Bathroom Remodel Question

[Sean Troy]

Hey all, I just started a bathroom remodel this morning and I'm doing the demo part ( actually I'm taking a break right now) and as I was demoing, I decided I'm going to do the plumbing. I'll be re-routing the plumbing and replacing valves. I've done some soldering ( sweating joints)of copper pipe before. My questions are, is there an asbestos type gaurd to use as your sweating the new joints? Do I need to worry about that? If I do, where might I find it? I've got a MAPP torch, should I get a regular propane torch?

[Chris Rosenberger]

You should worry about starting a fire. I keep a fire extinguisher or bucket of water close by just in case.
I have one of the guards. I got it at Lowes. It is made out of some type of fabric, you soak it in water before using it. I have used a piece of sheet metal at times. It helps, but it will still get hot enough to burn wood.

[Sean Troy]

Thanks Cliff, I'll take a look at lowes today. This would be a good time also for me to check all my fire extinguishers for date and correct pressure.

[Prashun Patel]

I've done what yr about to do. Nothing like the feel of sweatin' copper!
You should sign up on TerryLove.com. That's a plumbers' forum that helped me out tremendously. Beware, though, they're helpful but can get a little snippy if you ask 'dumb' questions... Yr best to do some homework first.

I highly recommend the CodeCkeck Plumbing book. Also, get a basic book by Stanley or B&D on plumbing; you'll get the basics of venting and draining.

As far as sweating, MAPP is fine (if not overkill). Get a quicklight tip though, so you don't need to monkey with a lighter/sparker.

I like the fireproof cloth too, but it's small. You can use a big piece of sheet metal ducting to diffuse the heat too.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I've done it and just used metal flashing as a heat sink between the pipe and the wood you are worried about.

I have a roll of metal flashing left over from doing the roof on my house.

[Sean Troy]

Another question, I just finished tearing out all the shower tile and for sure there was a pretty good leak in the tile and or grout lines for some time. Mold is present and the drywall is pretty well rotton 2 feet up the wall. Yes, I'm wearing a resporator. I haven't got to get a good look at the studs yet to se if i'll be replacing them and what ever else. After cleanup, should I spray with a fungicide? A pre molded shower is going back instead of tile.

[Chris Padilla]

Been there, done that...seems you have good advice thus far.

Propane is all you need...MAPP gets much hotter. Instant ignite worth the few more bucks...get some sheetmetal pieces and for tighter spots, there is a "fiberglass like" (i.e. asbestos-like) material that really looks like a small piece of insulation glued to a thickish yet very bendable piece of aluminum foil. Works as advertised! Any hardware store worth a spit should have all this for you...borgs included.

Take a good look at the studs and subfloor and make sure they are sound and replace as needed. Toilets are classic spots in need of subfloor replacement although the joists are usually okay. As far as mold goes, I'm not sure. You might research this a bit more for some sprays or I bet you could just spray the area down with good old laundry bleach. Also, check for any rodent infiltration and stop up their entries! We found mice in our bathroom walls because the doofuses cut large holes for plumbing pipes but neglected to seal the holes afterwards.

[Sean Troy]

Been there, done that...seems you have good advice thus far.

Propane is all you need...MAPP gets much hotter. Instant ignite worth the few more bucks...get some sheetmetal pieces and for tighter spots, there is a "fiberglass like" (i.e. asbestos-like) material that really looks like a small piece of insulation glued to a thickish yet very bendable piece of aluminum foil. Works as advertised! Any hardware store worth a spit should have all this for you...borgs included.

Take a good look at the studs and subfloor and make sure they are sound and replace as needed. Toilets are classic spots in need of subfloor replacement although the joists are usually okay. As far as mold goes, I'm not sure. You might research this a bit more for some sprays or I bet you could just spray the area down with good old laundry bleach. Also, check for any rodent infiltration and stop up their entries! We found mice in our bathroom walls because the doofuses cut large holes for plumbing pipes but neglected to seal the holes afterwards.
thanks for the help. My neighbor just stopped by and brought me some Concrobium mold control. I'm supposed to spray it on after clean up and letting or making sure all is dry. He was telling me bleach works but does not last and mold will re appear. This stuff is supposed to encapsulate it permantly. Well I'm off to rip out the vanity.

[Chris Padilla]

Cool...there ya go...nothing like helpful neighbors!! :D I figure if you kill the mold and take away its source of life (i.e. water), it shouldn't reappear.... You may wish to use some wonderboard or cementboard for your "drywall" in wet areas. They also have a greenboard that is drywall with a waterproof coating on it (but the coating isn't on edges or cuts...so it is minimal protection).

[Prashun Patel]

Are you sure you wanna do a premolded shower? The remodel kinds are usually 3-5 pieces that have seams that have caused some users leak problems over time.

