you start the wiping sequence. 3 wipe on are about the same as 1 properly brushed coat. Thin coats are your friend. For a table that will get normal to heavy use 9 coats or more.

Oh yea I almost forgot... DON'T use poly on tables; it's made for floors. Tables need HARD finishes; poly is tough, not hard.

[Michael Pyron]

from what I'm reading the OP has already started the finish schedule of the table...which means that unless he's willing to strip it and start all over some of the suggestions aren't relevant (though they are good pieces of advice for starting at the beginning)...

I've had the striping issues also using lacquers and what I found is that if I spray cross grain first then immediately go back and spray with the grain the striping issue is solved...just make sure that you don't end up with a wet film thickness that is above the recommendations of the product..

[Ray Levasseur]

Thanks everyone, took Joes advice and cut it with a bit of MS and it worked great with a 4 inch quality brush. Loved your idea Michael of the spraying in 2 directions, will try that in future .Would love to attache a picture, but not sure how.

[Ray Levasseur]

just figured out how to attach

[Michael Donahue]

just figured out how to attach

I love that table!:cool:

[Joe Fusco]

Ray,

Excellent job on both the table and the finish. I'm glad it worked out for you.