Miter Gauge Specific Questions

[Greg Crawford]

I've used sleds for all my critical crosscuts, but now I have some stock that is too tall for my 45 sled. I've got to bite the bullet and spring for a good miter gauge. I've read about how lots of folks love theirs, but just saying that you love it and that it's accurate isn't quite what I'm looking for. I have some specific questions about the length of the bar, how much bar is in front and behind the pivot and how these effect their use.

I've got it narrowed down to Incra, Jessem or Woodhaven. Only the Woodhaven Deluxe and Incra 5000 offer bars longer than around 18", which is about what my stock bar is. The Jessem seems to have more of the bar behind the pivot than any of the others. I've set my stock gauge for 90s and 45s, and it seems like the longer bar in the rear would help with 90s, but the more bar there is in the front would be better for 45s. Has anyone seen any advantages or disadvantages with these configurations under real circumstances?

I like the way the Incra bars adjust from above, but the Jessem is just so beefy it's really got my attention. I am concerned about the future of Jessem after some of the comments I've read recently about some experiences with them. All I know about the Woodhaven is what I've read here on SMC and their web site.

I've tried other brands, and I'm set on one of these three, so comments from those owners will be especially appreciated.

Thanks,

Greg

[glenn bradley]

If bar behind the pivot is important you may want to look at the Osborne EB-I or II. If I am getting it, you are losing height due to the thickness of your sled base(?). A less expensive solution may be a tack specific sled with a 1/4" base. You could use guide bars or design it to ride the edge of your fence. Just a thought. I haven't had luck with any single guide bar device when cutting larger (heavier, thicker) stock. My Incra works great for lighter stuff; otherwise I use a sled.

[Greg Crawford]

Glenn, you're exactly on track about the thickness of the sled. I thought about making a different one, but I really need to get a better miter gauge.

I looked at the Osborne, and though it was very ridgid for the angles, it was extremely easy to twist. I don't know if that would really come into play while cutting, but I just didn't like as well as the others.

Thanks

[Bill White]

I use the Incra 1000 SE with good results.
Bill

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Build a 45 degree sled? If you're only doing 45s.... That's the way I'd go. Or use the miter saw. My vintage DeWalt is pretty accurate.

I've never really liked Miter gages. But then, I've only owned crappy ones, so that may have a lot to do with it.

[Bill Huber]

Glenn, you're exactly on track about the thickness of the sled. I thought about making a different one, but I really need to get a better miter gauge.

I looked at the Osborne, and though it was very ridgid for the angles, it was extremely easy to twist. I don't know if that would really come into play while cutting, but I just didn't like as well as the others.

Thanks

I am not sure what you are meaning when you say it was easy to twist. I have the EB-3 and you can't twist it.

[Brian Frances]

Greg,
I have the Jessem Miter xcel and Incra v27(a little similar the 5000). I prefer the Jessem simply because to me it is a little more robust and heavy duty than the Incra. The Incra is rolled steel while the Jessem seems to be casted. I am a little hard on these gages and the Jessem has managed to hold its accuracy, while the knob of the V27 has broken. I think the incra tends to twist when used with a heavy board as oppose to the Jessem which holds up quite well. In the end they are both great gages and comes down to personal preference.

I haven't measured my miter bar on the Jessem but I think if the bar only is engaged in the miter slot while the main body is hanging off the table, there is enough twist/slop (maybe 1/2 degree) for it not to hold the desired angles. I get the best results when the body of the gage sits on the TS table which gives me a max distance or board width of about 11" to the saw blade. Any longer and I simply use the cross cut sled.

You can picked up this gage for $180 shipped from ebay... Hope this helps.

[Bob Genovesi]

I use the JDS Accu-Miter and have no intention of changing...

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/BobbyG53/AccuMiter1.jpg

[Cary Falk]

I have the Incra 1000SE and haven't had any problems cutting 90 degrees or miters.

