small walnut desk - in progress

[Mark Kosmowski]

This will be my first piece of fine furniture and already I'm finding myself a bit nervous and over perfectionistic about things, but I want this piece to look good when I'm done.

My rough idea for the desk is for it to be a small table with two drawers underneath in the apron. This part is going to be all walnut, except I'm thinking to use cherry for the drawer faces.

I am planning to then use strechered sides rather than legs and am thinking to make the side assembly detachable from the desktop assembly for ease of future moves.

When discussing just the flat top of the whole thing without the apron, I'm going to call this the tabletop; I'll use the word desktop to describe the tabletop attached to the apron.

So far I have the tabletop glued up and am working on sanding it up through the grits.

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In the tabletop pictures, the knot that looks dark and shiny is wet with some CA glue (superglue). I had applied the CA just to the void area of this knot and after sanding the CA area still looked different than the rest of the knot, so I applied CA to the whole knot for consistency.

The arrow indicates a little bit of artist's grade acrylic gel. I put a little of this on the piece to verify that it dries clear. It does and so I'm using it to fill knot voids.

After completing my first shooting board yesterday, I shot the ends of the tabletop. Shooting across the whole 16" of the 7/8" (approximately) thick tabletop became a bit less than trivial as time went on. Still, it sure is a good feeling looking at the nice end with that curl of walnut "paper" dangling off the RAS table.

The blotchiness around the knots is unsanded acrylic gel medium. It will sand down to a nice normal look.

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Next step is to start working on the apron.

[Ed Sallee]

This will be fun to watch, that is, if you plan on documenting the entire build.

You'll find that if you do, you will get some great advice along the way and, you're going to want to make it look good before you even take the picture, because you'll know the world is watching.

At least that's why I like to post my builds, because you know you've got this fine group looking over your shoulder and you want to be...well, perfect. Nothing wrong with that!

Cool project and Walnut is a great choice! Your shop is probably smelling pretty good right about now.

[gary Zimmel]

Like Ed, I too am looking forward to the build.

Keep those progress pics coming Mark.

[John Keeton]

Mark, nothing like a progress thread to keep you motivated!! Walnut is a great wood, and you will love the finished look.

For those of us that have done "build" threads, we appreciate the work that goes into the pics, and doing the posts. It takes a lot of time, and can slow you down. But, the "atta boys" and the "whoaaaa, don't do that" will make it all worth while!

Along those lines, you may want to look at aged cherry and aged walnut together. The cherry will become a darker reddish color, and the walnut will lighten to an amber brown. While it will produce a very warm look, there are some that do not like the two together - count me in that group. But, you will probably get others that will disagree.

Looking forward to the next chapter!

[Jim Kountz]

Looks like you're off to a great start, keep us posted!!

[Mark Norman]

I also love project threads. Keep us posted as you go.

Mixing different woods in furniture is risky. I don't care for it for the most part but if done well it can make for an interesting piece.

Looks good so far!

[Mark Kosmowski]

I took the day off today, but since there seems to be interest in progress threads, I'll give more details into the build so far.

This was my first glue up. I face jointed and planed the two boards first (and have since learned that I maybe didn't need to plane them further than just parallel and flat). I needed to take the jointer guard off and use the "one pass then flip it around" method because each board was wider than my 6" jointer capacity.

Prior to planing, I edge jointed both edges to read the grain. I think I made a fresh edge jointing right after decided how to glue the boards up for the glue joint. I've since learned that cauls would have helped reduce the amount of "center ridge" made by the glueup. At any rate, my initial glueup gave a deviation from board width to joint width of 0.04 mm, so I wasn't too far off.

My top surface feel flat to touch, but the bottom has some areas of non-flatness yet. So far I've just used a 6" ROS for flattening as I do not have a drum sander. My plan is to not worry about the bottom flatness at the time being until the apron is made and I can see whether the bottom needs more flattening before apron attachment.

