Performax 22-44

[Jim Foster]

Hi,

I have the 22-44 performax (Pro Unit) with it's own table, etc. I like it... but it chews up paper quite a bit. Seems like every 20 minutes or so the paper will loosen up and if I don't stop the machine and re-tighten it it will let go at some point.

I'm sanding Q-Sawn oak panels about 12in wide with 80 grit taking off .015-.020 at a time. Turning the crank about 1/6 each time after putting a board through twice. The table drive does not slow down, nor does the machine sound like it's working too hard. Good dust collection also.

Any thoughts. My paranoid initial response to the problem is that the large roller should be runbber wrapped or the sanpaper clips should be better designed. I'm not a pro, and I have about 20 hours on the machine.

Any thoughts form other owners would be appreciated

[Cary Falk]

Is it slipping from the clips and that is what is causing the paper to come loose? Or is the paper stretching?

[Peter Quinn]

I have the same sander, I have never had that problem. You need to wrap the paper so there is a little space between turns, do not overlap the layers or but them together tightly. Also make sure the tails at each end of the paper are trimmed so about 3/4" goes into the spring clips. They make a little red rubber handled gizmo that came with mine that is supposed to make getting the paper on the second clip easier, though I have never used it. After putting a few hours on a new sheet I do sometimes have to snug it a bit. I keep my paper clean with a gum rubber stick meant for that purpose, seems to give the paper more life. I also like to run some scrap through once or twice after putting on a new sheet to knock down the paper a bit, seems to minimize scratch marks on the wood.

The wide belt at work has a rubberized head, but that is a whole different animal.

[doug faist]

Jim - I've got the same sander and I agree completely with Peter. You should leave 1/16" to 1/8" between the edges as you roll the paper out. It seems to help the paper stay tight. I've found that ANY overlap leads pretty quickly to shredded paper, especially with the finer grits.

I, too, have read the instructions a number of times and I still can't figure out how to use the little gizmo that's supposed to make it easier to attach the clips. I just use my fingers and try to get it nice and snug on the first try.

Doug

[Jim Foster]

Guys,

Thanks for the feedback.

In general after installing paper, It will stretch after a while and I'll tighten it. It still loosens after another 20 minutes or so. I've been trying to leave a thin gap, I'll take more notice the next several times.

Typically what grit do you guys use. With the Q-Sawn Oak, I'm a little hesitant to go over 120-150 due to potential burnishing? Any experience in this?

[Cary Falk]

Guys,

Thanks for the feedback.

In general after installing paper, It will stretch after a while and I'll tighten it. It still loosens after another 20 minutes or so. I've been trying to leave a thin gap, I'll take more notice the next several times.

Typically what grit do you guys use. With the Q-Sawn Oak, I'm a little hesitant to go over 120-150 due to potential burnishing? Any experience in this?

It sounds like you need better paper. I leave 120 on my Grizzy 18/36 all the time

[Ron Bontz]

Please check the weight of the paper. J weight will definitely move on you. You should be using x or xy weight paper. Also anything finer than 220 grit may be a problem. I ran 80 and 120 grit on my 22-44. Worked great. I have noticed on my General dual drum if I use finer than 220 grit or thinner than xy weight paper I have problems. Best of luck to you.:)

[Rod Upfold]

I have the 22-44 and I was loosing paper also...the paper was slacking off on me and then I was also probably taking too much of a bite. The last paper that I put on I made sure that it was as tight as possible (the next time I will get someone to help me to hold the paper tight as I roll the drum).

That stupid tool that you get is totally worthless - I use my fingers to open the clips. The first time I looked at the clip on the open end of the drum to understand what I was feeling for on the motor end of the drum. Its much easier just use the fingers than trying to fool around with that soft aluminum tool.

[Jim Foster]

Thanks Ron, I ran out to the shop this morning hoping it was "J" but it's "X", si I'll just have to pay a little more attention when wrpping it the next few cycles.


Please check the weight of the paper. J weight will definitely move on you. You should be using x or xy weight paper. Also anything finer than 220 grit may be a problem. I ran 80 and 120 grit on my 22-44. Worked great. I have noticed on my General dual drum if I use finer than 220 grit or thinner than xy weight paper I have problems. Best of luck to you.:)

[Jim Foster]

Thanks Rod,

I'm going to try and get the paper tighter and gie it a go.


I have the 22-44 and I was loosing paper also...the paper was slacking off on me and then I was also probably taking too much of a bite. The last paper that I put on I made sure that it was as tight as possible (the next time I will get someone to help me to hold the paper tight as I roll the drum).

That stupid tool that you get is totally worthless - I use my fingers to open the clips. The first time I looked at the clip on the open end of the drum to understand what I was feeling for on the motor end of the drum. Its much easier just use the fingers than trying to fool around with that soft aluminum tool.

[Greg Crawford]

Jim,

I have the 16/32, and I've noticed that the rougher grits are stiffer, and may interfer with the spring meant to take up slack as the paper loosens. I try to "pre-bend" the ends to help make it easier to go over the edge into the clip.

You may want to try lighter passes and see if maybe the passes you're taking now are building enough heat to make the paper expand. As for the "sand smart" ever slowing the conveyor, I don't think it works at all. I've popped the breaker on the sanding drum motor and the conveyor never slowed one bit, just kept shoving the stock through.

As for finer grits, you have to take light passes and feed fast, or it can and will burn. I've burned oak and cherry until I cranked up the speed.

Good luck,

Greg

[Brent Smith]

Hi Jim,

I've come across the problem on my 22-44 also. I found it happened more often with coarser grits. I've found what works with my machine. Before first putting on the paper I pull it over a 1" dowel rod to loosen it up a bit. Then after the first 5-10 minutes of use I re-wrap it on the drum. Since doing these procedures I haven't had any come loose on me.

[Peter Quinn]

Guys,
Typically what grit do you guys use. With the Q-Sawn Oak, I'm a little hesitant to go over 120-150 due to potential burnishing? Any experience in this?

I use 80G to grind off material on things I can't plane, though this is rare. I mostly use 100G. I have never used the 150G I bought, as the drum sander leaves straight line scratches, so I find myself sanding with an ROS anyway. I occasionally go to 120G on the drum just because I bought a box and feel I should use it. So its pretty much machine sand at 100G, start sanding with the ROS at 80G and go up through the sanding schedule for the work at hand from from there.

[Jim Foster]

Guys,

Thanks for all the feedback on this, it's helped my understanding a lot, now I'll see if I can get it right in the shop.

[Rod Upfold]

I have the 22-44 and it came with that stupid cheap little tool. I had a devil of time to get the paper on with my fingers and trying to hold the paper tight around the drum. You also can't see the clip and trying to get the paper end into the clip - the paper was always loose.

Now I reverse the loading of the paper - I start by attaching the paper at the motor end and reverse wrap it around the drum. Now I can attach the loose end of the paper easliy because I can see the clip and able to pull the paper tight.

Rod

[Jim Eller]

Rod,

Agree with the "stupid tool" thing.

Thanks for the reverse idea.

Jim