Help/Advise requested...

[Brent Grooms]

Well, I managed to get some lathe time and got my finials started and rough turned for the bedroom set that I promised the LOML. However, I am looking for a bit of advise on dealing with them.

They are spalted maple burl that I got from a local mill. Getting clean cuts mandate fresh edges on any tool but that is no guarantee. I am thinking of flooding them with thin CA before I start final shaping and sanding. I am planning on using Seal-a-cell/BLO and a laquer or poly top coat. Any suggestions?

FWIW.. the wood is solid and firm but still a bit punky. It seems to be pretty dry at this point.

[Gary Max]

If they where mine----I would rechuck them and get the 60 grit sandpaper out.
Sand at a low rpm so you don't over heat the sand paper---it's going to take some time.
Dealing with tear out on this type of wood can be a real PITA

[David Christopher]

Brent, that is beautiful wood...I think Gary is right sandpaper is your friend

[Dick Strauss]

Brent,
Whichever method you decide to try, try it on a piece of scrap first to see if you like the results before proceeding with the real deal! I've made this mistake more than I care to admit:(

I've had punky pieces like the ones you posted that continued to tear with 60 grit sandpaper. I tried the thin CA glue method and didn't like the results because the CA glued areas telegraphed through the finish. I especially notice it in the bottoms of pieces where I tried to stabilize the pith with CA glue. The areas with CA glue looked shinier and slightly different in color from the rest of the piece and I couldn't get it out no matter how deeply I sanded. Maybe the CA glue would be less noticeable if I applied glossier finishes. As always, you mileage may vary...

You might want to try thinning your finish down to a water-like consistency so that it really soaks into the wood. Apply several coats and make sure you give it some extra time to dry after the final pre-coat. This pre-coat will help support the wood for either re-turning or easier sanding. Once you are happy with the pieces, you can apply a base coat of finish to even things out a bit. After that you can apply whatever you like over the base coat (assuming the materials are compatible). Then your final finish will more closely match the color and sheen of the pre-finish+base coat areas.

I'm sorry for being long-winded:eek:

[Tom Storey]

For wood in that state, when I'm ready to sand, I've flooded it with a product called PC-Petrifier Wood Hardner and I've also used yellow glue well thinned with water. It is important to soak the wood well in the first coat of hardener so it penetrates well below the surface as future coats will not penetrate well after the initial coat has dryed and sealed the surface. Even with that treatment I've had to accept some pitting depending on how soft and punky the wood was at the start. I've also found that fine sandpaper lightly applied tears out punky wood less than does coarse paper.

fwiw, Tomhttp://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon7.gif

[Phillip Bogle]

I started with a 10" bowl and before I ended up with a 4" candy dish I figured I better do something else.

I slowed the lathe to the very bottom. Lowered the rest. Sharpened the gouge. All of that made a big difference but not what I wanted. My supplier suggested sanding sealer, so that is what is on it now. Looks like it will work like CA but the coat is total, and supposed to improve and even the finish. I will let you know how it looks after a day of drying. That stuff is supposed to be dry in 30 minutes but 8 hours later and just now dry. It REALLY penetrated the wood. I was told if you want deep penetration with the SS use some DNA mixed in. Anyway If you are interested I will let you know how it works.

[Jeff Nicol]

Brent, I picked this up off of one of Jimmy Clewes videos and it will work very well. Thin the shellac about 70% alchohol and 30% shellac and soak that in a few times. Then rechuck them and turn again using a very sharp 1/4" bowl or spindle gouge to get the smallest finest cut you can. You will have stiffened the punky spots but not filled in the other areas like CA would have done. Then I will do a final few very light shear scrapes to even it out then sand. Punky and pretty wood like what you have takes some extra TLC to make it work! I do it all the time and have had great luck with it. Give it a try.

Jeff

[Brent Grooms]

Thanks everyone for the advise. I have a couple more chunks of this (the smaller one is about vollyball sized) so I better turn off a couple of spares/ samples to try stuff on.

Jeff... what was the starting point on the shellac?1lb ... 2lb... dewaxed?

Thanks!