battery salvage

[Stan Terrell]

I would like to tap into the off topic knowledge base of this august group.
I have a 12 volt lead-acid battery (top post) that the negative post has eroded to a cone. I can't get a terminal to stay on it. The top is normal size. The top is about 1/4 inch diameter. The battery takes and holds a charge well.
My purposed fix is to saw off the post as close as possible to the case and then drill and tap the post to install an adapter that is designed to convert a side post to a top post.
Any thoughts or a better solution for this problem?

Thanks
Stan

[Rich Stewart]

Go buy a new battery. 75 bucks maybe? No more trouble for another five years or so.

[Charlie Jones]

If you are a mechanicly minded guy you can saw it off and make a little steel form. Melt lead and repour the terminal. it's easier than it sounds. Use bar solder and a propane torch. Melt the solder in a cast iron pot and pour it in. Don't melt the solder with the torch over the battery or the gases may explode.

[John Lohmann]

drill a hole through the side of the terminal & the post also, put in a stainless steel bolt. If you need to reuse the cable, add a new terminal if you want to.

[Chuck Wintle]

Personally I would just buy a new battery and send this one for recycling.

[Matt Meiser]

I'll repeat these because they are good advise!


Go buy a new battery. 75 bucks maybe? No more trouble for another five years or so.


Personally I would just buy a new battery and send this one for recycling.

If its corroded that bad its got to be getting up there in age. Even a quality brand, large size, deep cycle can be had for $100. Its not worth the frustration and safety issues of messing with it. You are messing with battery acid, explosive gases, and lead dust.

Replace the cable too and use some kind of anti-corrosion treatment and regular cleaning (baking soda works good, but keep it out of the battery itself) to keep everything in good shape.

[Eric Larsen]

+1 for "recycle the old battery and buy a new one."

Some things aren't worth the effort. Too much risk, not enough reward.

[David G Baker]

I spend $135 for the gel cell batteries at NAPA auto parts store. No leaks and last a long time.
I agree that trying to repair the issue with your battery is not worth the time or effort unless you don't have any other choice and are willing to assume the risk that goes along with the repair.

[Jon Grider]

Tightwad that I am, I usually try to fix rather than replace . If the battery is otherwise good,that $70 could go toward a tool or wood or whatever.

Fix it up
wear it out
make it do
or do without

[David Freed]

Tightwad that I am, I usually try to fix rather than replace . If the battery is otherwise good,that $70 could go toward a tool or wood or whatever.

Sounds like me. This is my daily driver. Paid $300, looks awful, runs great.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk129/freedhardwoods/Pickup/Pickup002opt.jpg


If you are a mechanicly minded guy you can saw it off and make a little steel form. Melt lead and repour the terminal. it's easier than it sounds. Use bar solder and a propane torch. Melt the solder in a cast iron pot and pour it in. Don't melt the solder with the torch over the battery or the gases may explode.

If you try this idea I would add one thing. I would put a small screw halfway into the cut off post before pouring the new post to anchor the two together.

[Scott T Smith]

My purposed fix is to saw off the post as close as possible to the case and then drill and tap the post to install an adapter that is designed to convert a side post to a top post.
Any thoughts or a better solution for this problem?

Thanks
Stan


Stan, if it were me, rather than converting to a side post I would consider turning it into a "marine style" battery. I would not saw the post off as close as possible to the case, but rather at the point where it was at least 5/16" - 3/8" diameter - larger if the battery experiences a significant amperage draw). I would then drill and tap it for a stainless steel 1/4" diameter stud (the type with a boss in the middle between the top and bottom threads - again a larger stud if you pull a lot of amps out of the battery), and tighten the stud firmly into the battery. I would use an eye terminal on the end of my battery cable, and a pair of stainless flat washers (with the eye bolt sandwiched in-between them), along with a stainless lock washer and nut.

I would coat all components with a silicon dielectric grease, or simply paint the outside of the post and terminals when I was done.