Has anyone built a jig for ripping with a jigsaw?

[Louis Brandt]

Hello,

I need to “rip” some 1/4 inch thick wainscoting panels. These are each about four inches wide and about thirty inches long. As I install them onto my wall, when I get to an end, I will need to rip any of them that are too wide to fit the remaining distance. And the amount to rip won’t be the same for each one.

I don’t have a table saw, so the only tool that seems to fit the bill would be a jigsaw. But it isn’t easy to clamp everything together (straight edge, piece to be ripped, etc.), and still leave enough room for the base of the jigsaw to ride along the straight edge.

I’ve been fooling around with some ideas of how to build an appropriate jig for this, but so far, I haven’t built anything that I’m pleased with.

I’m wondering whether any of you have encountered a similar situation and whether you’ve built a jig to do this, and if so, can do briefly explain how you did it? I know that this sounds rather simple, but to me, it isn’t that easy.

Thanks,
Louis

[glenn bradley]

You don't mention what type of jigsaw. Most upper end saws have guides available. Here's a fancy one: http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Bosch-2602317031-55-Jigsaw-Guide-Rail/84050/Cat/1453?utm_medium=referral&utm_source=googlebase&cvsfa=63&cvsfe=2&cvsfp=84050

But this is more what I would use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223G8/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=304485901&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000VC5U5C&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0TR1913Q2JZCM95YC9XS

[Chuck Saunders]

For as straight as a jigsaw cuts, I would suggest strike a line and cut.

[Louis Brandt]

It's a Black & Decker, variable speed. It's not the Bosch 1590 or 1591 (wish it was).
Louis

[Bill Huber]

For as straight as a jigsaw cuts, I would suggest strike a line and cut.

I don't know what saw you have or blades you use on it but I will have to say I was really surprised at how well mine does with a straight edge. I have a Bosch saw and use their blades and it cut a very straight line.

My old saw couldn't cut a straight line for nothing.

[Myk Rian]

Make a wider base out of MDF for it. That will help when using the straightedge. More base area.

[david kramer]

Back in the days before I had a table saw I did this all the time on my router table. The trick I learned from Hilton's router book was to buy a lexan remnant the same thickness as the plate on the router table. Using a flush trim bit, route it to the same dimensions as the plate. Then screw it to your jig saw (drilling a hole for the bit of course), turn it upside down and drop it into your router table. Voila, a very cheap table/band saw referenced off the router table's fence.

The cuts aren't pretty, particularly if you're cutting something thickish because the blade flexes. But I think that the whole setup cost me $1. Of course, you need a router table for this.

David

[Dave Wagner]

I usually just clamp a piece of 1x4 to the board as a straight edge for the saw to guide against.

[Mike Heidrick]

Make a make shift table, drill small hole through top, mount jigsaw underneath upside down, and clamp a straight edged board for the widths you need. Woodpecker at one time made a plate for jigsaws that fit their router table openings.

[Jim Heffner]

You can use any good straight edge as a guide. A good piece of alunimum angle metal longer the workpiece clamped down with a couple of c clamps
works real well. It can also be used with a circular saw if needed. All the things can be bought at a hardware store or home center for a few dollars.Making a jig for something like you mentioned would take more time and effort to get it right than using the method I just described.

[harry strasil]

FWIW, I keep a small scrap piece of 1/4 plywood, that I have clamped, butted up against a straight edge, then making short cuts with my hand held circular saw, jig saw and the 2 different routers I use with a V point bit,to make a cut just deep enough to score the wood for a center line, then I use that to line up the cutting distance when using my straight edge, takes the measuring and often guess work out of it and on saws also shows both sides of the cut.

[Jeff Dege]

Back in the days before I had a table saw I did this all the time on my router table. The trick I learned from Hilton's router book was to buy a lexan remnant the same thickness as the plate on the router table. Using a flush trim bit, route it to the same dimensions as the plate. Then screw it to your jig saw (drilling a hole for the bit of course), turn it upside down and drop it into your router table. Voila, a very cheap table/band saw referenced off the router table's fence.
Is there a reason you couldn't spend $2 and make up a plate for your circular saw, as well?

Seems to me that the jigsaw might be safer, in that an upside-down circ. saw would have no protection against kickback, but there are materials where that'd not be a concern.

[David DeCristoforo]

Obviously, the jig saw is not the "go to" tool for ripping. But if it's all you have, you can easily make a simple but accurate "ripping jig" with a strip if 1/4" plywood and a strip of 3/4" plywood. Make the strip of 1/4" about 12" wide and the strip of 3/4" about 3" wide. Attach the 1/4" strip to the 3/4" strip with screws. Make sure that the 3/4" strip is in from the edge a distance greater than the distance from your jig saw's blade to the edge of the shoe. Then use the edge of the 3/4" strip as a guide to trim the 1/4". The 3/4" is now the "fence" and the cut edge of the 1/4" is your "reference edge". Clamp this to the material to be cut with the "reference edge" on the cut line. This also works with circular saws, routers, etc.

[Jason White]

A jigsaw is the right tool, but you should scribe the last panel into the corner for a better fit. No special jig required. Also consider a slight back-bevel for an even better fit if you're going to be right up against another panel on an adjacent wall. If you're painting these, you can caulk that joint for an ever better look.

Jason



Hello,

I need to “rip” some 1/4 inch thick wainscoting panels. These are each about four inches wide and about thirty inches long. As I install them onto my wall, when I get to an end, I will need to rip any of them that are too wide to fit the remaining distance. And the amount to rip won’t be the same for each one.

I don’t have a table saw, so the only tool that seems to fit the bill would be a jigsaw. But it isn’t easy to clamp everything together (straight edge, piece to be ripped, etc.), and still leave enough room for the base of the jigsaw to ride along the straight edge.

I’ve been fooling around with some ideas of how to build an appropriate jig for this, but so far, I haven’t built anything that I’m pleased with.

I’m wondering whether any of you have encountered a similar situation and whether you’ve built a jig to do this, and if so, can do briefly explain how you did it? I know that this sounds rather simple, but to me, it isn’t that easy.

Thanks,
Louis

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
While I use a table saw to cut those T&G wainscoat pieces the borg sells most of the time, I've cut more than a few using a handsaw.
The Birch ones cut easy.

PS - when you scribe the T&G pieces - make sure you allow for the T&G. If you don't, you'll end up with a gap. (DAMHIKT):rolleyes::o