[Philip Johnson]

I kind of hate to say anything negative about a product that has a good reputation like Jessum. I bought one and it had too much play in it. They used a system of two pins to lock the miter, with both pins installed I could move the miter about .015 to .020 enough to throw the corner off. I had to hold it in one direction and tighten down the handle to make it cut square, defeats the reason of why I bought it. I really wanted to like that miter, it was well built. I did call Jessum and they had me return it where I bought it and they did not have another to try so I ended up with an Incra 1000 hd and I am happy with it. I hope this is an isolated incident but I would suggest to try one out before buying to make sure.

[Chris Kennedy]

I kind of hate to say anything negative about a product that has a good reputation like Jessum. I bought one and it had too much play in it. They used a system of two pins to lock the miter, with both pins installed I could move the miter about .015 to .020 enough to throw the corner off. I had to hold it in one direction and tighten down the handle to make it cut square, defeats the reason of why I bought it. I really wanted to like that miter, it was well built. I did call Jessum and they had me return it where I bought it and they did not have another to try so I ended up with an Incra 1000 hd and I am happy with it. I hope this is an isolated incident but I would suggest to try one out before buying to make sure.

I have the Jessem, and once it it is set, I cannot move it to save my life. If I had had Philip's experience, I would be wary as well. All I can say is that mine has been solid and dead-on. I like the fence -- it is robust and solid. It doesn't flex with longer stock.

That having been said, I have never read a bad word about Incra, and I hear you on the lack of response from JessEm.

Cheers,

Chris

[scott spencer]

Greg - I've owned the EB-3, Incra V27, and Jet/Woodhaven Deluxe. All are excellent gauges for different reasons. The Woodhaven was the most robustly made off those 3, and has the best precision head, but is the most difficult to change angles with...you need to remove the brass thumb screw completely to change angles. The EB-3 has a great fence and is easy enough to use...it's accurate and sturdy, but is bigger than the others. The V27 is simply a great bargain on a great gauge...it needs a fence, which essentially makes it pretty close to a 1000SE.

[Greg Crawford]

I kind of hate to say anything negative about a product that has a good reputation like Jessum. I bought one and it had too much play in it. They used a system of two pins to lock the miter, with both pins installed I could move the miter about .015 to .020 enough to throw the corner off. I had to hold it in one direction and tighten down the handle to make it cut square, defeats the reason of why I bought it. I really wanted to like that miter, it was well built. I did call Jessum and they had me return it where I bought it and they did not have another to try so I ended up with an Incra 1000 hd and I am happy with it. I hope this is an isolated incident but I would suggest to try one out before buying to make sure.

I did just that today. The Jessem I tried also moved with both pins installed. I know others that have it and it's rock solid, so there must be some issue with their QC. I went ahead with the Incra 1000 HD. It seems that if the pointer is registered fully in the v-groove, the angle on it can't vary. I also like their dual arm flip stop. Most of the single point flip stops have at least some play.

One thing puzzles me with it. They have 180 stops, so tapers can actually be done, but the bar is so short, it couldn't be a very long taper. I'd really be interested in hearing from someone that manufacturers miter gauges about how they choose bar length. Maybe I'm just too skeptical of miter gauges, since I've never had a good one until now.

Bill,

The Osborne I looked at had the connection points low on the fence, and it didn't take much at all to be able to rotate, or twist, the fence. For long, tall stock, which is why I'm getting this, it could make a difference.

Thanks All

[Lee Schierer]

I have the Kreg miter gauge and it has been exceptionally accurate. It has preset shot pin holes for the common angles and has zero movement once the phot pin is inserted. The bar is about 20" long if I recall correctly. The only thing I noticed with mine is that the bar fit loosely in my older crafsman miter slot. They furnish a number of plastic set screws to tighten up the fit, but I elected to use one strip of UHMW tape (.004 thick) along one side instead of the set screws. I now have a smooth sliding bar with no side play.