Quality Grinding Extension & Mustard Monster

[Doug Shepard]

I've still got more work to do on the cabinet (like building drawers and a door for the router space) and some work to hook up the router fence as well as it's DC hookup, but I finally got this beastie usable and the saw is again available. I got the extension back in January and got the saw moved onto a longer mobile base. Then I purchased the ply to make the cabinet in February and a week later I broke my hip so this project sat for a few months. I need the space that my dedicated router table is using so decided to go this route to condense things a bit.
I went 2" longer than the original factory extension since the fence tube is still projecting out a bit further anyway. Makes for a deeper reach into the router, but I think the double miter slots work out better with the extra length.

The bottom 2 front facing cubby holes are for the TS fence when not in use (I got tired of just lying it on the floor) and the router fence.
I picked up the power switch from Rockler. I think I got the DC quick connect port from PSI (?). I bought it a while ago but didn't end up using it on the project I bought it for. The dust hood was a 12x12 setup intended for use under a contractor saw but I shrunk it down to about 10.5x10.5 and mounted it sideways behind the router and pointing to the back. I picked up a Kreg M3 kit for this and another cabinet and gave it a pretty good workout.

Now I just gotta abuse the extension some so it gets the same patina and matches the left hand side.:D
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[Chris Padilla]

Nice clean setup you have for your TS there, Doug! Very nicely done.

[Jim Foster]

Is the router table a purchased unit? If so, which one?

Regards

[Bruce Page]

1st Class!

[Mark Carlson]

Very nice. I like the miter slots on both sides. Judging by the location of the on/off switch you route from the side or the back.

Does your PRL slip in easily or is it really really tight? I sometimes switch out my PRL for a PC-121 spindle sander and its a bear to get it out even after sanding a few thousands off the edges of my PRL. The ball detents are not adjustable on the PRL V1 and they make the fit too tight.

~mark

[Dan Lee]

Sweet setup

[Doug Shepard]

Is the router table a purchased unit? If so, which one?

Regards
The extension was from Quality Grinding
http://www.qualitygrinding.com/
They did have a sub-forum here in the Manufacturers section but like a lot of companies I suspect they're trying to keep costs down until the economy picks up.


Very nice. I like the miter slots on both sides. Judging by the location of the on/off switch you route from the side or the back.

Well I wanted the option anyway of not reaching over the saw table at least for smaller stuff. With 2 sides to go from the power switch is in the wrong location for one of them but I plan on picking up a footswitch for use when I'm feeding from the front of the saw.

Does your PRL slip in easily or is it really really tight? I sometimes switch out my PRL for a PC-121 spindle sander and its a bear to get it out even after sanding a few thousands off the edges of my PRL. The ball detents are not adjustable on the PRL V1 and they make the fit too tight.

I read earlier posts (quite possibly yours) about the tight fit and asked QG to make sure I could lift mine in and out without a hassle. I had to remove the side spring loaded balls on the PRL (it wont go in with them in) but it fits like a glove. No slop but I can lift it out if I take the red clearance ring out and lift around the hole.


~mark

[Mark Carlson]

Hi Doug,

Removing the detents should fix my problem. How did you remove them? It wasn't obvious to me how they could be removed so I left them alone. Thanks.

~mark

[Doug Shepard]

Mark
Assuming your PRL and mine are the same vintage, you just need to keep unscrewing the allen screw adjusters on the side edge until the screw is completely out. Then the metal piece (it's not actually a ball but a small machined piece) should fall right out. The spring behind it may still stay in the hole so you might need to tip the plate up and slap it to get it out.

[Mark Carlson]

Thanks for the info.


Mark
Assuming your PRL and mine are the same vintage, you just need to keep unscrewing the allen screw adjusters on the side edge until the screw is completely out. Then the metal piece (it's not actually a ball but a small machined piece) should fall right out. The spring behind it may still stay in the hole so you might need to tip the plate up and slap it to get it out.

[Gary Muto]

Nice set-up and well done. I like the paint job too.

[Brian W Evans]

That's one nice setup you have there. I'll need to buy a new router table setup at some point and yours is one I will look at again when I start my planning.

Would you be willing to let us know how much you paid for the router table (just the piece from Quality Grinding)?

