Request for Powermatic 14" Bandsaw Feedback

[Ned Ladner]

I'm researching 14" bandsaws for my hobby woodworking shop to be used for curve cutting and resawing. Powermatic seems to be a top brand in woodworking power tools but I'm getting mixed reviews on their 14" bandsaw. There have been issues noted with the riser blocks but that appears to have been resolved. FWW noted issues with misalignment of the wheels that could not be fixed with shims (not enough shaft length).

I would like for anyone who has PERSONAL experience with these bandsaws to provide feedback, positive or negative, to assist in my decision making process.

Thanks in advance for your response.

[Peter Quinn]

I have had the 14" PM BS for about 4 1/2 years now, seems the price has gone WAY up since then, I paid $599 on sale! In any event it is a fine machine in the 14" weight class. I have not had any problems with either the riser block or wheel alignment. It resaws like a champ with a good blade, handles curves well, runs pretty smooth overall. The roller guides and quick tension release are both quite handy too.

One problem that does exist is the belt tensioning / drive pulley alignment. PM uses a multi v belt that runs pretty smooth and doesn't slip under load, but the motor mount is CRAPOLA. It forces you to make both pulley alignment adjustments and belt tension adjustments simultaneously while working on your knees in a cramped cabinet. Not fun, and if the pulley alignment isn't right on with a multi V belt, off it comes. The Jet BS's use a standard V pulley but suffers from the same motor mount issue.

Fortunately creeker Bill Huber I believe devised a solution to this problem, so if you get one, take a look at his motor mount upgrade post.

If I were going to buy another 14" BS in this price range, it would be the same one.

[Kevin Hartnett]

Well, I don't know about the PM 14" bandsaw, but I recently purchased a new Grizzly G0555X 14" BS and I love it. Out of the box the wheels were dead on, the blade tracks perfectly with very little lead. I don't anticipate using it for very fine cuts just now so I haven't worked on correcting the lead yet. The table extension wasn't flat so I called Grizzly and they shipped a replacement the next day, no charge.

The saw does everything it was advertised to do and does it well. I'd recommend getting some new blades and throwing away the blade that ships with the saw (at least for the Grizzly.) I got a really good twofer deal on 5/8" 3 tpi blades on this forum a few weeks back, with free delivery -- and now I can't remember the name of the company. But I digress. Give the Grizzly a look before deciding on Powermatic.

Kevin H.

[Mike Lipke]

How much resawing and how high will the stock be? Even with the riser blocks, the 14" models are not up to the job, compared to a 17" or 19" models with 2-3 hp.
I just sold my 14 jet with riser, because of the above. Jet is not significantly different than than the PM, except for accessories. Frame, stand, motor mounting, etc is the same.

[Tom Hintz]

I used the Powermatic 14" bandsaw in my shop for a few years and loved it. Then I got a chance at an 18" JET (triangluar column) and my bigger is better instinct won out.
The Powermatic is a class machine with lots of power and a list of standard features other companies often consider to be aftermarket pieces. The wheel alignment thing noted by some magazine reviewers came from them measuring the wheels without a load on them. The Powermatic has a slight tilt built in that goes away when tension is applied to the blade. Many others are coplanar without a load and go slightly out with a load. After seeing this "problem" in print I was able to duplilcate that measurement error on several Powermatic 14" saws in my area, all of which went to near perfect with the proper tension applied to the blade.
The riser issue has been fixed for quite a while and wasn't all that bad to start with. A lot of people didn't even realize they had an issue until someone told them but it's fixed now regardless.

I have a full review of the Powermatic 14" saw with lots of photos and a video at the link below if that would help.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/pm14bsrvu.html

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I have one with a riser and think it's a great machine. I also bought it cheap. No problem with power, cuts straight and stays straight after you set it up. I have a Kreg aftermarket fence and a rockler table, although I dont use the rockler table. It cuts out ALMOST an inch of resaw capacity. Yes there are bigger and better out there, but I think if you pick it up on sale, the bang for the buck is outstanding. They come with roller guides and a blade release. Wheel brushes. Air blower (not that functional). Smooth and powerful. 1.5 horse? I can't remember. Plenty to cut the full height.
How often do you plan to resaw something over 12 inch? If teh answer is often, you'll need more money and a bigger machine.
Oh yeah, I did notice the offset. It's not a problem, but it does exist. The riser would make this more pronounced. Probably why I did notiice.

