Here's a challenge...

[Matt Campbell]

I'm building a coffee table based on the Noguchi design. The challenge I'm facing is figuring out the strongest way to join the two pieces shown in this pic.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u126/bluesmanmatt/DSC_0286.jpg

Now, given that information, let me throw out two rules:

1). The joint must still allow the fragile look where the two legs meet.

2). When making this joint, wood cannot be removed in any way that would adjust the height as the three points (see pics below) are all at equal heights. (This of course isn't absolute because if I did need to remove wood at this joint, I could remove equal amounts at the other two points to keep the table level.)

Does this make sense? If more information is needed, please ask. Thank you for your help.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u126/bluesmanmatt/DSC_0285.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u126/bluesmanmatt/DSC_0284.jpg

[John Baranowski]

I would do an 1/8" metal pin through both legs. Start from the inside, so you don't see it from the top if you have a glass top.

[Don Bullock]

I agree with John. Use an aluminum dowel instead of steel to avoid rust. I've used both in furniture and aluminum is strong enough for a joint like that.

[David DeCristoforo]

There really are not many options beyond the already suggested metal pin. Steel, brass, aluminum, whatever. Drill at least "several" inches into each of the two pieces and make the pin as long and as large a diameter as you can.

[rich murray]

Thanks for the brain exercise. A quick look up of Noguchi shows his coffee table has rounded edges which give the piece a unified look while affording more surface area to make the joint. Is this an option for you? It would require you to adjust the feet (and round the edges of the flat foot) and the support surfaces for the top (also rounding the edges of the flat support.) By rounding the edges of the ends of the two pieces which overlap to make the joint in question you would unify the piece, and by rounded the surfaces which meet to make the joint you would increase the area to make the joint which would better hide the pin. My pottery teacher told me to always ease the edge of any base or foot to give the piece a lighter look and to create a shadow line. If you decide to go with your design and use a pin joint, it might be a good idea to use a brad-point bit and even punch a hole for the point to enter. Otherwise the bit will want to wander off that sharp edge that is shown in the pictures. Hope you post pics of the finished piece. Please take this as just another option.

[Matt Day]

I just did a search for this style table, and I must say I like your interpretation of it better than what I saw on the other sites! Did you Domino or use some sort of loose tenon/dowel at the other joint?

What shape glass are you planning on?

[Richard M. Wolfe]

I agree with Matt that I prefer your design. I don't know how much surface area you have for the pinning operation, but a slender 1/8" pin may be your only choice. I thought about using a threaded insert for one 'leg', but don't know if you would have enough space. If you did you could be sure that at least one pinned surface couldn't move.

[Matt Campbell]

I really appreciate every one's replies. While I was in Home Depot today, I picked up a 1/4" metal rod. I think it works really well. I didn't want the joint to be exposed, but I think the metal adds just a touch of class. After I mull it over a couple more days, I'll epoxy the bottom end in, and I'll just let the top leg sit on it. That way it will be very easy to disassemble when it needs to be moved. I forgot to take pictures while I was at my shop, but I'll post one or two when I get a chance.

The other two joints are stopped, sliding dovetail joints. I thought about a mortise and tenon joint, but the sliding dovetail is almost perfect for this application.

The top will be 3/4" plate glass just like the Noguchi table top, and it will have the same triangular shape. At least I don't have to worry about wood movement with this piece. :D