Wax coated blank questions

[Bill Wyko]

I have numerous blanks coated in wax. Some I've had for years. They are still too wet to turn yet. Does anyone have any sugestions how to dry them w/o them splitting? And 2, how do you get the wax off w/o gumming up a sander or other tool?

[Richard Madison]

Bill,
Everything I've read says just turn to the usual 10% of intended final wall thickness and dry by any of a half dozen preferred methods. Uniform thickness throughout the piece is suggested. Alternative is turn to final thickness and let it warp while drying by preferred method. Just a quick summary of what has been written. Have no great personal experience to report.

Oh yeah, just ignore the wax and turn it off as needed. Maybe scrape it off for use of a faceplate.

[Mark Norman]

I was thinking of this just today when anchorsealing some raw wood. If I get the sealant (anchorseal = paraffin wax) into the wood between the wood and bark it would inhibit the use of glue to keep the bark on for NE pieces.
How much is too much?
And how to eliminate the wax later when finishing the work?

Good question Bill.

[Jeff Nicol]

First if if is reagular wax melted on or dipped or painted on it will be thicker most times than Anchorseal. The reason all wood is sealed when cut into a board, blank or block is to try and keep it from checking and cracking until the timber can or will be used. With turning blocks that are waxed from the supplier just turn them as you would any freshly cut green blank and rough it to shape. If the wood is very dry you will be able to tell by the dust it produces. If still to wet to finish you should be able to tell that also. If not sure rough to the 10% method and either reseal or paper bag it or as already stated use one of the much used drying methods. If you are waiting for a waxed/sealed blank to be completely dry and ready to turn to a finshed piece you may never get there! So turn it and it will dry faster after the roughing.

Mark, Paraffin wax and Anchorseal are very different in there sealing characteristics, very hot wax will soak into smaller cracks and things easier than Anchorseal, for the anchorseal is thick and drys relativley fast and most all the wax or sealer will be turned away from the bark. If you plan on turning a NE piece you do not need to seal the bark side of the blank, the bark will naturally slow the drying and should not be sealed so there will be no problem with finishes or glue. Also the only blanks that should be used for NE edge pieces should be from wood that was cut after the tree was done growing for the year. Such as fall through spring before the sap begins to rise into the tree again, other wise it will most always fall off while turning.

Good luck,

Jeff

[Bernie Weishapl]

Bill if you are talking like blanks from Woodcraft, I scrape all the wax off except for the end grain. This will allow the blank to dry in a slow controlled manner. I bought a nice piece of wood (black and white ebony) from woodcraft about 2 yrs ago. A year and a half ago I checked it for moisture for turning a lidded box with finial and it was like 43% on the lumber yards meter. So I scraped all the wax of but the ends. A couple of months ago I checked it again and it was 12%.

[Ryan Baker]

Be careful with taking the wax off. Blanks up to about 2" thick can dry successfully by scraping off the sides (leave the ends covered), and let it dry. Thicker blanks will take years, and even then will probably not dry all the way through and run a big risk of cracking. I would recommend leaving the sealer on the thick blanks until you are ready to rough turn them. Then dry them like any other green blank. It depends a lot on the type of wood and what your local environmental conditions are, but clearing off the sides of the thick blanks can allow them to still dry too fast and split badly.

A paint scraper does a good job of quickly removing the wax from the sides.

[Mark Norman]

Good info to have. Thanks Jeff! (and the rest of ya's)

[Gary Max]

Boiling them in water---------wax comes right off.

[Mike Minto]

Speaking of drying blanks, and having them not check/crack - I've seen, at 'Instant Galleries' and other places, MANY, LARGE, wonderful turnings that are on display by local artists - how are they managing to get big turnings so well finished, with no evidence of cracking? I'm at a loss - I usually just fill cracks and go with what nature leaves me - I'll never be world class, I guess (LOL) :(.