Garage Storage Cabinet (PICS)

[Todd Burch]

You might be thinking "humm, that is way too nice to be for a garage." Well, some clients like nice things in their garage!!

<IMG SRC="http://www.burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/cabinets/storagecabinet_closed.jpg">

This is a basic cabinet that went together fairly fast. The construction is frame and panel. The frame is 3/4" thick poplar (the greenish wood) and 3/4" birch plywood for the panels. The back is 1/8" hardboard. All the panels, including the doors, were made with pocket screw joinery, which means most of the case has butt joints with glue and screws holding it together. The bottom shelf, upper shelf and top are dadoed into the sides. The face frame is glued and nailed to the case. Nothing too complex, but still very nice looking.

<img src="http://www.burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/cabinets/storagecabinet_open.jpg">

With the doors open, you see the 4 adjustable shelves under the wide top fixed shelf. The shelf materials used were 3/4" birch plywood and 3/4" MDF - I used the closest available piece that would fit. The shelves are less than 23" wide, and technically would not have needed a solid wood edging for support, however it was added for looks

<img src="http://www.burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/cabinets/storagecabinet_door.jpg">

The shot above shows the pocket screw joinery holes. There are wood plugs available to fill these holes, but for a utility piece such as this, they are not worth the time it takes to install them.

<img src="http://www.burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/cabinets/storagecabinet_trim.jpg">

While certainly not needed to hide any gaps in joinery, a small subtle trim piece was added to the top of the case to visually terminate it.

<img src="http://www.burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/cabinets/storagecabinet_base.jpg">

The side stiles extend down to form short legs. They were cut at a 45° angle to give the case an appearance of rigidity and lightness.

<img src="http://www.burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/cabinets/storagecabinet_drawing.jpg">

Oh yeah, some Sketchup Drawings! The client will paint it. (Maybe not after he sees it!) I still have the hardware (hasp locks) to add.

Todd

[Chris Padilla]

Looks nice, Todd. I will be in the garage cabinet making phase in a month or two so I'm researching that stuff. I'm thinking french cleats will prevail in my shop.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Hi Todd, Nice piece there. I was wondering how hard that will be to move into place; it looks like it would weigh a lot and wondered how you move pieces this big?

Is that one solid piece of ply for the doors or is it two? I like the pocket hole idea for items like this. Boy you sure are productive. Alan in Md.

[Todd Burch]

Alan, It's not too too heavy. I can angle it back against a workbench, then pick it up and slide it up and around. By myself, I can flip or over while on a bench too. I'll have to have help to load it in the truck - don't want too many dings you know. It will lay on it's back in the truck.

Each door is two pieces of ply, 16½" wide x 28¾" tall, wrapped by framing pieces 2½" wide by however long. Each side is similar, with each ply 30½" tall and 18" wide, surrounding by 3" framing pieces. (the side stiles closest to the front are on 2¼" wide - if you add the thickness of the face frame, ¾", you get the 3".)

Overall dimensions are 2' deep, 4' wide and 6' tall.

I would be more productive if I didn't try to drill all the shelf clip holes with a dull drill bit!!! I'm thinking a multi-spindle boring machine is in my future....

[Joe Scarfo]

Nice looking sketch up drawings... what did you use to create them?


Tks
Joe

[Aaron Heck]

Gotta love those pocket holes jigs! Nice work!

[Doug Jones]

Todd,
As usual, your work is truely amazing.

[Chris Padilla]

I would be more productive if I didn't try to drill all the shelf clip holes with a dull drill bit!!! I'm thinking a multi-spindle boring machine is in my future....
I'm thinking a new drill bit or at least a drill bit sharpener might be first! :D

[Jim Becker]

Very nice cabinet, Todd. I also like pocket screws and might do something similar for some shop cabinets I have planned once I get rid of the wall that currently supports the stairway to the second level. Thanks for the idea!! :D

[Todd Burch]

Joe - www.sketchup.com.

Todd

[Joe Mioux]

Hi Todd,

I really like the cabinet. Your post comes at a good time for me. I'm getting close to finishing up some garage cabinets made from birch plywood and I'm debating what kind of finish to use. How do you plan on finishing the cabinet?

Thanks Joe

[Wes Bischel]

Todd,

I'd have to say the cabinet is a definite endorsement for pocket screws. The design turned out reallynice - well proportioned - especially considering it's going in the garage!

Wes

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I'm thinking a new drill bit or at least a drill bit sharpener might be first! :D

Now Chris I think you've broken a very important rule here. You can never talk somebody out of buying a tool he or she may want or desire. And you are not supposed to try to convince them with logic of buying a cheaper tool when a more expensive thingamabob will get the job done just as well. :) Alan in Md.