[Lewis Cobb]

I second the motor mount modification that another poster referred to. I actually made the modification before I even turned the saw on for the first time as I could see the belt tensioning would be a source of much swearing otherwise. It's not really a modification - more an addtion of a small wood part that prevents the motor from going crooked when you try and slide it down and tighten the belt.

Have not had a lot of use on my PM14 yet but there were no issues putting it together or lining things up.

Oh, I also made a little "fixed base" for it to get it off the concrete. I didn't like the idea of sliding it around on the concrete floor so a piece of MDF and some hockey pucks solved that. I plan to make a mobile base in the future but until my welding skills are better, this will have to do.

Cheers,
Lewis


Here's a picture of the motor mount improvement referred to above
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn286/LHC_02/Bandsaw/145_45281.jpg

And here's a picture of my "fixed base". I got a bit out of control and painted it too.

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn286/LHC_02/Bandsaw/BandsawBase11.jpg

[Lance Norris]

Consider a steel framed saw in the same price class as the Powermatic before you buy anything. They tension blades better for resawing because the backbone has more rigidity. I have the Grizzly G0457 and its an excellent saw. The Grizzly 513 series is also in the same budget class as the Powermatic and gets fantastic reviews. Just food for thought.

http://grizzly.com/products/14-2-HP-Deluxe-Bandsaw/G0457

http://grizzly.com/products/17-Bandsaw-2HP-w-Cast-Iron-Trunnion/G0513X2

[Eric DeSilva]

You are saying that a steel framed saw has more rigidity than the cast iron frame of the PM? Really?

I like Grizzly, but that claim seems like it's pushing it. Maybe I've got my materials science wrong, but hollow steel v. solid cast iron?

PS. Just another thought--I picked up my PM 14" BS on CL for $675. The table was out of alignment, but that was easy to fix. I swear it had never been used, and it came with an additional 3 new blades. Might try looking second hand.

[Ned Ladner]

Lewis,

I don't see the pictures that you referenced.

[Cary Falk]

[QUOTE=Eric DeSilva;1153065]You are saying that a steel framed saw has more rigidity than the cast iron frame of the PM? Really?

I like Grizzly, but that claim seems like it's pushing it. Maybe I've got my materials science wrong, but hollow steel v. solid cast iron?

QUOTE]

Solid cast iron? If hollow steel is not more ridgid than hollow cast iron then why are all of the modern day resaw bandsaws steel instead of cast iron? I have always read that a 14" cast iron bandsaw cannot properly tension large saw blades because there is too much flex in the frame.

[Lewis Cobb]

Lewis,

I don't see the pictures that you referenced.


Hi Ned - they are showing up ok here. Not sure what it could be. Anyone else see or not see them ?

[Brian W Evans]

I have the PM, which I bought nearly new on CL for $600. I have since added the riser block (no problems with alignment) and the Kreg fence. I've resawn 6-8" stuff with no problems. I haven't yet put a really small blade on for fine work, though.

I had to disassemble it to get it home and didn't have any of the motor mount problems described by the others when I put it back together. That being said, I wouldn't want to do it again - it's cramped in there!

The Carter guides and tension-release are very nice and would be pricey if you added them yourself.

I don't know if I'd pay retail for one today, but for $600, I'd buy it again in a heartbeat.

[Eric DeSilva]

Interesting. Hadn't realized that the PM wasn't a solid frame, but guess that makes sense. If it was, it would weigh a friggin' ton.

I'm not sure I follow your logic, at least the "then why are all of the modern day resaw bandsaws steel instead of cast iron." Modern is not equivalent to better--some old cast iron WW gear is quite prized. Besides, I thought the reason larger saws weren't cast iron was because it was cost-prohibitive (and probably weight prohibitive).

Intuitively, it seems to me that cast iron breaks, steel flexes, so I wouldn't expect deflection from cast iron, but I could be wrong. At the end of the day, I suspect it may well have to do with how much steel you have and how much iron you have, as opposed to simply steel v. cast iron.

That said, I haven't had any issues tensioning my PM, although I don't tend to use huge blades...

