Todays Accomplishment

[harry strasil]

I played Blacksmith Today.

2 inch 4 thd tap.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/tap.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/tap001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/tap002.jpg

nice knot on the backside of that chunk of old oak I didn't see, cheater time.

[glenn bradley]

That is sweet Harry. I envy your skills.

[harry strasil]

its not for me, its for my friend Don Peterson.

[Jim Koepke]

Very nice. Did you do that all with heat, hammer and anvil?

jim

[Bill Keehn]

Hey Harry, that's pretty cool. I like it.

I was designing one of these in my head today. I've got antique tap (and threadbox) that's about 2" in diameter and about 3 TPI. It looks like it was made by a black smith. The tap is fairly crude and dull though, so I've been thinking about trying to make a new one the old fashioned way, or maybe trying my hand at a more modern technique.

Now all you need to do is make the threadbox :)

[Bill Keehn]

By the way, what did you lubricate that oak with?

[harry strasil]

Jim, No hammer and anvil, used the remove the waste method, turning lathe, instead of the rearrange the molecules method.

Bill, no lube, I tried BLo, but it gummed up the shavings and filled the gullets, I had better luck dry, the shavings fell out the bottom, but that knot I didn't see, made for hard cutting. LOL

The tap is not for me, but for my friend Don Peterson, he will use the tap to make his own screwbox. If I were doing it myself I would use a 1/4 inch solid carbide 60° router bit in my die grinder in my metal cutting lathe, similar to a beal threader.

For those interested in doing there own bench screws, a tap and die for 2 inch metal bolts is 4 ½ threads per inch.

[Don C Peterson]

Now I just have to schedule some time to get up there and pick it up...

I'm trying to make a new leg vise for a bench at Missouri Town 1855, and while I have the 1 1/2" tap from Beal, I felt like it was too small for a leg vise of the period. I've been doing some looking around and a new tap that big was going to cost at least $300. I found some used ones on fleabay in the $100 range. So I called Jr. to get his thoughts.

Next thing I know he's sending me pictures of the tap he whipped up, and when I asked him if he'd mind making another one for me and how much he would want for it, he informed me that that WAS for me and that I just needed to come get it.

Thanks Jr., this is another case of it's not what you know it's who...

[george wilson]

Wood threads are coarser than metal threads,and should have 90 degree sides,rather than 60 degree sides. A 2" tap should cut 3 threads per inch. These coarser,and "blunter" threads are to keep the wooden threads from breaking easily. If you ever lay hands on an old wooden thread handscrew clamp,take note of how many threads per inch it has for its diameter.

Being from a museum background,I am talking about authentic original thread specs. However,those old thread specs for wood were developed through years of experience with wood,and I think it wise to follow the specs that were established over a long time period. They are especially for wood.

Our modern coarse threads were established for cast iron. The fine thread series were established for steel. Since cast iron threads are coarser than steel threads due to cast iron being more brittle,and easier to break than steel,it follows that wooden threads should be coarser yet.

I don't feel that I explained this very clearly. I am not running Harry's tap down.It is a very nice job. My remarks are intended to help those interested in wooden threads. All the Beale taps are too fine,and their wooden threads would hold up longer,and look more authentic,if they were made coarser.