an alternative to anchorseal?

[Phil Labowski]

okay, I'm poor so I need to know if I'll regret using this stuff instead of Anchorseal.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Finishing___Wood_Treatment___Woodsealer___woodseal er?Args=

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Phil,

I have used the similar product from WoodCraft. I have never been disappointed by anything I bought from CSUSA.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Looks to be the same water based wax emulsion as anchorseal - so should work great!

[William Bachtel]

Anchor seal is cheaper by the gallon.

[curtis rosche]

sikkens pre-log treatment is cheaper per sqft. so make it has worked on the wood i have tried it on. it covers 400-600sqft, where as anchor seal and others only cover about 100sqft. it runs between 20-30$

[Bernie Weishapl]

Phil I use the stuff and it is fine. I picked some up from CSUSA when I ran out of anchorseal. It works the same.

[Cyril Griesbach]

Same stuff

[Scott Donley]

sikkens pre-log treatment is cheaper per sqft. so make it has worked on the wood i have tried it on. it covers 400-600sqft, where as anchor seal and others only cover about 100sqft. it runs between 20-30$Curtis, After reading the MSDS on this stuff not sure I would want to turn the wood after using it.
http://www.nam.sikkens.com/pdf/log-pretreatment-US.pdf

[Christopher Fletcher]

Curtis, After reading the MSDS on this stuff not sure I would want to turn the wood after using it.
http://www.nam.sikkens.com/pdf/log-pretreatment-US.pdf
Wow! The MSDS is pretty explicit about the health risk associated with inhaling this stuff. I wonder how they can market it to people knowing that they will be producing dust when they cut into it. I suppose they assume you have a really good ventilation system and breather mask. I think I'll stick to my paraffin sealer.

[Jeff Nicol]

Curtis, After reading the MSDS on this stuff not sure I would want to turn the wood after using it.
http://www.nam.sikkens.com/pdf/log-pretreatment-US.pdf
Scott, Thanks for the info on the yucky stuff Curtis has been using! Just because it goes farther does not mean it is better, sounds like pure poison to me!!

Should have on the label "NOT TO BE USED FOR WOODTURNING!!!!"

Jeff

[Scott Donley]

I only posted this as a warning to those that are new to sealing their blanks. Seeing it recommended a few times now by Curtis I thought it best to show the facts then let the turner make up his own mind as to the risk. As far as the marketing goes, I would use it for it's intended purpose, but not turning blanks.

[curtis rosche]

its no worse than some of the finishes you guys use, its now explosive like DNA is, and its less harmful than some of the woods you guys turn. the reason there is so much on the MSDS sheet is because this is normally used for sealing logs homes. and the would be a guy who is constantly spraying it on another house all day long. if you are only sealing the endgrain there wont be that much on you peice of wood, and if it actually cuts the wood when you turn it, the sealer stays on the shaving, unless you sand it or something to make it go in the air.

but i guess every one has their own comfort level of what they feel safe doing

[Jeff Nicol]

its no worse than some of the finishes you guys use, its now explosive like DNA is, and its less harmful than some of the woods you guys turn. the reason there is so much on the MSDS sheet is because this is normally used for sealing logs homes. and the would be a guy who is constantly spraying it on another house all day long. if you are only sealing the endgrain there wont be that much on you peice of wood, and if it actually cuts the wood when you turn it, the sealer stays on the shaving, unless you sand it or something to make it go in the air.

but i guess every one has their own comfort level of what they feel safe doing
Curtis, You seem like you have a big chip on your shoulder! The smart guy stays with the tried and true. There is a reason that it is put on log homes, as it stays where it is and never gets reworked or milled again. I hope you have a good respirator and dust collector, but then again your comfort level is much better as a teenager than guys 25 to 50 years older and much, much wiser. Like I said before you have a lot to learn.

Jeff

[John Fricke]

Curtis,
I'm not trying to be confrontational with you on this but I would ask that you take a moment to look at the big picture. I'm not sure what you pay for your sealer but I will assume you save $4/gallon from the approximate $20/gallon cost of anchor seal. OK divide that $4 by the number of blanks a gallon will coat and you are literally only saving pennies / blank. You are young and have many years of turning ahead of you.....unless you neglect your personal health and safety.
It's nice to save a buck or two and it's nice to find an alternative to the status quo. SOMETIMES IT'S JUST NOT WORTH BUCKING THE SYSTEM HOWEVER!!!!!

[Curt Fuller]

okay, I'm poor so I need to know if I'll regret using this stuff instead of Anchorseal.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Finishing___Wood_Treatment___Woodsealer___woodseal er?Args=

I've used both and I think they're identical, or at least as much as I can tell. I have heard, but don't know for a fact, that anchorseal has something in it that will keep it from going all funky if it freezes. The craftsupplies sealer should be kept from freezing.