[Chris Padilla]

Alan, I did leave it a bit open as I said a new one might be first! You know, as in the borer could be second! :D

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Alan, It's not too too heavy. I can angle it back against a workbench, then pick it up and slide it up and around. By myself, I can flip or over while on a bench too. I'll have to have help to load it in the truck - don't want too many dings you know. It will lay on it's back in the truck.

Each door is two pieces of ply, 16½" wide x 28¾" tall, wrapped by framing pieces 2½" wide by however long. Each side is similar, with each ply 30½" tall and 18" wide, surrounding by 3" framing pieces. (the side stiles closest to the front are on 2¼" wide - if you add the thickness of the face frame, ¾", you get the 3".)

Overall dimensions are 2' deep, 4' wide and 6' tall.

I would be more productive if I didn't try to drill all the shelf clip holes with a dull drill bit!!! I'm thinking a multi-spindle boring machine is in my future....


As usual thanks for sharing Todd and don't listen to Chris. I've already reminded him of the rules here and he has been properly reprimanded. :) I mean if you can't look forward to buying more tools then what is living for? Alan in Md.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Alan, I did leave it a bit open as I said a new one might be first! You know, as in the borer could be second! :D
I don't know Chris; I think you're just skirting the law. :)

BTW you live in a beautiful area. I always loved the West coast and have family in LA. How do you like it there? Pros and cons? Alan

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Did you assemble the "box" first then insert the shelves. I've read where some things have to glued up/assembled from the inside out. I'm going to be making an entertainment center some day and just wondered. Is all glued and screwed? I just love that Kreg jig and the joints seem really strong. Alan

[Jamie Buxton]

I would be more productive if I didn't try to drill all the shelf clip holes with a dull drill bit!!! I'm thinking a multi-spindle boring machine is in my future....

Todd --
I'm a big fan of boring those shelf peg columns with a plunge router. The router assures that all the holes are 90 degrees to the face, and it has a really solid depth stop. I can zoom down the jig without any worries. If you buy or build a jig which is six feet long, you don't even have to stop to reposition the jig on most cabinets. Okay, it isn't as fast as a multi-spindle boring machine, but it is darn tough to keep one of those machines fully employed unless you have ten guys working for you.

Jamie

[Todd Burch]

Alan, there is one fixed shelf and 4 adjustable. The 4 adjustable are free floating on the pegs and were not part of the assembly process. The fixed shelf is dadoed into the sides and it was part of the assembly.

I drilled the holes with the Veritas hole drilling jig system thingy. If my drill had a brake on it, where I didn't have to wait for it to stop spinning, I could reinsert it faster. I drilled the holes for the pegs after the case sides, top. middle shelf and bottom, and lower center partition was installed (AKA, before the back and face frame were applied.) I registered from the bottom of the case.

Jamie, I have two plunge routers, but really haven't used them for drilling peg holes. A sharp brad point bit leaves a clean hole edge and I usually drill deeper than the peg anyway. Plus, working in the residential area that I do, I lean towards "quieter" tools when I can. There were only (18 * 8) holes in this case. I have some more open-type garage shelves to make later this week - two cases - 8' high, 8' wide ,with adjustable shelves. That will be a LOT of drilling. Ugg. More like (24 * 40) holes. My wrist hurts already just thinking about it. (Maybe I should go price a 7 hole boring machine...)

[Jamie Buxton]

...If my drill had a brake on it, where I didn't have to wait for it to stop spinning, I could reinsert it faster....

Todd --

Using a plunge router, you never have to turn it off. I just plunge, pop, move, plunge, pop, etc. I lift my finger off the trigger only when I reach the end of the template. I probably average one hole per two seconds.

I use a bit intended for plunge cutting. It is solid carbide, spiral, upcut. In either 1/4" or 5 mm, it costs around $20. It makes a pretty clean hole. I generally finish the cabinet insides before I bore the holes, so it better make a clean cut.

I like to bore the holes before I assemble the cabinet. When the sides are out on the bench, you can bore the holes without having to preztel yourself in some odd position inside the cabinet. You also have lots of reference edges to guide the jig, and the jig isn't trying to fall over on you.

On the quietude issue, you're right. A drill is quieter than a router. But with a shop full of big stationary machines, I figure the router isn't the neighbors' biggest concern. :o


Jamie

[Mark Singer]

Very nice cabinet. Nice simple details.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Alan, there is one fixed shelf and 4 adjustable. The 4 adjustable are free floating on the pegs and were not part of the assembly process. The fixed shelf is dadoed into the sides and it was part of the assembly.