Barring a suggestion I am capable of doing in my shop, if I feel the need to flatten the bottom more, I'm thinking to put some PSA 80 grit Carborundum sandpaper on a piece of angle iron and apply elbow grease to sand the whole table width all at once.

There's knots and figure, so I don't feel comfortable using a plane or scraper. My inexperience is such that shooting the ends is a significant amount of my handplaning experience. Gotta start somewhere. :)

After my top was flattened to 80 grit with the ROS, I used my EZ Smart to trim the edges and ends. For the edges, I picked the edge I wanted to be the keeper edge, and used that to reference the back end of the EZ Smart router mount (SRK). I then routed the opposite edge to acheive parallel edges. I don't have a tablesaw in my shop, so I didn't see a different (much less better) way to accomplish this task of edge parallelling.

Then each edge received some light passes on the jointer to clean up tool marks. I'm down to 3 or four minor tool marks on each edge (from when I needed to stop moving the board on the jointer to switch grip. Yesterday I bought Bill Bush's DVD (about finishing with Bush Oil) and they showed the simple jig of applying PSA sandpaper to a narrow strip of aluminum flat stock to use as an easily controllable sanding block for edges and ends. I think I have some steel flat stock laying around from a previous project, so I'll chop it up into manageable lengths and apply various PSA grits to it - then I'll label them and toss them into the Bush Oil sanding kit when done.

I measured each edge for parallel and was less than 1 mm different on either end of the 40" length. During this measuring, of course with the router and EZ rail still on the wood, everything started to fall off the table it was on. Thankfully, I was able to stop the fall by catching the tabletop corner with my shin :eek: and disaster was averted.

Then I used the EZ Smart rail and circular saw to trim the ends. I trimmed off about 2" from one end to remove a blemish that sanding was not going to resolve. It was at this point that my wife came out and unknowingly delivered what has to be the best glue up compliment that exists. She was off by a quarter inch guessing where the joint was! :D

All the rest that has happened has been successive sanding through to 220 on the 6" ROS and packing and repacking knot voids with acrylic gel medium. I just picked up a Milwaukee 5" ROS recon for $41 shipped and will use that to go to 320 grit. Closer to applying the finish on the tabletop, I'll go to 400 grit by hand.

Regarding finishing, is there anything wrong with finishing the tabletop before progressing to other construction steps? I'm thinking maybe to put one coat of finish on the bottom also to prevent uneven mosture uptake. The finish I will be using is Bush Oil. If I do go ahead and finish the table top alone, I can bring it inside and have it out of the way while working on other parts. I'll also be able to devote some more time to design waiting for the finish to cure.

Other than this, all that has happened has been shooting the ends as mentioned in the first post.

Thanks for the encouraging comments!

[John Thompson]

Keep the assembly line rolling, Mark.

Sarge..

[John Keeton]

Mark, on the sanding, I would probably stop at 220 with the ROS, and go to hand sanding with 220 with the grain. I don't usually sand past 220 prior to finish, but I have never used Bush oil, so it may require more. Have you done some test pieces?

I wouldn't hesitate to finish the top first, but I certainly would do some test pieces first to make sure the Bush oil was the finish I wanted - and to test the sanding schedule.

[Mark Versprille]

About the super glue. I used some super glue to 'repair' some end splitting on a coffee table. It filled the grain completely. That 1/2" square takes finish (or I should say doesn't take finish) totally differently than the rest of the top. I have yet to find any solution to my mistake.

[Prashun Patel]

There's nothing wrong with finishing the top first - as long as you don't need to true up anything after attaching the other parts to it.

Coupla thoughts:

- If yr bottom's not flat, your apron will pull it flat, which can mean your top is all of a sudden pulled out of flat. If you prefinish, you might have issues reflattening the top. So, a better option is to either flatten both sides now, or scribe the top of yr apron to conform to the bow or cup.

- An ROS can leave swirls - even the good ones. So, I'd go no higher than 180 or 220 dry. Then hand sand to remove swirls. I wouldn't go higher than this b4 starting to apply the finish. You'll start to burnish the wood, which can impede the oils ability to penetrate. So, u wanna get the 1st finish coat on after 180-220.

