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View Full Version : New Grizzly 17" band saw: Pros and Cons



Art Bianconi
06-27-2009, 11:56 AM
The new saw is finally assembled. The most difficult part was attaching the machined cast iron table. It's almost impossible to do alone and perhaps even risky.

It's a heavy device and I found it a real challenge to hold the table and adjust it's position with one hand while attempting to start the fasteners in the threads with the other. Prudent users will ask someone for help.

There is no lighting anywhere, for anything. I fixed that quickly enough for under $30. There is a seperate string on that subject in this forum and I will return to that string in the future when I've figured out how to illuminate the blade at the cut,

The base I also ordered from Grizzly and turns out to be the "Base from Hell".

It's not made for this saw but is a universal base that one adjusts to fit the footprint of the intended application. The adjusting holes are on one inch centers so there is a substantial gap around the base. The limited adjustments make for a poor fit to the base of this saw.

Four corner plates about 1/16 to 1/18" thick are welded to the frame. They are butt welded on only two edges; the remaining part of the plate is unsupported and cantilevered out into space. The entire weight of the saw rests on these four plates!

I was immediately concerned about their ability to hold up over time without failing.

Getting the saw up and onto the wheeled base was a challenge and made more so by the fact that I installed it 180 degrees to what I needed. Only one pair of wheels caster so directional control is limited. It took 30 minutes working alone to muscle the saw around without hurting myself or the saw.

With the saw in place in the base and positioned, I screwed down the two floor jacks to lock it in place. I then went to cut something. That's when I saw that the base lacks the torsional rigidity needed. A slight push on the saw and it started rocking. It went through 5 cycles before the energy was dampened out and it came to rest. I got down on my hands and knees and made sure that the wheels and jacks were all firmly against the cement floor. They were.

When the base first arrived I concluded that I could not build such a device for $65, Now that I've used it, I've concluded that I would not build such a device at any price!

One more reason for saying this is that the four "shelves" that the wheels attach to have 90 degree sharp corners that stick out four inches out from each end of the base at ankle height.

You hit your shin with that and the world will know you speak two languages!

I'm not certain I can return it as I've tossed the packaging it came in. I'm shopping for a new TIG welder so I might use it as an excuse to "repair" the base.

The other alternative is to build up a wood base of my own design. It's easy enough to do; I simply don't have the discretionary time.

The base of the saw is a substantial weldment. It's essentially a five sided box, open at the bottom and
appears to be made up from 1/4 steel plate. The saw frame is welded to the top of the box.

Because it's hollow and rather deep (4?) it means perhaps building up a solid wood insert that will fill the inside of the box completely. There are four existing bolt holes, one in each corner of the base, that were used to secure the saw to the shipping pallet.

Between building such a device and repairing the purchased base I am inclined to run a few 2 x 6's through the planer and making one myself. Tipping a six foot tall, 300 pound saw over on it's side should be fun!

Art

Frank Trinkle
06-27-2009, 12:03 PM
I feel your pain! I have the same base on my 514X2 and I'm not at all happy with it.

If you install the wrong way (as I did the first time) the lower wheel cabinet door will not open. Had to muscle around myself to swap position and like you, I am extremely concerned about it tipping while moving. It also required wood shims to set it securely in the base due to the bolt positions not allowing a flush fit.

I have YET to find a universal mobile base that is worth paying money for. I am tempted to go into R&D and design a mobile base that would overcome all the deficiencies and negatives of virtually every other mobile base on the market.

Happy as hell with my 514X2... but not at all with the mobile base.

glenn bradley
06-27-2009, 12:45 PM
I also have that base and know that MANY posts here have warned against it including mine. It came with my saw or I would not own it. I doubled 3/4" ply with a tight fit into the base and attached the saw to that; better but probably only in my mind :D. Love the saw.

P.s. I got the saw from a member here who had made his own steel bases for his TS and jointer. He offered to make me one for the BS at a good price and I kick myself for not taking him up on it. His bases were great.

Cary Falk
06-27-2009, 1:29 PM
Here is what I did with mine. a couple of pieces of 1x2 steel and 4 double locking casters from Woodcraft. I am very happy with the results. There is no vibration when I use the saw. I actually like the added height it gives to the table.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/DSC_0424.jpg

Art Bianconi
06-28-2009, 8:43 AM
Cary, might you please give us a sketch or some photos from different angles so we better understand what you did?