[bob hertle]

Eric,

You seem to still have doubts about steel vs. cast iron. Assume 2 bandsaw spines of exactly the same cross section. Deflection in bending, (and torsion for that matter) is proportional to Youngs modulus (modulus of elastcity). For steel the value is 28 x 10^6 psi. For atsm grade 40 cast iron the modulus is 17 x 10^6 psi. So, the steel machine is 1.64 times as stiff as the cast iron machine. So, from the material property perspective, steel is superior.

Now, look at the problem as it is affected by geometry. All the welded steel machines I've seen have spines that are much deeper than the cast machines. Stiffness increases with the cube of the section depth (moment of inertia). Also, welded steel machines have a spine that is a totally closed section. This provides extremely high torsional stiffness. The old cast frame Delta 14's had a closed section spine, but the newer 14's have open sections like the pic. The diagonal bracing cast into the newer spines is an attempt to increase the torsional stiffness. Not as good as the old closed section.

Where cast iron really shines, is its ability to dampen vibration. However, a properly designed steel frame can achieve vibration free running under normal conditions as well.

I offer all of the above, simply for information. I am not disparaging the venerable cast iron 14 inch bandsaw--too many woodworkers before us have built some mighty fine funiture with these machines. As for the big cast iron machines like Crescent, Tannewitz, and many more--they are in a totally different class than the 14's.

Regards
Bob

[Kyle Iwamoto]

The steel vs cast designs is pretty moot. They both have strong points. My 2 cents is the steel is indeed stronger. But, what you got is what you got. The cast can be modified, and many do add that riser. Maybe you need the depth and not the height of cut. The advantage is the compactness. The steel frame is a big machine. Maybe that's what you want. Me, I need the space. Everything in my garage is on wheels. Less footprint translates to more equipment. I do have a tiny Rikon 10" steel frame. It is solid. No flex in the frame. But then it's a small saw and small blade. I can see that the PM 14" flexes when I release the blade tension. But it's really not a problem. But it does have a tension release..... Great to have. I know people who leave the tension on the steel frames. Maybe it doesn't hurt, but I'm sure it can't be good to leave tension on for weeks when the unit is idle.

If I were to buy another saw, it would be on the top of my list again, and some other saw would have to be significantly better & cheaper to take it's place.

[Eric DeSilva]

Interesting... thanks.

I guess the only thing I wonder about is that when I see cast iron, it is typically a lot thicker than the steel I see, even if the steel is square tube or something. But, I haven't dissected the spine of my 14" PM, much less a larger steel bandsaw.

My entire experience with steel is using using angle iron, square stock, and steel tube to weld up various things. I typically use 11ga wall stock, and I'm always a bit shocked at how much it deflects.

[Lance Norris]

Eric, have you ever drilled cast iron? Its very soft. I drilled the upper arm of my cast iron frame bandsaw to install the Carter Quick Tensioner. Drills like butter. Have you ever drilled steel? Much harder to drill. When I assembled my Griz G0457 I looked up into the spine and if I remember correctly, its 2 square channels of steel. Steel framed saws can tension a blade to a much higher level, which is needed for better resaw results. Have you ever seen wheels for a car made from cast iron? How about bearings? Clamps? Any time higher strength is needed, steel is used instead of cast iron.

[Bill Keehn]

Ned, I bought a Powermatic 14" with riser block in late 2006. It had the riser block problem and it was pretty severe. The blade would pop off a LOT. I tired a lot of things but couldn't fix it. Also the starter cap in the motor burned out. They wound up sending me a whole new motor. Took a couple months to get it though. When Woodcraft offered to take the machine back and let me trade up to the Jet 18", I jumped at the chance. I've been very happy with the Jet.

My new Powermatic (or Problematic) is a variable speed drill press. Wow, that thing is loud. Louder than my air compressor. WMH is supposed to be sending me new pulleys, but I don't know how long I'm supposed to wait. I hope it's not months. I'm getting anxious. I should have read the feedback before I purchased.

So far I'm not having much luck with Powermatic. To be fair, my mortiser seems OK, but I haven't used it much yet so I can't say for sure.

[larry fredric]

If you are still considering a 14" consider looking at the Delta. I took a PM back to Woodcraft. Needed the ability to move saw around so stayed with 14". ALL the problems listed previously, the PM seemed to be plagued with. Consider all the "bandaids" applied in this thread to the PM. I buy local and preemt all the shipping problems and missing parts. The Delta is quiet and the blade changes the easiest of all I've encountered. I have the 28-475x with a riser and it fit, first try.
Larry