skew plane/filister plane question

[Jacob Mac]

I recently began learning to hand cut dovetails. I decided to buy the 3 dvd set that rob Cosman offers (along with the shop manual). In the manual, Cosman suggests using a skew block plane on the inside of the tailboards. I have a few questions about this approach:

1. How many people use this approach, and how beneficial is it?;

2. If beneficial, what plane do you suggest I use? Rob uses a LN skew block plane. And I know LV has a skew rabbet plane. Are there any other options?; and

3. What other uses are there for a plane like this? I enjoy the neandder side of ww much more than the power tool side. So if getting a skew rabbet plane is a versatile tool that has lots of applications, then I will pull the trigger on getting one. But if it is a one trick pony, maybe my money would be spent better elsewhere.


Presently, I am focusing on casework, and making furniture for all of my bedrooms.

Thanks for all of the help.

Jacob

[Jim Koepke]

Not having seen the video, it is not in my nature to make comments on the methods shown.

I have used a shoulder plane to put a shallow rabbet on the tail board. Have only done it a couple of times and not sure that there is any advantage to doing it this way.

Consider, that for many generations wood workers have made dovetails without using anything but saws and chisels, it is not an absolute necessity to use a skewed block plane to accomplish a quality dovetail. It could come in handy to trim the pins and tails when the joint is finished.

We now return you to our regularly scheduled debate on whether we should cut pins of tails first...


jim

[Robert Rozaieski]

I've seen the method used and I can understand how it COULD be helpful, but ONLY if the rabbet is perfectly parallel to the end of the board and/or perfectly square to the edge of the board. If it's not, it will actually throw your joint into twist which is not a good thing.

Personally I don't use the technique, however, a skew rabbet plane (or square rabbet plane for that matter) is very useful in a hand tool shop. You need it to cut rabbets for one and the skew plane excells at cross grain rabbets. I also use a fenced and an unfenced skew rabbet to make raised panels. And an unfenced square rabbet is helpful for roughing in moldings before using hollows and rounds to finish them.

IMO, rabbet planes are essential in the hand tool shop.

[David Keller NC]

"1. How many people use this approach, and how beneficial is it?;

If you're a newbie, or if your stock is not perfectly squared and parallel, it's very helpful. Once you get good at it, I suspect you'll find that it's superfluous.


2. If beneficial, what plane do you suggest I use? Rob uses a LN skew block plane. And I know LV has a skew rabbet plane. Are there any other options?;

Short answer - no. You need a fence on the plane to cut this accurately, and a non-skewed blade will have a tendency to blow out the grain on the side of the piece that's being rabbeted. You can do this with a few of the Stanley antiques, but they generally all cost more than the new ones from L-N or Lee Valley.


3. What other uses are there for a plane like this? I enjoy the neandder side of ww much more than the power tool side. So if getting a skew rabbet plane is a versatile tool that has lots of applications, then I will pull the trigger on getting one. But if it is a one trick pony, maybe my money would be spent better elsewhere.

Among many uses, one thing you can do with the Lie Nielsen planes, and perhaps with the Lee Valleys, is cut fielded, raised panels with them.

[Jacob Mac]

Thanks for the answers. I think I'm going to get either a LN or a LV and at least try the technique out.

Since I am a newbie at the neander side, I will use the technique for now and see if I outgrow it.

Any thoughts on whether the LN or LV is a better all around rabbet plane? I realize this is subjective, but I would appreciate it if anyone could share their experiences.

[Ben Davis]

Thanks for the answers. I think I'm going to get either a LN or a LV and at least try the technique out.

Since I am a newbie at the neander side, I will use the technique for now and see if I outgrow it.

Any thoughts on whether the LN or LV is a better all around rabbet plane? I realize this is subjective, but I would appreciate it if anyone could share their experiences.
They are both high quality tools. Purchase the one you like better. From a performance standpoint, there is likely zero difference.

[David Keller NC]

You -might- get better resale value out of the Lie Nielsens, but probably only slightly. The only reason is that LNs show up a lot more on fleabay, so the value is a known quantity. It might be tha the Lee Valleys have a bit more capacity because you can get longer fence rods. The Lie Nielsen planes might be a bit easier to use on smaller (narrower) drawersides, as they're block planes with a short sole and low center of gravity.

Pretty much comes down to preference, really.

[Mat Ashton]

Unless LV is planing to release a skew angle block plane real soon I'd be getting the LN before I got the LV skew plane(s). It's much more multipurpose plane than the LVs.

[Jacob Mac]

Unless LV is planing to release a skew angle block plane real soon I'd be getting the LN before I got the LV skew plane(s). It's much more multipurpose plane than the LVs.

Mat,

At the risk of sounding obtuse, would you mind explaining why that is?

Thanks