Router and router table question

[Louis Brandt]

Hello,

I’m still just a hobbyist when it comes to woodworking, but I am coming along. I have most of the necessary tools in my “shop” (garage). I have a router table, and I’m getting ready to buy a router for it.

My question is, do any of you use your router and router table to “make” or “modify” molding? What I mean is, suppose that I wanted to create or modify some “cap” or “chair rail” molding with a detail that I couldn’t find locally. I’m talking about the kind of molding that you’d use at the top of wainscoting, etc.

Is this something that I could expect to do with a router in a table, or is this beyond the scope of that tool?

I know that some of you will tell me that a shaper or table saw is the best tool for this, but I don’t have either one, and I don’t plan on buying either in the near future.

Thanks,
Louis

[Julian Wong]

Louis, you definitely do not need a shaper to make or modify those mouldings. Even a regular 1-3/4hp router in a table would be able to handle most jobs. You don't need a 3-1/2hp router unless you plan to make raised panel doors with large 3" bits.

The chair rail moulding you're referring to can be made very simply with 1-2 router bits. I have made many mnouldings like chair rail profiles with a router in a table and you don't need a shaper.

When you mount tour router in a table, with a fence, you have opened up a new world of profiles you can make. Some bit profiles even let you make miltiple profiles depending on height setting and/or angle of feed.

[Peter Quinn]

I have made plenty of moldings, including wainscot cap, on a router table. It takes a bit of creativity and possibly more passes, maybe even more sanding, but it can be done with good results. I use a 3 1/4 HP router in my main table. i suppose you can get it done with a 1 1/2HP router, but they aren't really made to spin bigger bits that might come in handy for molding production. I also have a shaper, and that is a more straight forward and quick way to produce mass quantities of moldings, often in a single pass with a knife ground to profile, but it is not essential for a small shop.

Another thing to consider is making up complex profiles by stacking smaller profiles run on a router and gluing them together, possibly with the aid of rabbits as guides between layers.

Without a TS though, the possibilities are seriously limited, and modifying stock profiles may be your only option. With a router or shaper, I typically mold wider stock on each edge and rip off the profile to create the desired effect, creating the necessary lineal footage in a series of run and rip operations. No TS means no ripping, and that's difficult to overcome. I have a decent cabinet saw now, but I got started with a bench top makita 8" TS that I bought used for $90, which is cheaper than my cheapest router, so I might suggest the addition of a modets TS when possible to expand your capability. I have actually broken down full sheets of MDF on that crazy little TS in a pinch!