Jointer regrind or buy new one?

[Robert Johnson spfg]

I just purchased a used 6" jointer (G0654) that had only seen a couple of boards in its life. The guy I bought it from had is sitting in his garage next to his water softener so it had a few rust spots on the end of the infeed table. When I got it home it I decided to remove the rust with some Boeshield Rust Free.

Unfortunatley, the Rust Free removed the rust and then some. Some of the rust spots were hard to remove so I rubbed pretty hard with a scour pad. After I finished I thought to myself, if it's removing the rust then it may be removing some of the table. I don't have a good straightedge yet but I checked in on a cheap straightedge and it appears that where I scrubbed vigoursly there are slight dips at the end of the bed.

Also, I lightly cleaned the rest of the table with Rust Free and the cast iron is now stained.

In my mind I now have three options:

1) Resell the jointer on craigslist at a loss and chalk it up to a life experience and go buy a new jointer with a shiny new bed.

2) Get the tables reground at a machine shop. I've only heard about this service but am not really sure how it works or how much it would cost. I would probably want to regrind all surfaces so they all look the same. I'm a little worried how I would recalibrate the jointer after getting the surface reground also.

3) Don't worry about it an just live with the jointer as is. Any advice on removing the Rust Free stains would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Robert Johnson
Springfield MO

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_CEOLTHeHFBI/Skga85GheDI/AAAAAAAAAv4/3qGrhWtUN2Q/s400/jointer2.jpg

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_CEOLTHeHFBI/Skga8gptheI/AAAAAAAAAv0/RYceHrouadY/s400/jointer1.jpg

[Ron Jones near Indy]

#3--unless it proves to be a problem; I doubt it will.

[Jacob Mac]

The boeshield rust free stuff can be nasty. Is that what you used?

Regardless, my vote is that you use it and see if it is a problem. My guess is that it will perform just fine.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Unless you are going to be jointing some boards that are narrow enough, and short enough to "fall into rust spots", don't worry about it. Seriously, go enjoy your new (to you) jointer. I've seen a lot worse that produced clean boards.

[Pete Bradley]

Aw geez, just put a light coat of wax on the table and run the thing.

Pete

[Robert Johnson spfg]

The boeshield rust free stuff can be nasty. Is that what you used?

Regardless, my vote is that you use it and see if it is a problem. My guess is that it will perform just fine.


Yes, it was boeshield rust free. I know now not to use it again on cast iron tables. Or at least not to leave it on too long or clean with much pressure.

I'm leaning to #3 as well. I'm just starting out in woodworking so it should serve me well while I learn. I'm just kicking myself a little though.

[Robert Johnson spfg]

Aw geez, just put a light coat of wax on the table and run the thing.

Pete

That's good advice. I've already got the T-9 and Johnson's on it.

[Mike Heidrick]

Welcome.

Take a sray bottle (not the pump bottle it comes in - a $1 one from the grocery store) and mist spray some of the rust free on and wipe it off with blue paper towles after just a few seconds to remove the black. Get out the johnsons furniture paste wax and reapply a good coat. It should take care of the black.

I am finding it hard to believe anything you can scour out with a scratch pad will affect any of your precision work on a 6" Griz jointer. If you have precision problems it will not be from the scouring you did - rather tables from the factory came that way.

Best test is with wood and not a cheap straight edge. I vote #3 and get using it.

T-9 makes it tacky so I just use the wax on the beds.

[Robert Johnson spfg]

Welcome.

Take a sray bottle (not the pump bottle it comes in - a $1 one from the grocery store) and mist spray some of the rust free on and wipe it off with blue paper towles after just a few seconds to remove the black. Get out the johnsons furniture paste wax and reapply a good coat. It should take care of the black.


Thanks for the advice. I'll try that with a spray bottle.

[glenn bradley]

Yes, it was boeshield rust free. I know now not to use it again on cast iron tables.

I use rust free to remove dark spots or other marks on cast iron whenever needed. The directions to leave it set 30 - 60 seconds is pretty severe. I get a good even surface if I spray and start wiping right away; more like I'm cleaning windows than cast iron.

I don't see that the marks will cause you trouble. I would hold judgment as to whether the dips that you see were there before or not. You would have to do something pretty extreme to work a valley into a jointer bed. I doubt it was your efforts :).

P.s. you'll want the straight edge anyway; new jointer or not, so I'd get that and re-check before I gave up on the machine.

[Robert Johnson spfg]

I use rust free to remove dark spots or other marks on cast iron whenever needed. The directions to leave it set 30 - 60 seconds is pretty severe. I get a good even surface if I spray and start wiping right away; more like I'm cleaning windows than cast iron.

I don't see that the marks will cause you trouble. I would hold judgment as to whether the dips that you see were there before or not. You would have to do something pretty extreme to work a valley into a jointer bed. I doubt it was your efforts :).

P.s. you'll want the straight edge anyway; new jointer or not, so I'd get that and re-check before I gave up on the machine.

Thanks for the advice and reassuring words. Yeah, the straightedge is next on my list. I thought about buying one from Lee Valley. It's expensive getting into woodworking but I'm having a lot of fun!

[Paul Atkins]

After you set a cup of coffee on it a few times and put a newly glued up panel on it and some wet walnut shaving fly off your lathe you won't be able to find the spots. Might take a couple of years though.

[Matt Armstrong]

Just bondo it


no, don't do that. just use it. whatever.

[Mike Heidrick]

Thanks for the advice and reassuring words. Yeah, the straightedge is next on my list. I thought about buying one from Lee Valley. It's expensive getting into woodworking but I'm having a lot of fun!


Do yourself a favor - Just wait and only buy good tools from now on. One day you will look around and your shop will be better than the dream shops you read about - all because you bought the best tools right from the beginning.

That Lee Valley steel 36" straight edge is AWESOME.

[Mark Versprille]

On a similar note. I bought a 1950's Delta Milwaukee 6" jointer on CL for $130. It took three tries and four plus hours to get it cleaned up and the blades and tables set up. It's cutting smooth as a babies bottom and I'm practicing on some scrap yellow pine when I find the head of a dry wall screw. Damn i feel dumb. It's not too deep a scallop in the blades, but it's close to 3/8" wide.