Made a decision: Use the walnut blank for the wood plane

[Al Navas]

From my blog:

In an earlier post (http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=114736) I pondered a decision: Make the little hand plane using the walnut with the oak base, or use the Osage Orange blank. In the end I decided to use the walnut blank. As I have never made a wood plane, I needed something to guide me. Enter a great reference - I just bought David Finck's Making & Mastering Wood Planes (http://www.davidfinck.com/book.htm), Revised Edition, which came out a few weeks ago; the copy I received was signed by the author. Finck has also posted on YouTube a video supplement (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dag4qNRdRRo) to the book!

First things first: On the top I marked the front, to make sure I would have the correct orientation in the end. And I carefully identified each cheek relative to the core parts. Now, the actual work follows.

I started by removing the cheeks at the band saw:

http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-1.png

To keep the cheeks properly aligned with the rest of the body, I used alignment dowels. I drilled the holes and inserted slightly oversize dowels, then trimmed the dowels flush with the cheeks (the dowels are close to the edge, as they will be removed when the body is shaped):

http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-2.png

Careful layout is required for the pin - I elected to go with a wooden pin to hold the wedge that holds the iron:

http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-3.png

At this stage the basic things are done, and I can do a dry fit:

http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-4.png

This pin is planed by hand, but with a block plane upside down in a vise; the hand guides the pin along the base of the block plane, one thin sliver at a time, until suitably round:

http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-5.png

A peek at the front end of the hand plane structure; notice I have rounded the surface, to provide better chip clearance:

http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-6.png

A temporary wedge in place, as I wanted to have a better feel for the fit across the opening:

http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-7.png

In the next photo I have all body components ready for glue-up:

http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-8.png

Dinner time. To be continued... Thanks for reading, folks!


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[John Keeton]

Good choice!! Some neat pics, Al. I will be interested in how this goes - I could be convinced to do this.

I have an old piece of really dense white oak - might try that for a starter - or walnut - or OO??:confused: Decisions - sound familiar?

[Johnny Kleso]

The front section of your plane I would make the inside angle striaght for a 1/4" or more, in fact I would make 1/8" of it at the reverse angle you have..

This way as you true the sole the mouth doesnt get so big so fast..

[Al Navas]

Good choice!! Some neat pics, Al. I will be interested in how this goes - I could be convinced to do this.

I have an old piece of really dense white oak - might try that for a starter - or walnut - or OO??:confused: Decisions - sound familiar?
:D :D :cool:

You are right, John! These are tough decisions to make... ;) By the way, the Finck book is a terrific reference.





The front section of your plane I would make the inside angle straight for a 1/4" or more, in fact I would make 1/8" of it at the reverse angle you have..

This way as you true the sole the mouth doesn't get so big so fast..
Johnny,

Thanks! I started the curve on the front just above the white oak layer; the 1/4-inch thick iron hits the white oak at just about half the oak thickness. I must remove some of this after assembly, which will leave at least a 1/8-inch thick area. Is this what you meant? As I did the layout for the curve, I realized the thickness of the what was left of the sole in this area would have a huge bearing on this particular issue. I will try a photo this morning, as I am doing it from memory (less and less trustworthy...:))


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[Al Navas]

Johnny:

I believe the geometry will keep the mouth from opening too fast - what do you think?

http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-9.png

http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-10.png

The iron from Brese Plane has a knurled knob on the top side, to keep the iron from falling through the mouth opening when loosening the wedge. As a result, I had to machine a slot to accommodate the knob:


http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-11.png



(http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-11.png)

Finally, the glue-up. The board on the bottom is used to keep the front and back sections properly aligned:


http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-glue-up-1.png



(http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-glue-up-1.png)
I managed to keep squeeze out on the inside ramps to almost nil, by spreading the glue approximately ¼-inch from the ramp edges:


http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-glue-up-2.png



(http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/plane-glue-up-2.png)
Now comes the hard part: Waiting for the glue to dry. Stand by for more to come!


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[Phillip Pattee]

Al,

You have made quick progress! I am particulary interested in seeing your technique for flattening the bottom and opening the mouth so that the blade fits through. This is where I had some trouble on the kit HNT Gordon plane I built (a Christmas give from SWMBO :)). I used sandpaper on a flat surface (glass set on my table saw). Be careful because as you repeat moving the plane over the sand paper the abrasive wears down and as you slightly move the plane left or right new abrasive comes into contact with the sides while worn abrasive contacts the center. This creates a tendency to put a camber on your plane sole and the sandpaper cuts more aggresively at the edges of the plane sole. Check the flatness frequently and change the paper before you think you should.

On my next attempt, hard maple with a purple heart sole, I clamped the plane upside down in my vice and took shavings off with my Bailey smoother. This worked faster and better for me.