router tables set-up

[Corvin Alstot]

How many people use a router lift under the table versus just keeping costs down and doing without.?<O:p</O:p

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How many use a enclosure beneath the table to surround the router - to pull dust down as well as sufficient dust control to make the tool quiet and easier to use.
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I need to get started with putting together a router table but would like to keep it simple. Any thoughts on this issue?

[David Rose]

Corvin,

My router table is enclosed with a small plenum for air intake. I checked out several routers when I was building it and went with a Dewalt 625 greatly because it had less runout than any others I checked at Woodcraft. The table also has a tilt top. Since the router is attached directly to the top, it is needed for bit changes. The table is the larger one that Bill Hylton shows in one of his books. It was one of my first furniture projects so I wanted a lot of hand holding. His plans are very detailed.

A Router Raizer was soon added for fine tuning depth from the top.

The top sagged after a couple of years, so bracing was added. I have ordered a piece of 5/16" steel plate which will replace the router's aluminum base to get me about 3/4" higher in the table. Many bits barely seat deeply enough as is.

David

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

If you're in this for the long haul...

Over the years, I've built two or three 'make do' router tables...just basic enough to get the job done. I've also put 'reasonable' effort into building a couple of nice tables. For these tables I spent much time trying to build a flat top, and building fences and jigs and what not to make them more functional.

Somewhere along the journey, I paid money for a 'real' table insert...then almost immediately went looking for a better one. Only in the past couple years did I spend money on a 'real' fence (BenchDog). After pooh-poohing the fancy router lifts as a 'fad' for quite some time, we got one at the mesquite outfit in an Xacta saw package...and it took about one height adjustment to sell me on THAT idea.

A week or so ago I spent a great deal of money on a two-table setup...routers, lifts, phenolic tops, base/stands, quality fences, and appropriate hold-downs and accessories. I suspect if I added up the time and money I spent over the years on home built stuff, I'd wonder why I didn't just 'buy it' to begin with.

KC

[Martin Shupe]

Benchdog top, lift, and fence. PC 7518

I built the cabinet, with highly modified Norm plans. No dust collection yet, but someday, when I get my stand alone shop... :rolleyes:

I plumbed it for dust collection, but still need to build the front door.

The Bench Dog stuff is expensive, but worth it, IMHO.

[Greg Heppeard]

I currently own the Bench Dog system with the Triton router. I don't have a lift and wanted to save cost. It works just fine, but, since seeing the newest addition to the Jessum family...I think I would have gone that way with the new lift top, fence, slider, and made my own cabinet. I probably would have gotten the PC 7518 to fit it.

[Tom Hintz]

I also have gone through a few iterations of router tables and finally came up with one that incorporates the things I liked in past versions, plus added a lift which I am very happy I did.
Dust collection currently is through the fence only but does a very good job. At some point I will add a door and port tot he cavity below the router just to see how it works, but the amount of dust coming through there is minimal.
See the links below for a review of the lift and photos of the table. Perhaps there is an idea or two for you there.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/rtrtblpln.html

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/rfxrvu.html

[JayStPeter]

I'm with KC. I'm currently on my 4th ... well, I can't call them router tables per se, but let's just say hanging router. First was simply a piece of MDF with another acting as the fence. Second was a tabletop unit to add DC. The third was a disaster start of a real table to use an Incra system. But, the insert and table itself were cheap and incapable of the fine positioning required by the Incra. My current "in progress" table is a cabinet with a 3'x4' top that uses a plungelift and bent wrench for an almost completely above table exerience. I have also replaced the Incra with a Jointech. A good flat table and insert and good DC are the two goals you should shoot for. The fence can be changed/modified in the future.
As for your DC comments: I find myself using the table for things that a handheld would do well just because of the DC. DC will be the #1 issue on my next handheld router purchase.

Jay

Jay

[Steven Wilson]

I built a modified version of Norms table with a Bench Dog top, fence, and insert and a PC 7518; a very satisfactory system with outstanding dust collection and plenty of storage. A couple of years later, when the lifts came out, I installed a Bench Dog ProLiftNI and it was a very nice improvement to an already great setup. With the lift it is very easy to achieve greater precision when setting bit heights; I'm very satisfied with the combination.

[Steve Clardy]

I currently have 1 in my table saw ext., 2 small independent tables, and this one pictured that is set up with dial routers. It has dust control on it. This one is just a homemade affair set on an old kitchen cabinet base. I need one more, so maybe this winter I plan on remaking the dual table into one that will hold three routers.
I do not use router lifts, and have no plans on purchasing one, though they do look handy. Most of my router tables are dedicated to jobs, and thus the need for another one for general work, different bits, for different jobs. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=11118

[Jim Becker]

I'm on my second router table and this one has a lift for my PC7518. (Route-R-Lift). My next one will also have a lift, but I'll be moving to the cast iron BenchDog. Lifts are expensive, but I like the easy adjustment they provide. I can understand that many folks can't justify the cost, but for me, it was a good investment.

[Corvin Alstot]

I am surprised by the number of people that are already on their second or third+ generation of router tables. I guess most are starting off with a basic system-table top and fence, and then redoing or changing approaches as their needs or skills dictate greater requirements.