- Walnut is opengrained. A desktop will benefit from some amount of grain filling. If you don't want to use a pore filler, then you can wetsand the 1st few coats of yr finish, moving up from 220. This is completely an aesthetic choice, though; many don't fill grain at all.

[Mark Kosmowski]

Shawn - that's a good point about bottom flatness. Even if the bottom is currently flat enough to not matter, I'll always know it wasn't good and flat at the beginning.

I have Bill Bush's DVD about how to properly apply Bush Oil, and he goes into great detail how to properly sand and subsequently treat both open and closed pore woods. I'll be following his directions.

Thanks for the comments! I am a bit tired after work today, so I'm not out in the shop for fear of error. I'll take some pics as I'm sanding throughout the week - going to make a flattening jig and I'll let you know how it works out.

[Mark Kosmowski]

I did a little design work. This is my first time using Sketchup, so it is going slow.

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[Mark Kosmowski]

Further progress:

I've taken a step back to focus on design (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=114365) while continuing to work on the tabletop piece.

The tabletop has been sanded to 400 grit on all sides. To sand the ends and edges, I applied some PSA backed sandpaper to 1 1/2" aluminum.

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I've applied the first two coats of Bush Oil to the bottom, ends and edges. I'll take a pic when it is dry tomorrow. My goal for the weekend is to get the tabletop at least marginally finished and bring it inside to clear up space for construction of other parts. Additionally, I want to get my design wrapped up so that I can confidently carry on with the construction work.

[John Keeton]

Mark, I know what you are going thru with Sketchup. In the midst of planning my last project, I decided to learn Sketchup. Dave Richards is a tremendous resource! In the end, I decided that I actually had two projects going, and the Sketchup was taking more out of me than the woodworking! Gave up on Sketchup. Seems I am much more comfortable with pencil and paper - though I certainly see the advantages of SU, it just isn't for me.

I will comment on the design here instead of in the other thread. I like that you have gone to two drawers, but it still seems that the desk is much too narrow or shallow for the height and length. It appears as though it would be tipsy. I realize you have the top pretty much done, however.

The other comment would be that if you are intent on using flat stock for the legs and stretchers, do you feel your skill level would permit you to consider including panels - rails, stiles and plywood panels? You could build up the two ends, and the back as sub-assemblies. It would give the piece some mass and stiffness. Just a thought.

[Don Bullock]

... Seems I am much more comfortable with pencil and paper - though I certainly see the advantages of SU, it just isn't for me...

John, I'm with you on SU vs pencil and paper.

Mark, I'm enjoying the thread.

[sean m. titmas]

John, I'm with you on SU vs pencil and paper.

Mark, I'm enjoying the thread.


have either of you guys learned to use SU or at least seen the capabilities of the program?

im old school beyond my age when it comes to working with wood however once i saw what SU could do for me i saw that it could improve my design/redisign/build projects by making them quicker, simplier, more detailed and more acessable to both of us. i can work out complicated layouts with mutiple views to build from are much easier to do.

the program helps both myself and my clients better understand what we ars getting into with our project. quick redraws or mutiple angle views of a complicated piece are easy to do and come out looking very professional.

i still hand draw a perspective view of the piece for the client but its mostly for astectics and some day when im long dead and gone hopefully they will make the pieces that i built worth more.

with a very shallow learning curve(it took me 3 weeks to learn 99% of the program) it is worth a second deeper look and im sure you could find some aspect of the program that could benefit you and your woodworking.

[Don Bullock]

have either of you guys learned to use SU or at least seen the capabilities of the program?

...

Not to hijack this thread, but I have used SU and know it's capabilities. In addition, I've been a computer user dating back to the days of file cards on "mainframes." For me at this moment in time I don't have the three weeks you mention to learn the software. Since my only client is me, I don't need to worry about dazzling my clients. In fact most of my projects are done without any drawings. I let the wood and my eye for design dictate the piece. Sure I realize that this isn't the "best" way to design, but it works for me. I can visualize designs in 3-D without drawing them in SU.