You might consider going whole hog and doing a tile shower. To that end, you can check out johnbridge.com. Of all the diy projects I've ever done (not that many ;)) doing a shower was by FAR the most rewarding. There's a cool water proofing system called 'Schluter Kerdi' that makes it quite doable and enjoyable for guys like us.

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=34693&highlight=prashster+kerdi

[David G Baker]

I use sheet metal and keep a wet rag in a bucket and a spray bottle filled with water handy. I wet the surrounding surfaces with water from the spray bottle and shape the sheet metal to fit behind the sweat fittings.
I also have a fire retardant sheet that works fairly well but no where as good as asbestos if you can find it.
Any reason you aren't using Pex tubing? You might want to check it out prior to spending the money on sweating stuff and copper fittings and valves.

[Steve Mostoller]

Fiberglass cloth sheets for auto or boat repair works quite well for a heat shield. Plumbers in my area use them all the time. You can get them at a big box in the auto section real cheap.

[Sean Troy]

Are you sure you wanna do a premolded shower? The remodel kinds are usually 3-5 pieces that have seams that have caused some users leak problems over time.

You might consider going whole hog and doing a tile shower. To that end, you can check out johnbridge.com. Of all the diy projects I've ever done (not that many ;)) doing a shower was by FAR the most rewarding. There's a cool water proofing system called 'Schluter Kerdi' that makes it quite doable and enjoyable for guys like us.

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=34693&highlight=prashster+kerdi
Yeah, it's the 3 piece molded. Wife says so :) Shes sick of tile.

[Sean Troy]

I use sheet metal and keep a wet rag in a bucket and a spray bottle filled with water handy. I wet the surrounding surfaces with water from the spray bottle and shape the sheet metal to fit behind the sweat fittings.
I also have a fire retardant sheet that works fairly well but no where as good as asbestos if you can find it.
Any reason you aren't using Pex tubing? You might want to check it out prior to spending the money on sweating stuff and copper fittings and valves.
The whole house is copper and I'm only moving the ends a short distance. Can the Pex join up with copper with no leak problems down the road? I'm all for not sweating if there is an altenative just as good.

[Terry Achey]

Sean,

Lots of good advise here so far. If you have access to a regular plumbers propane torch, I would advise borrowing if possible. The flame is generally shorter and more compact than hand held propane tanks and can be adjusted to a lower, less intense flame for those very tight quarters. Regardless of which torch, do what David and others have suggested. Keep at arms lentgh a bucket of water, a very wet rag, and a fire extinguisher. Use sheet metal to protect the wood. And, most importantly, keep a fire watch for several hours after torch work. Sometimes smoldering embers go undetected for quite some time. Always a good idea to take the precation of spraying down the wood after torch work.

Enjoy!
Terry

[Chris Rosenberger]

This is what can result from solidering copper pipes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQRXvKP4Oc4&feature=fvw

http://www.pal-item.com/article/20090608/UPDATES/90608017/SE+Ind.+courthouse+fire+ruled+accidental

[David G Baker]

Sean,
There are connectors that join copper to Pex. I have not yet used Pex but several fellow SMCers have and have written that they are very happy with it.
I suggest that you hit the Borgs and try to get some information about what you are trying to do and check out what is available. You will have to rent or buy the tool required to do the connections.
My home has a full basement so my plumbing will be fairly easy to do when I get around to doing it. I won't put any fittings in walls and I think that is one of the recommendations. From what I have read running Pex is very similar to electrical wiring. When I do my home I am going Pex all through out the house starting with a manifold near my well and plumbing out from there.

[Prashun Patel]

Pex is fine, but you'll have to rent a crimper. IMHO, it's great for long runs. I don't believe, though, that y'll save much effort on a short run.

How short is your run? You might consider using CPVC. CPVC/copper unions are readily available. The connections are cemented.

If you want to stick to copper (even if you want to switch to PEX or CPVC) you should DEFINITELY take a look at Sharkbite fittings. They are compression fittings that eliminate the need for sweating or cementing. They are rated for behind the wall applications in my town; you should check in yours...

[Sean Troy]

Pex is fine, but you'll have to rent a crimper. IMHO, it's great for long runs. I don't believe, though, that y'll save much effort on a short run.

How short is your run? You might consider using CPVC. CPVC/copper unions are readily available. The connections are cemented.

If you want to stick to copper (even if you want to switch to PEX or CPVC) you should DEFINITELY take a look at Sharkbite fittings. They are compression fittings that eliminate the need for sweating or cementing. They are rated for behind the wall applications in my town; you should check in yours...
Great info also. Thanks ! the runs are around 2-4 feet.