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View Full Version : Deft Brushing Lacquer help?



Nathan Conner
06-24-2009, 8:39 AM
So, I'm working on a 4' x 6' bookmatched/figured Myrtle tabletop to be a bar in our kitchen. Wood selection was a long process, prep, glue-up, hand planing, scraping and sanding was an even longer process.

I put a stain on it we thought we'd like, but it turned out notsomuch. I removed it with more sanding, and more careful sanding, as I'd missed some swirl marks. Finish was clean and perfect before I got started.

Now, I've got one coat of BLO on it, it's dry, and last night I started with the first two brushing (new Purdy brush) applications of a year-old can of Deft Satin Clear brushing lacquer. First coat looked...well...like any first coat would. I followed the directions closely and applied the second coat in two hours - that's where the trouble started. I had lightly sanded with 400 after the first coat to smooth it out, which worked, but I gummed up the paper because it was so soft, still. It was fine before I started the second coat, though.

But about 4 strokes into the second coat, I started to get a LOT of brush drag and ridges almost immediately. I'm not too handy with a brush, but have had luck with this stuff in the past on boxes, end tables, and even a Morris Chair. With this much real estate, though, I found it really tough to apply - I kept being tempted to back-brush or remove the ridges, and thought, "Naah, they'll lay down. Relax"

SO I go out this morning, and they didn't. In fact, they look worse. MUCH worse. The "finish" looks like it was put down by a blind monkey with a rock.

What do I do next? Can I go after it with 220 or 320 and a long block and try to remove ridges? Can I thin it some with lacquer thinner and put down some lighter coats? (I like both of those options, but wonder why I shouldn't?) Do I just keep slogging through the next couple of coats and assume it will look ok?

It's REALLY thick and difficult to work. There's no "flow" at all. The instructions say something like, "This product must not be thinned or sprayed" - both of which I wish I'd have done. It's too thick, and too hard to get on smoothly. I don't know if it's too old, or if my rock wasn't the right type of application rock.

TIA for any advice. I'll be sad to sand this thing off once more. I thought I'd be saving time by using the quick drying Deft, but now I've got mid-finish-panic.

jerry nazard
06-24-2009, 10:32 AM
Before doing anything else, I would thin it and try some on a test piece. It is my understanding that the "do not thin or spray" warning on the label satisfies some government VOC regulation (or some such Dumbo-jumbo). Best of luck! -Jerry

Howard Acheson
06-24-2009, 11:12 AM
It's my opinion that lacquer was never intended to be brushed on. It's most frequent and successful use is as spray finish. To make it into a brushing finish, lots of retarder chemicals are mixed it. It tends to not want to flow out smoothly. Added to this is the current emphasis on VOC's in many states. Finish manufacturers are re-formulating their produces to comply. This is the reason that today's oil and chemical based finishes carry warnings "not to thin". Adding thinners and solvents would increase the VOC emissions beyond what the manufacturers are allowed. With many finishes, the reduction of thinners and the re-formulation makes for a finish that is difficult to apply.

As a small user, you can certainly thin the product if you think that will assist in solving your problem. However, for larger, flat surfaces, I would not consider brushing on a lacquer. It dries too fast and does not flow out well. If you have the capability, spray the finish. Or, choose a different finish.

In my opinion, I would not consider lacquer for a bar. Lacquer is a nice finish but it's easily scratched and it does not stand up that well to water, alcohol and cleaning chemicals. A much better choice is a good, non-poly varnish. The varnish can be either brushed or wiped on. Good choices are Waterlox Original Gloss or Satin or Behlen Rockhard. Both are hard, durable finishes that stand up well to moisture and chemicals. At this point you can leave the lacquer you applied. Let it dry for 3-4 days and then sand it flat with 220 paper on a sanding pad. Then, apply three or four coats of the varnish.

Scott Holmes
06-24-2009, 11:23 AM
Well I was typing a response when I saw Howie's answer...

DITTO what Howie said...

Next time you may want to apply a seal coat of dewaxed shellac between the BLO and the clearcoat. Shellac will stick to teflon. Most finisishe s have no problem sticking to de-waxed shellac.