[Jim Becker]

I am surprised by the number of people that are already on their second or third+ generation of router tables.
My original router table was a reclaimed microwave stand. It provided the utility I needed while I determined what my wants and needs really were for a router table. Interestingly enough, it's still in use, but as a support for my G1276 combo sander.

[Corvin Alstot]

I'm on my second router table and this one has a lift for my PC7518. (Route-R-Lift). My next one will also have a lift, but I'll be moving to the cast iron BenchDog.
Is a flat work surface that critical, or are you trying to minimize floor space by incorporating the router into the table saw? How do you plan to handle dust control with this set-up?

[David Rose]

Corvin, I'm not Jim, and he may have a different idea, but... I believe the work surface is very critical. Cut some rails and stiles on a "non" flat table and you will see what I mean. For many things, it's not a big deal. For others, the closer the better.

David


Is a flat work surface that critical, or are you trying to minimize floor space by incorporating the router into the table saw? How do you plan to handle dust control with this set-up?

[JayStPeter]

Is a flat work surface that critical, or are you trying to minimize floor space by incorporating the router into the table saw? How do you plan to handle dust control with this set-up?

I'm with David on this. My third router table should've been the last, but neither the table or insert were flat and caused many problems.

Jay

[Cecil Arnold]

I started with a cheap J.C. Penny's portable table (do you remember when Penny's sold hardware?) and a Sears router that clamped to the bottom. After many trials and tribulations I now have a modified Norm table and a woodpeck lift perminently mounted to a Freud router. Wish I had started with the current set-up, would have saved much time, materials and money.

[Monte Milanuk]

I've made parts of a couple tops, but have never quite ended up w/ things working out to where the whole table got finished. Either I botched something along the way, changed my mind and didn't like how it was going to work once I got into the details, or something else came up and the project got put aside. Procrastination is an art form, ya know ;)

I guess my question is this: Is there a need for dedicated router lift kits w/ some of the newer routers coming w/ under-table height adjustment built in, such as the PC890 and the Milwaukee 5625? As I understand it, those basically are set up for mounting right to a regular router plate, w/ an additional hole for the crank, yes? Maybe not a production grade solution, but it seems like it'd be more cost effective for the weekend woodworker than several hundred dollars for just a router motor body and then several hundred more just for the lift? Don't get me wrong; I don't begrudge anyone who wants to spend whatever on their hobbies and passions.

Monte

[Jim Becker]

Is a flat work surface that critical, or are you trying to minimize floor space by incorporating the router into the table saw? How do you plan to handle dust control with this set-up?
My router table is not incorporated into my table saw...perhaps you're thinking about a new BenchDog product that subsitutes for a TS wing--I was refering to their lift product, not the wing. I personally don't like router workstations incorporated into the TS for my own work, but can understand why it's a good solution in some shops. If I did have to do that, I'd prefer in the left-wing area...something that's nearly impossible to do with a left-tilt saw like I use.

A flat surface is always important, no matter what function you are looking at in the shop, including the router table. You should always strive for the flattest surfaces you can get.

I prefer a large table top on the router table...mine is 36" wide by 24" deep. The cabinet below is not all that different from the NYW and Bill Hylton designs other than in how I handled dust collection. For that, I have a 4" port on the cabinet, a small slot in the bottom of the router cubby door to provide "sweep" air and a hole in the tabletop behind the bit area that lines up with an elongated hood on the fence. This eliminates any hoses from the cabinet to the fence, making fence adjustment/installation/removal easier. I do not have a miter slot in my current table top. Switching to the BenchDog lift (or anything smaller than my current Rout-R-Lift) will allow space for that in a future design. I use a traditional split fence design...'haven't found the need for one of the incremental fence systems to-date, although they are very nice.

[Dave Moran]

Hi CorvinI have the old Jess-M router lift on mine with a PC 7518 When you figure what you will have invested in bits over a few years, the lift and the router become a very small part of the investment. Just make sure that your lift adjustment is such that you are able to access it no mater where the fence is DAMHIKT!! give lpenty of support to the top particuarly near the cutout. Mine is still flat 0.003 over 24" after 2 years. I use paper screw posts as leveling jacks, they just happen to take an 8-32 set screw. They are available at large stationary stores.

Dave

[George Summers]

My first, original, only router table is a dumpster find. The wing of an office desk. I extended the two legs that came on it and added the other two. I enclosed the knee area for a plenum with a 4" DC outlet and have a 2½" DC hose on the fence. The drawers give me storage. I got a $10 switched outlet from the big box and run the router cord to it (it is wired to go to the wall outlet). I can use the outlet for other tools when need be. I do not have a router lift. To me, it is nothing to lift the router out to change bits and rough adjust for height. I can fine adjust for height with a crank handle on the M12V in the table. For the cost of a router lift, I could buy another toy for the shop. The fence is homemade from scrap so I have a grand total of about $40 in the table ($10 for the outlet and $30 for the insert).

http://www.shoptours.org/member2/gs-router-table.jpg

George