I drilled the holes with the Veritas hole drilling jig system thingy. If my drill had a brake on it, where I didn't have to wait for it to stop spinning, I could reinsert it faster. I drilled the holes for the pegs after the case sides, top. middle shelf and bottom, and lower center partition was installed (AKA, before the back and face frame were applied.) I registered from the bottom of the case.

Jamie, I have two plunge routers, but really haven't used them for drilling peg holes. A sharp brad point bit leaves a clean hole edge and I usually drill deeper than the peg anyway. Plus, working in the residential area that I do, I lean towards "quieter" tools when I can. There were only (18 * 8) holes in this case. I have some more open-type garage shelves to make later this week - two cases - 8' high, 8' wide ,with adjustable shelves. That will be a LOT of drilling. Ugg. More like (24 * 40) holes. My wrist hurts already just thinking about it. (Maybe I should go price a 7 hole boring machine...)


O.K. Todd, thanks for the great ideas.

[Jason Tuinstra]

Todd, nice looking cabinet. I like the idea of having doors on garage storage units. It gives the facade of order and cleanliness, that is, until you open the doors. :eek: :D

[Chris Padilla]

I like the idea of having doors on garage storage units. :eek: :DNaw...doors just get in the way and gosh, they take time to open, too! :rolleyes:

Besides, how do you know what is behind the doors??? :confused:

[Dan Mages]

Nice job!! What will the finish be on this piece?

Dan

[Garry Smith]

Hey Todd,

Those are som solid doors with the plywood and pocket screws into the frame

[Jason Tuinstra]

Besides, how do you know what is behind the doors??? :confused:

Chris, you make my point perfectly! :D

[Todd Burch]

Dan, I think they will paint it. If they ask my opinion, I will suggest an oil based poly or varnish on the plywood panels and a dark paint on the rails and stiles. Todd

[Greg Mann]

Todd --
I'm a big fan of boring those shelf peg columns with a plunge router. The router assures that all the holes are 90 degrees to the face, and it has a really solid depth stop. I can zoom down the jig without any worries. If you buy or build a jig which is six feet long, you don't even have to stop to reposition the jig on most cabinets. Okay, it isn't as fast as a multi-spindle boring machine, but it is darn tough to keep one of those machines fully employed unless you have ten guys working for you.

Jamie
Todd,

I've been leaning in Jamie's direction as well. IIRC, you use some Festool equipment now so I suppose you are familiar with their 32mm system. If you happen to already have one of their routers? using this system would probably cost less than a multi-spindle unit, I'm guessing. The reviews indicate that it is very fast and the positioning system is there by default. I also think you are overlooking the biggest problem with a seven spindle unit. You would then need seven sharp drills. ;) JK

BTW, I really like the cabinet. Sometimes simple is just fine. Besides, we also know that you can do work befitting the Sistine Chapel.

Greg

[Greg Tatum]

Todd....as a newbie,I have to ask about the screws holding the plywood panels to the solid wood frames. I know that floating panels are the way to go if you are using solid wood due to seasonal movement of a large panel but what if the frame wants to move? Is it less of a concern because of the screws and glue? The smaller size of the pieces?

I like piece and the design...would work well in any room. Thanks for any lessons in case joinery....I've not made anything larger than a small medicine chest which I've yet to finish.

Greg

[Todd Burch]

Good question Greg. The framing members will move, but in this situation, not enough to cause any concern (concern for me anyways!!)

Several years ago, I built a tall garageg cabinet from 1X12 Home Depot pine. The doors are two pieces of 1X12 pine, one on either side of the case. The left door has a couple butterfly catches to hold it snug to the case. The right door has a cylinder lock on it that throws behind the caught door. The doors have opposite rabbets so they overlap in the middle. I intentionally left them unfinished to observe and learn from seasonal wood movement. In really humid weather (95%+), the doors touch (rub) in the middle. During the winter during low humidity (<40%), there is as much as a 1/8" gap between the doors. So, the max each flatsawn 11" wide pine door moves is 1/16".

Watching this over the years keeps reminding me that wood moves. Some woods move more than others, and the same wood, depending on its cut, will move more than other cuts of the same wood.

Poplar is purported as a fairly stable wood. The wood was climatized to about 12% to 13% moisture content, which is the EMC (equilibrium moisture content) for my locale. It will live in an unairconditioned, unheated garage where it will be at the same EMC most of the time. So, I do not expect significant movement... ever.

Now, if they decide to take this cabinet inside and use it for an amoire, something will move, and I expect that the doors will be the first to move, and they would most likely twist if they did anything at all. This would be observed where they meet in the middle - the corners at the top or bottom might kick in or out. Probably nothing a strong magnet would not correct.