[Greg Cole]

Sawwwweeeeeet set up there Scruffy....errrr Doug. :rolleyes:

[Mark Carlson]

I can tell you how much I paid for something similar from Quality Grinding. It was $329 which included shipping for a 24x28 extension. Same router lift but with 1 t-slot.

~mark


That's one nice setup you have there. I'll need to buy a new router table setup at some point and yours is one I will look at again when I start my planning.

Would you be willing to let us know how much you paid for the router table (just the piece from Quality Grinding)?

[Doug Shepard]

Brian
I haven't been able to find the invoice and I'm not sure I got a quote in writing from Chris @ QG. I think he gave the price on the phone after looking over the SU file I sent him. It was 4-something but I can't recall how much exactly. I had a slightly bigger top than Marks (26x28 instead of 24x28) plus the 2nd T-slot. I also had vague plans of putting a dust cabinet ala Woodpeckers underneath the central portion and thought I'd need some way to bolt it to the bottom of the extension. So I also asked for some 1/4-20 threaded holes in certain places underneath. After talking with Chris I reduced the number of those down to 5. Those were done with big diameter (mayber 2" ?) bar stock and welded under the top. To my later discovery, they goofed the size and gave me 3/8" holes but it worked out to my benefit anyway. So I had a bit more in mine than Mark's.

It turns out that I didn't use those bolt holes for the original intent. What I ended up doing was planning the top of the cabinet short of those holes, enough so that I could run bolts all the way in and still slide the cabinet in frrom the end. Then reaching through the router plate opening with an open end wrench, I could turn them back out until they contacted the cabinet top then use them to help level and support the top. I wish I could claim some genius planning but they just sort of accidently worked out extrremely well to get the top level.

[Peter Quinn]

Doug, all I can say is:
Sweet.

Ever consider a flame job or a tiger print?:D

[Doug Shepard]

...
Ever consider a flame job or a tiger print?:D

I just asked for a quart of Butt-Ugly-Yellow at the paint store, and it managed to perfectly match the PM color. Hooda-thunk?:D

[Brian W Evans]

Mark & Doug,

Thanks for the pricing info. The QG tables at those prices are an incredible value when compared with those from other manufacturers.

Congrats again on a great setup.

[David Keller NC]

Ha! The mustard monster - I like it!

[Doug Shepard]

Got a couple more things done on my TS redux. I've been wanting to replace the fence faces for a while so with some phenolic ply, T-track, Cross dowels, connector bolts, and epoxy I set about trying to duplicate the factory UHMW face attachment method. I didn't much like the idea of drilling additional holes into the fence to mount this. There were after all 16 perfectly good holes in the fence if I could figure out how to use them.

Here's a side-by-side of the old & new faces
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With the attaching bolts inserted
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And one side installed
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Cross dowels on the underside of the middle T-track portion
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Connector bolts into the cross dowels
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[Doug Shepard]

Why dont they make phenolic ply in mustard anyway?:D
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[Doug Shepard]

Next up was the router fence which is from Woodhaven. I ran into an issue though that forced me to modify the attaching scheme to the TS fence though. The stock arrangement is to use 2 brackets that attach to the base and use clamps to hold the brackets to the TS fence. The DC port is also set at an angle. Between the brackets and protruding hose, the router fence needs 2-3" of space. (Bruce page has pics of an earlier vintage version of this on this post http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=984498&postcount=11 )

That's absolutely no problem if (looking from the front) I have from left to right - TS fence, Router fence, Router lift. There's more than enough room. However, if I want to do any edge routing on larger panels and take advantage of the TS support, I really need that 2-3" back in order to clear the router bit opening. I dont have enough fence rail to go any further. So I did some router fence surgery and came up with something that lets me get the base of the fence right up against the TS fence.
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Clamped on to the TS fence
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About as far as I can go on the right
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But I've got clearance to the bit opening now
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Still need to rig up flex hose and connectors for the DC then get the drawers on the cabinet going.

[Doug Shepard]

I've had this done for a while but temps were starting to head south so it looks like a coat of mustard on the drawer faces will have to wait until spring. To cold in the GaShop for now. A piece of 1/2" see-through sumthin for the router space and black nylon knobs/pulls from LV.
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Full extension slides on the bottom 2 wide drawers
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and maple drawer runners for the top narrow ones
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