How to finish my current project?

[James Giordano]

Hi there, I've been checking in at SMC for about a week now and I it seems like there is quite a wealth of knowledge floating about in this bit of cyberspace. So, I have a question. I am new to woodworking and I am currently working on a small end table using Cherry and it will soon be time to put on a finish. This is something I know very little about and I am never quite sure what is the best way to do it. Anyway, in the past I have used Tung oil on cherry and I liked the results very much. For this project I would like to have a durable top coat on the tabletop and I was wondering, can I use Tung oil and then use polyurethane on top of that? I would appreciate any advice on this subject.:D

Thanx

[Pete Rosenbohm]

Just make sure your tung oil is dry, wipe really good, usually takes 24- 48 hours. Then you can topcoat with the poly.

Pete

[Jim Becker]

Using oil first is always my recommendation for cherry...I prefer BLO as it gives you the same results as tung oil (assuming you're talking about "real" tung oil and not a "tung oil finish"...the latter generally has no tung oil in it and is just a wiping varnish), is less expensive and cures quicker. As to the top coat, use what you prefer, but remember there are a lot of nice finishes that do not contain polyurethane...the most over hyped, yet universally available clear finish on the market. A varnish, such as Sherwin Williams Fast Dry or Pratt and Lambert #38 will be just as durable as poly and be somewhat clearer. In fact, the P&L #38, which uses soya oil as a base, is a little less yellow than some other finishes. And don't forget shellac and lacquer. Both are appropriate finishes for fine furniture.

[Dennis Peacock]

All great comments to the question so far.

I have to agree with Jim Becker. BLO is my preferred oil finish (mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits (MS) to get a "thin" oil coat on the wood and allow it to dry faster due to the coating being mostly MS.

A lot of people (like DIY'ers, and I'm one of them) use Poly as a clear top coat. Mostly because "Norm " uses poly on his show. Before you decide on a "top coat" for your furniute project...please consider "furniture repair" or more accurately put, "furniture finish repair". The easiest finishes to repair when/if the time ever comes is your solvent based finishes, like Shellac and Lacquer. Each coat of either of these will slightly melt a portion of the previous coat and creat a chemical bond that is tough and consistant.
Some varnishes and Poly require more of a "mechanical" bond to each previous coat. This is why you "sand" between coats for varnish (some types) and any poly so that each coating will "adhere" to the previous coating.

Now...all that is just a "general shot" at finishes for your project. Clear topcoats are a whole-nuther science when it comes to what's-what and why. It never hurts to "try" something during non-project time to learn and obtain skills on finishing or other things that you normally wouldn't have time for.

Remember.....none of us started out with what we know now, nor did the Professionals........everyone learns the same way, reading and tinkering. :D

[James Giordano]

Thanks for the input. I think I will have to experiment a little.