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View Full Version : Cermark spray can vs air brush



Albert Nix
06-14-2009, 7:04 AM
I have read a lot of post about cermark but have'nt seen this answered. I have been using the spray can with fairly good results so far but have been thinking about tring an air brush in hopes of saving on Cermark. I am sure you can get a more uniform coverage but my question is how long will the mix last if you don't use it? Can you store it? If so is there a prefered way?
Al

Mike Null
06-14-2009, 8:30 AM
Albert

Do a Google search and you'll turn up many threads on this subject. Here's one. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=62406

Frank Corker
06-14-2009, 2:55 PM
Albert, definitely read the link above it will tell you all about it. The benefits of it not coming in the can is that it won't be useless if it clogs up (and apparently it will). I wouldn't recommend that you make too big a batch if I were you, but I do have a small amount made up, stir it and spray and it has been fine for a couple of weeks that I know of. I think you will get more for your money by mixing your own if you only use small amounts at a time. (Someone will undoubtedly disagree I'm sure... see below)

Albert Nix
06-14-2009, 9:20 PM
I have read most of the post about cermark. I have had good luck with spray cans but figure that I can maybe get a thinner more even coat with an air brush. I do not have a problem with the nozzel clogging sense I started flushing the nozzel with water. My main question was how long will it last after you mix it. I know you can increase the pot life of paint buy putting it in the frig. My use of cermark is varied I may go a week or a month without using it. Thanks Frank and Mike I will use your input as a reference. If I am looking at a week or two pot life, I may stay with the spray can.

Joe Hayes
06-15-2009, 7:29 AM
Alex - I am not sure how many months a mix will last but I mix up a good sized batch each time. I would guess it to last at least 6 month and possibly longer (1 year ??) The key issue will be to keep the DNA from evaporating, - use a good container. I use a plastic container with a good tight top that screws on.
As you know the CerMark will settle out. I mainly go by look and how it sprays and then add DNA to get it back to a normal mix if it has dried some.
Always mix well and keep mixing as you do your jobs

Albert Nix
06-15-2009, 8:32 AM
Thanks Joe, maybe I will give it a try. That was the answer that I was hoping to hear.

Tim Bateson
06-15-2009, 9:08 AM
(Someone will undoubtedly disagree I'm sure... see below)

I'll be the one to disagree with Frank! :D Actually, I'm no expert with Cermark, I only act like one in my own shop. :p I've only done half dozen Cermark jobs in the past 16 months, not worth my time to use anything other than the spray can. No clogging yet. I do clear the nozzel after every use - turn upside down and waste a bit of Cermark.

If I were to use it more often then by all means use the air brush.

Richard Rumancik
06-15-2009, 11:56 AM
I find that the Cermark seems to settle out and harden a bit even in a closed airbrush jar. But I just add a bit of DNA and stir it up if I haven't used it in 6 months. If you let it go hard it will be more difficult to dissolve it again. I have used Cermark that was a few years old with no problems.

Another way to save on Cermark is to use a "mask" as a spray guide. I use thin clear Mylar, and cut a rough shape enclosing the graphic. I hold it in front of the part, and airbrush the opening in the mask. This also saves a lot of cleanup of the part and overspray into the air. If you think it is worth it, you could recover the Cermark off the mask when it gets thick and re-dissolve it in DNA. I haven't really bothered to recover it but some people do. It peals off Mylar easily.

It is simple to make the mask; I just create a "mask" layer, draw a crude boundary around the graphic (leave some margin for tolerance and positioning errors), create an outer rectangle (try to give yourself a positioning reference or marks, to help align it with the part). Make a couple of them while you are at it.

In once case I mounted the mask on a "stand" so I could just hold the part behind it and spray.

Albert Nix
06-15-2009, 12:20 PM
Thanks guys. Yeah I Tim I turn my can upside down too to clean the nozzle but I hate to waste anything so I keep something handy to catch the over spray. I do some data plates on stainless from time to time so I usually let one of those take the hit. I pull the nozzle off the can and rinse it with water also.
Al

Trevor Watson
06-24-2009, 9:25 AM
Richard how do you mean saves on cleanup ? every cermark job i have done
all I do is run the item under hotwater when finished and it disolves and runs away no scrubbing needed... Was at the Vegas Trade show bought
some of the new Cermark mixes out there for glass (Red, Green and Yellow) also the Bronze sample pot for metal.. What I find with airbrushing these on vrs a Spray can you can use a very thin / translucent layer so I tend to mix up smaller batches at a time can always mix more rather than risk throwing it away when it becomes unusable though to this day have never had any left overs if secured in airtight jar ever go off on me ..

Trevor

Brian Robison
06-24-2009, 11:30 AM
Use Thermark in the can instead. It doesn't clog up.
I've used it and Cermark every which way but I'm
happiest just shooting Thermark right out of the can.
Time is money too.

Richard Rumancik
06-26-2009, 10:29 AM
Richard how do you mean saves on cleanup ? every cermark job i have done
all I do is run the item under hotwater when finished and it disolves and runs away no scrubbing needed...

What I mean is that a Cermark mask ensures that the Cermark goes where you want it. I do stainless knives once in awhile - I don't want Cermark on the handle and I don't want overspray behind. Also, I don't want any Cermark on the plastic or wood surfaces. (They could discolor or react.)

I've also marked multi-tools; if you get Cermark all over them it will not be fun washing them off and drying them after. I try to minimize the extra work in clean up by being careful where I put it in the first place.

I'd rather have the excess hit the mask and turn to solid than go into the air. (I do have a little "paint booth" that I use with an exhaust fan.)

There was a demo in a magazine recently showing how to laser a stainless flask - they sprayed the ENTIRE side of the flask in free air to do a logo in the centre. They used rubber gloves so they did not get Cermark (Thermark?) on their hands. Seems like a waste of chemical to me. Sure, it will wash off.

With a mask, I can put the Cermark where I need it and I don't get it on my hands, all over the part, and into the air.

Gary and Jessica Houghton
06-26-2009, 10:52 AM
What I mean is that a Cermark mask ensures that the Cermark goes where you want it. I do stainless knives once in awhile - I don't want Cermark on the handle and I don't want overspray behind. Also, I don't want any Cermark on the plastic or wood surfaces. (They could discolor or react.)


I typically do this old school and use a paper towel to mask off the handle of my knife. Then I can use that same paper towel to get wet and wipe off the cermark.



There was a demo in a magazine recently showing how to laser a stainless flask - they sprayed the ENTIRE side of the flask in free air to do a logo in the centre. They used rubber gloves so they did not get Cermark (Thermark?) on their hands. Seems like a waste of chemical to me. Sure, it will wash off.

With a mask, I can put the Cermark where I need it and I don't get it on my hands, all over the part, and into the air.

I typically have the exhaust fan on the laser on when I spray an item. It takes care of the fumes. I try to spray the item into a box (i.e. put the item in a box, spray then take out). I then place the item into the laser to dry the cermark faster. As for spraying your hands, my husband says it burns his hands when he gets it on him. I've never had that problem and don't care whether or not I get dirty. It washes off just fine. (to each their own)

I have not used cermark in an airbrush, but did try to use it with the item that laserbits sells. I didn't like how quickly it evaporated or hardened. I went back to using the spray. As for the glass solution, I personally have had bad luck with this and refuse to use it. I might give another try sometime, but not anytime soon.