Thanks

Art

Pat Germain
06-28-2009, 11:51 AM
My Grizzly 17" band saw sits on a JET universal mobil base. With a piece of MDF on the bottom and four bolts holding it all together, it's rock solid. I'm very happy with that mobil base.

Cary Falk
06-28-2009, 12:05 PM
Cary, might you please give us a sketch or some photos from different angles so we better understand what you did?

Thanks

Art

Art,
It is 2 separate pieces of steel tube. One on each side bolted to the bottom of the bandsaw through the existing holes.. I drilled a hole in each end of the tube and inserted the casters.

Frank Trinkle
06-28-2009, 12:18 PM
Wow... nice and simple! Gotta do that because the Universal really really sucks and is probably dangerous as well.

So... no crossbar though? Guess it's not needed....

Also... any chance you could shoot a couple of closeups of your creation??

Cary Falk
06-28-2009, 1:06 PM
Wow... nice and simple! Gotta do that because the Universal really really sucks and is probably dangerous as well.

So... no crossbar though? Guess it's not needed....

Also... any chance you could shoot a couple of closeups of your creation??

If I see I need to add a crossbar for support, I will weld one in place to support the base. It has been about a year and it seems to be fine.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/DSC_0189.jpg
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/DSC_0190.jpg
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/DSC_0191.jpg
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/DSC_0192-1.jpg

Art Bianconi
06-28-2009, 9:59 PM
Thanks Cary!

I've chosen to build up a platform made up from 2 x 4's that will fit directly inside the base. That way I can keep the wheels under the machine and leave just enough of them exposed that I can reach the wheel locks.

I'll model the design in my engineering software and post some images and PDF's of the drawings.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this string.

Art

Pete Hay
06-28-2009, 10:30 PM
Excellent design and execution, Cary. Simple, inexpensive, and 100% functional.

Mr. Jeff Smith
06-28-2009, 11:59 PM
Just got the G0513X this past weekend myself. I had read the poor reviews of the shopfox base on Amazon so I settled on one by HTC instead:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002262M/ref=ox_ya_oh_product

Quality seems pretty good and everything works fine for me. Might be a better option to check out for someone looking for an out of the box solution.

Art Bianconi
06-29-2009, 9:00 PM
A representative from Grizzly called this evening. He gave me a return authorization number and a shipping address and asked me to package the base as best I can.

UPS will pick it up tomorrow or Wednesday and return it to Grizzly at their expense.

A full credit will be made to my account

I'm pleased. It was a no hassle dialogue. It means fighting the saw alone again to uninstall it but that is far better than the alternatives.

This sort of treatment and their commitment to make things right says a lot about the company.

I've already started designing a replacement. When it's finished, installed and has proven itself, I'll create some dimensioned drawings in a PDF format and upload them and some images here.

It's "Miller Time"

Art

Russ Massery
06-29-2009, 9:20 PM
Here's my solution I didn't like the universal mobile I was using.http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=114407&highlight=G0513X+talk

Art Bianconi
07-05-2009, 2:46 AM
Russ wrote: ". . . to my surprise I found that they spot welded a stiffener runs from front to back. About 5 1/2" from both sides."

When you consider the size of the top plate of the base, and the weight it must hold up under, it makes sense that Grizzly would add a stiffening rib to bolster that top plate.

Like you, I assumed an open space and did not consider the possibility of a stiffener when I designed my base. I've have been modeling the design of the geometry without benefit of having looked underneath. I suspect I have to change it to seperate halves as shown but oriented the other way. This design is built up from 1 x 6 white pine.

I'll go take a peek; then I'll adjust my design accordingly.

Thanks for the "heads up"

Art

Mike Lipke
07-05-2009, 9:31 AM
Instead of making a base, you can install a set of 4 Great Lakes Casters.
I have a set, and they are great. They mount in the holes located on each corner of the BS, so no base is required. They have a pad that screws down to the floor that lifts the casters about a 1/4 off the surface, so that the BS is rock solid, something that I could never acheive with the ones from WoodCraft.

http://www.greatlakescaster.com/great_lakes_caster___swivel_caster_with_stabilizer _leg___175_stabilizing_casters_with_a_220lbs_capac ity_in_motion_and_a_550lbs_capacity_when_the_stabi lizer_leg_in_extended-LV-1710-NYP-S-M12.php

Mike Lipke
07-05-2009, 9:34 AM
Don't think I did the Great Lakes Link correctly, but the model number is
LV-1710-NYP-S-M12.
You shouldn't have any trouble googling them.