The most restricted piece is the 2 1/2" wide center rail on the doors and the 3" wide middle rail on the side panels. It has three options - it can stay, swell or shrink. If it swells a lot, for example if the sprinkler hits it through an open window, it has no where to expand to, so the fibers will crush against each other. No big deal here - until it dries out and shrinks back to normal (normal = EMC), and there are crushed fibers. At that point, the wood will split, and most likely, it will split right down through the center horizontally. Even with this piece split, the doors and case sides will still have integrity.

If it stays, so what. Good.

If it shrinks, it might split, but I suspect it wouldn't.

This action of getting wet, crushing fibers, and drying out and seemingly shrinking, you have probably observed if you've ever gotten a wooden handled hammer wet. Once the handle dries out, the head comes loose. Time for a bigger wedge - the fibers are skinnier than before since they were crushed.

Did I answer your question?

Todd

[Greg Mann]

Did I answer your question?

Todd
Todd,
I don't know if you answered Greg's question but you sure explained your thought processes well. There are many layers to this onion we refer to as wood movement.

The other Greg

[Michael McCoy]

My wife has been trying to pound a semi understandable plan in to my ol' white head about a large pantry she wants me to build for her. With some real slight mods, you just drew it out for me. Thanks for this one. :)

[Greg Tatum]

Yes, you did answer my question Todd...thanks. :) another example of the attributes of this forum and its members....I believe there is a complete woodworking course within the archives of SMC.
Greg

[Byron Trantham]

Todd, I really like the design, subtle yet strong and functional. I agree, I would just clear it. 1/8" hard board? :confused: Hum! Seems thin but hard board is hard and strong in this application. Would have used 1/4" only because of habit but I think 1/8" is a more reasonable choice.

Thanks for sharing.

Byron

[Todd Burch]

Byron - normally I don't use 1/8" ply for anything, and normally I wouldn't even have it in the shop. But, it was left over from the study job I did. I had bought 8 sheets of this to protect the floor while I was working in the room. And, a couple weeks ago, I even used this same sheet to cover my shop floor while I was spraying some stain. Needless to say, the back of the sheet is pretty grody. I basically used it to get rid of it. :)

[Byron Trantham]

Byron - normally I don't use 1/8" ply for anything, and normally I wouldn't even have it in the shop. But, it was left over from the study job I did. I had bought 8 sheets of this to protect the floor while I was working in the room. And, a couple weeks ago, I even used this same sheet to cover my shop floor while I was spraying some stain. Needless to say, the back of the sheet is pretty grody. I basically used it to get rid of it. :)

Ah So!
"I see, said the blind man!"
Vely intelesting... :p

[Boyd Gathwright]

Nice work Todd. Bet you put some time in on that.

Boyd ;)

.


You might be thinking "humm, that is way too nice to be for a garage." Well, some clients like nice things in their garage!!

http://www.burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/cabinets/storagecabinet_closed.jpg

This is a basic cabinet that went together fairly fast. The construction is frame and panel. The frame is 3/4" thick poplar (the greenish wood) and 3/4" birch plywood for the panels. The back is 1/8" hardboard. All the panels, including the doors, were made with pocket screw joinery, which means most of the case has butt joints with glue and screws holding it together. The bottom shelf, upper shelf and top are dadoed into the sides. The face frame is glued and nailed to the case. Nothing too complex, but still very nice looking.

http://www.burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/cabinets/storagecabinet_open.jpg

With the doors open, you see the 4 adjustable shelves under the wide top fixed shelf. The shelf materials used were 3/4" birch plywood and 3/4" MDF - I used the closest available piece that would fit. The shelves are less than 23" wide, and technically would not have needed a solid wood edging for support, however it was added for looks

http://www.burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/cabinets/storagecabinet_door.jpg

The shot above shows the pocket screw joinery holes. There are wood plugs available to fill these holes, but for a utility piece such as this, they are not worth the time it takes to install them.

http://www.burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/cabinets/storagecabinet_trim.jpg

While certainly not needed to hide any gaps in joinery, a small subtle trim piece was added to the top of the case to visually terminate it.

http://www.burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/cabinets/storagecabinet_base.jpg

The side stiles extend down to form short legs. They were cut at a 45° angle to give the case an appearance of rigidity and lightness.

http://www.burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/cabinets/storagecabinet_drawing.jpg

Oh yeah, some Sketchup Drawings! The client will paint it. (Maybe not after he sees it!) I still have the hardware (hasp locks) to add.

Todd