[Phil Labowski]

okay fair is fair where is the MSDS sheet for anchor seal? :p

Also Curtis, the MSDS lists different types of hazards. The acute hazards are the ones that are for the infrequent/new users and they are nasty. I do thank you for the tip, but since I have little ones I think I'll stay clear.

Aside from that, you all need to play nice in my threads! lol

[Scott Donley]

okay fair is fair where is the MSDS sheet for anchor seal? :p

You are right :D
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/msds/Anchorseal.pdf

[neil mackay]

Phil,
If your budget is under a bit of a strain.

Then try this, as an easy and low cost sealer. Either use mineral turps, paint thinner, or gasoline to melt styrafoam in to a light treacle consistency [ or into a brushable consistency] and apply it to your blanks. Have been using it for 2-3 years now, works well and gets rid of my regular supply of Styrafoam. :D

[Steve Campbell]

Ok Neil Just to bring up another point. Have you ever looked at the MSDS sheet on our every day common gallon of gasoline. Now there is some stuff that will scare you. I think that the Sikkens is probably better for you, although I wouldn't recommend either.
I use mostly old paint I have let over. I cut my turning blanks as long as I can handle. that way I have a lot fewer end grain surfaces.

Steve

[Christopher Fletcher]

Phil,
If your budget is under a bit of a strain.

Then try this, as an easy and low cost sealer. Either use mineral turps, paint thinner, or gasoline to melt styrafoam in to a light treacle consistency [ or into a brushable consistency] and apply it to your blanks. Have been using it for 2-3 years now, works well and gets rid of my regular supply of Styrafoam. :D

Isn't that napalm?

[curtis rosche]

napalm is jellied gasoline not jellied styrafoam. theres not that much difference though

[Bill Wyko]

Honestly I use a thin coat of titebond II glue. Works great and it's easy on the tools and sanding.:eek:

[Christopher Fletcher]

Honestly I use a thin coat of titebond II glue. Works great and it's easy on the tools and sanding.:eek:

I've tried thin down wood glue and it doesn't help much. Checks still formed.

[Christopher Fletcher]

napalm is jellied gasoline not jellied styrafoam. theres not that much difference though


http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/systems/munitions/napalm.htm:


Modern day napalm uses no Napalm (naphthalene or palmitate) -- instead using a mixture of polystyrene, gasoline and benzene. After the Korean War a safer but equally effective napalm compound was developed. This new formulation is known as "napalm-B", super-napalm, or NP2, and it uses no napalm! Instead, polystyrene and benzene are used as a solvent to solidify the gasoline. This modern napalm is a mixture of benzene (21%), gasoline (33%), and polystyrene (46%). Benzene is a normal component of gasoline (about 2%), while the gasoline used in napalm is the same leaded or unleaded gas that is used in automobiles.

[Curt Fuller]

And one more alternative, if you're still interested, is the shrink wrap film you can buy at most places that sell packaging supplies. It makes for a pretty good seal to keep moisture in when wrapped around the endgrain of logs. However, if you wrap the wood completely it will grow mold in just a short time.

But anchorseal or any of the generic endgrain sealers from woodcraft, craftsupplies, etc. is really the best bang for the buck. By the time you've found a nice piece of wood, taken the time to cut it into blanks, the time and effort you have into it are worth the few pennies extra for a good sealer.

[Jeff Brockett]

You can buy anchorseal direct with free shipping. A five gallon container is $57.00 I usually find a few guys to split the cost and we divide it up in gallon containers.

[curtis rosche]

caught, darn i wanted to see if anyone would catch that

[Cody Colston]

I get my end-grain sealer through the local turning club here. One of the members makes and sells it. It's a WB wax emulsion just like Anchorseal, goes on white and dries clear just like Anchorseal, does a good job of sealing the end grain just like Anchorseal but cost pennies on the dollar compared to Anchorseal. :D

[Jeff Nicol]

I get my end-grain sealer through the local turning club here. One of the members makes and sells it. It's a WB wax emulsion just like Anchorseal, goes on white and dries clear just like Anchorseal, does a good job of sealing the end grain just like Anchorseal but cost pennies on the dollar compared to Anchorseal. :D
Cody, So what is the recipe for the making of his sealer? we should all know that one! Will he share? I have been playing with doing it too just have not come up with the best combo yet.

Jeff

[Cody Colston]

His recipe is being held close for now. I've been working on finding it out. If I do, I will definitely share with y'all. :D

[neil mackay]

Yep, Napalm can be a hazard,but then many things are in life.
I dont use gasoline much if ever, prefer to use paint thinners and mix as I go. No more than say 1/4-1/2 pint at a time.
Alot of such products as Anchorseal available in the US are difficult to obtain down under.