B.o.s.s.

[Carl Eyman]

Questions for those of you that have used these tools: I am trying to complete a batch of 10 backsplats as seen in the picture. Sanding the edges of the pierced portions is a chore. Would a BOSS help me? Question 2 should I use the PC portable, the Delta table model, or the Jet table.? By way of answering my own question I notice the hand held model has a minimum 3/4" diam spindle which limits its access too much. The Delta has 1/2" min diam and the Jet 1/4". This would seem to favor the Jet, but I'm afraid the 1/4" spindle would give me too much scalloping. Any thoughts gratefully received.

[Joe Tonich]

Have you tried the sanding belts/strips that go on your scroll saw? They sand without gouging(?) the sides. If your not real careful with the BOSS, those small dia. sanding spindles can screw up an edge FAST!! DAMHIKT :( If you do get a Oss. Sander, I have the BOSS and I like it.

Joe

[Scott Coffelt]

I have the Jet and like it because of the fact I can get the smaller sizes. It would help quite a bit, it will take off material rather quickly, so you need to be careful on the pressure. If you leave it one spot it will dig in so you have to keep it moving. There is still areas that need to be finished up by hand or smaller sanding tools.

[Carl Eyman]

I think you have convinced me not to get one (oss). I have already used the sanding belts that go on the scroll saw. since I'm going th have to round over the hard corners anyway - a hand operation - I guess I'll do the rest by hand. See you a few weeks down the road.

[David Rose]

post, but if you do it agaiin, it might help.

I am doing more pattern routing and less sanding. After doing both on my wife's bench, the pattern routing wins hands down. With a good hardboard pattern, there is almost no sanding to do.

I think any of the rotating sanding drum tools would be too aggressive.

David

[Carl Eyman]

I think I know what you mean by pattern routing, but do you think even a 1/8" bit would get those curves crisp enough? I am interested in any such technique, because I only have five of the ten cut out. Would you go with a male pattern? That is have your pattern define the area you are cutting out? Another consideration is that these backsplats a bowed. That is convex as looked at from the from of the chair. Would that affect your technique? Glad to have your opinions.

[David Rose]

it seems to have gotten eaten someway.

Keep in mind that I really am not much more than a beginner. I know how I would try this, but it might not work or be the best way.

Now that the disclaimer is out of the way, here is my take on it. No, I don't think even a small bit would get into the tight spots. You would still have some cleanup. In fact, I would likely use a pattern bit with bearing which would make for a larger size.

I'm not sure if it is male or female, but I always try to use a pattern which protects the area I don't want to cut. In other words, I would make the pattern like the original. A "bobble" just leaves a spot to clean up with another pass.

With the backsplat bowed, I don't know if I would be able to cut a smooth cut vertically with a standard router. A trim router would probably do better, but I don't have one so this is just a guess. I have not used anything thinner than 1/4" hardboard for a pattern. If it won't bend enough, thinner might be better. If it is a "compound" bow in two directions, I have a lot of doubts about any of this helping.

The time trade off to make the pattern might not be worth it, but I think I would try it.

David

[Rob Glynn]

Down here we train termites to do that sort of work for us.