Now back to the OP's table. It's coming along very well. Walnut is one of my favorite woods to use. I'm looking forward to the rest of this build.

[John Keeton]

have either of you guys learned to use SU or at least seen the capabilities of the program?Sean, Don pretty much nailed my feelings on this. I have been computer literate since 1982.

Besides, it is so much easier to see one's mistakes in real time!!:D And, much more fun than seeing them in a graphic display!

[Mark Kosmowski]

Ok, fellas, I'm hijacking my thread back with more in progress pics. LOL

I applied the first two coats of Bush Oil to the bottom and sides this past weekend. I'm a bit late with this pic, but had a bit of a migraine flare up Sunday. Here it is dry after said first two coats.

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Glad I started with the bottom. I learned something - open pore woods like walnut need a second wipe off of the excess oil. My wife asked about this at the time and I was forced to admit to her that she was right today after re-watching Mr. Bush's DVD. :o

Hopefully my wet sanding at 400 grit (wet with more Bush Oil) today will iron out any issues. If not, well, that surface is planned to be the bottom anyhow. I'm going to be finishing the finish of the tabletop this week and start working on the rest of the desk this coming weekend.

Speaking of open pored woods, it's time to go for another wipe down.

[John Keeton]

Mark, you are permitted under the TOS to interrupt your own thread at any time to post progress:D We were just taking a recess to talk while you were working on that top!

I don't know anything about Bush Oil, but does he talk about using pumice as a grain filler on the walnut?

[Mark Kosmowski]

He claims that wet sanding at 400 grit (what I sanded to before first two finish coats) with more finish fills the pores.

My wife liked the first design better than the second in my design thread. She also mentioned that she liked Mission. Deciding that she was referring to something other than operational units of fire and maneuver, I used Google to remedy (partially) my ignorance of historical furniture styles. I then used Google Sketchup again and I think I have a winner. Since more design comments were made here than in the design thread, the new pic goes here too.

I doubt you'll be able to notice, but I also changed the carcass so that the tabletop extends 1/2" in the back instead of the original 1/4" to accommodate floor molding and still be pretty flush to the wall. This took about 10 minutes to change lengths and move parts appropriately.

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I still need to do the drawers and joinery. It looks like I also need a mortise machine. I also need to decide what woods to use, namely, will maple look funky for the bottom. It will be a walnut apron with cherry drawer fronts (and cherry inside aprons - got a bunch of 20" cherry shorts I feel compelled to use). Hmmm... maybe walnut bottom with cherry slats to tie everything together?

Also, I need to decide how important it is for me to hide endgrain with fancy joinery vs. getting the piece done in a timely manner using joinery commensurate with my meager skill and experience.

[Prashun Patel]

IMHO:::

Hiding endgrain isn't important. Proper finishing of endgrain is important.

[sean m. titmas]

Also, I need to decide how important it is for me to hide endgrain with fancy joinery vs. getting the piece done in a timely manner using joinery commensurate with my meager skill and experience.


Shawn is right, covering the end grain is not as important as proper scraping/sanding of the end grain.

IMO, a bread board end would fit the style nicely and it is definitely not "fancy".

[Mark Kosmowski]

First execution problem. Some finish dribbled down the sides and pooled underneath the piece while I was finishing its bottom and the top has some little blister bits. I applied a single coat of Bush Oil hoping I could work the blobs back into solution with the oil but it didn't work very well.

My thought is to go back to the ROS at 220 grit and sand them off once the current layer dries. Then I can hand sand back to 400 and start over again.

The DVD I have by Bill Bush regardin the application of Bush Oil suggests using foam brushes to apply the oil. I think that maybe I apply too much oil this way and I might go back to using t-shirt cloth for application in addition to wiping dry when done.

Any suggestions on the removal of these finish blisters are welcome.