Mead portfolio "man-made materal" laser engravable?

[Garrett Nors]

I bought a Mead "PadFolio" from Walmart ($15). The label says it's made of "man-made materials." I emailed Mead and asked them if there was any chloride in the material and they never responded.

Does anyone know if this material is laser engravable? I know I'm not supposed to do vinyl or PVC materials because of the chloride in it.

Here's one similar:
http://www.mead.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product3_10051_10006_121955_-1_false_10051##

[Dave Marshall]

Garrett,

try this test on an inconspicuous area:

http://vimeo.com/1615418?pg=embed&sec=1615418

[Mike DeRegnaucourt]

Check out the following document, it identifies some tests in helping to identify which type of polymer you are dealing with prior to engraving/cutting.

http://www.chymist.com/Polymer%20Identification.pdf

Hope this helps too. :)

[Dave Johnson29]

I bought a Mead "PadFolio" from Walmart ($15). The label says it's made of "man-made materials." I emailed Mead and asked them if there was any chloride in the material and they never responded.


Garret,

Almost certainly PVC and you know what the "C" stands for. :)

However, and this will no doubt spin up the nay say-ers in droves, the Hydrogen Chloride will mix with moisture in the atmosphere or water (if present) and create a weak Hydrochloric Acid solution.

The amounts of gas given off when marking the padfolio will be tiny and as long as you have a good exhaust system it should no harm.

Ducking and running I am donning the hazmat suit with Proban underwear.
:D:D

[Richard Rumancik]

Garrett: If you laser it and it turns goldish/or orange-brown, it is likely PVC. If it has PVC in it, whether or not you should laser it is up to you. I agree with Dave; if you have air assist and proper exhaust it will work fine. There is a big difference between marking and cutting PVC.

You need to use proper precautions and ensure all the parts in the exhaust path are properly cleaned after the job. (You might add a bit of baking soda to the water when you wipe it down.) And of course, keep your nose out of the exhaust/cabinet.

If it is a "foamy" material you have to be careful about the power level so you don't overheat the material. Use the minimum energy density that you can get away with (and still make a contrasting mark.) You might find that after wiping/cleaning the mark it is more of a grey than gold (especially on black.) You need to check that the customer is satisfied with the contrast as the mark might not jump out. You will likely need to sacrifice one piece to do your testing and get the right settings.

CO2 lasers are used to mark legends on the PVC insulation of wire to identify them. (But keep this to yourself, as everyone knows that doing so will destroy the laser as well as your health.)

http://www.synrad.com/e-newsletters/02_05_09.htm (http://www.synrad.com/e-newsletters/02_05_09.htm)

[art baylor]

10 to 1, PVC, although it could be polyurethane (also called pleather).
Art

[Garrett Nors]

Thank you guys for your help. I have decided against messing with it since the customer I was demoing it for decided to back out and go with a diploma cover type thing, it's leather so I have no worries ;)

[Dave Johnson29]

it's leather so I have no worries ;)

Er don't be too hasty there Garret. Some white leathers and other light colored leathers use much more toxic stuff during the tanning and dying process.

Dyed white leather can contain Chromium Cyanide, now THAT's a poison. :eek:

[Garrett Nors]

Er don't be too hasty there Garret. Some white leathers and other light colored leathers use much more toxic stuff during the tanning and dying process.

Dyed white leather can contain Chromium Cyanide, now THAT's a poison. :eek:

I have heard that, that's why I stay away from colored leathers...I try to get genuine leathers that haven't been heavily dyed.