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Tim Boger
06-06-2009, 7:04 PM
I would like some suggestions about what works best for signing lathe turned pieces.

I have seen some use a sharpie and seal over it but I like the burned in look better.

Watching Malcolm Tibbetts new video (very good BTW) I noticed his engraving tool allows for very small lettering which I like.

What has worked well for you guys?

Thanks ... Tim

David Christopher
06-06-2009, 7:25 PM
I would like some suggestions about what works best for signing lathe turned pieces.

I have seen some use a sharpie and seal over it but I like the burned in look better.

Watching Malcolm Tibbetts new video (very good BTY) I noticed his engraving tool allows for very small lettering which I like.

What has worked well for you guys?

Thanks ... Tim

Tim, I tried using one of those cheap wood burners and it was like trying to write with your foot then Tony Greenway talked me into buying a burnmaster and man that thing is like writing with a expensive pen...try one and youll buy one

Tim Boger
06-06-2009, 7:36 PM
Tim, I tried using one of those cheap wood burners and it was like trying to write with your foot then Tony Greenway talked me into buying a burnmaster and man that thing is like writing with a expensive pen...try one and youll buy one

Thanks for the suggestion Dave, I'll take a look at it.

Tim

Jeff Nicol
06-06-2009, 7:58 PM
I used to write on the bottom with a very fine rollerball precision pen and could write very small, I even signed my miniatures. Now I use a vibrating engraver to do it, it blends in and does not detract from the piece or hide any thing. It is fast and does a great job.

Jeff

Steve Schlumpf
06-06-2009, 9:02 PM
Tim - I use a black archival pen (India ink) to sign my work. Let it dry for a minute and it's ready for finishing!

Bruce Shiverdecker
06-06-2009, 9:06 PM
So far, the best I've been able to come up with is the archival pen that Steve mentioned.

Bruce

Tim Boger
06-06-2009, 9:20 PM
Thanks guys for your help!

I know this may sound like a dumb question but I want to be certain, I'm thinking when signing with an archival pen it would be done before any finish went on. Is that correct?

Tim

Steve Schlumpf
06-06-2009, 9:27 PM
Tim - sign on bare wood and let it dry for a minute or so and then you can apply your finish of choice.

I did forget to sign one time and signed after about 3 coats of poly - with the intention of applying more poly after it dried. Didn't work. Learned that when using an archival pen - sign on the bare wood and you are good to go!

Tim Boger
06-06-2009, 9:40 PM
Tim - sign on bare wood and let it dry for a minute or so and then you can apply your finish of choice.

I did forget to sign one time and signed after about 3 coats of poly - with the intention of applying more poly after it dried. Didn't work. Learned that when using an archival pen - sign on the bare wood and you are good to go!

Thanks Steve, this really sounds like a better technique than burning it in as I have been doing.

Tim

Bernie Weishapl
06-06-2009, 11:08 PM
I use a archival pen and india ink like Stever on bare wood.

Brian George
06-07-2009, 12:18 AM
Where does one find an archival pen and are there quality differences?
Thanks for the input...
Is it OK for vegetarians to eat animal crackers??

Steve Schlumpf
06-07-2009, 12:25 AM
Brian - any art supplies store carries them. I picked mine up at a local Ben Franklin but have seen them at Michaels and Hobby Lobby.

Allen Neighbors
06-07-2009, 9:01 AM
Made my own woodburner from a battery charger. Gets hotter than the little cheapies. My trembling hands make either, woodburning or ink, look just as bad. :)

Bill Blasic
06-07-2009, 9:34 AM
I use a Pigma Micron 005, I have found no finish that affects this ink. The 005 is a very fine lined pen and they have bigger ones. In the past I've tried burning and vibrating but the Pigma gets me a better looking signature. I got mine at Pat Catans but you should be able to find them at places like Michaels or A.C. Moore.

Burt Alcantara
06-07-2009, 9:54 AM
Another vote for archival pen. I buy them at Walmart. At my Wallyworld, they are in some not-in-the-logical-place area so you may have to do a search and rescue.

I also have a Burnmaster but it's buried somewhere in the shop. Once I set up a finishing table I will begin to use the Burnmaster.

Norm Zax
06-07-2009, 10:40 AM
When using archival pens, doesnt the ink splot on the bare wood as felt tips do on paper, both being absorbent substrates? Are those water based or alcohol based? Both would seem to spread out on un-sealed wood. A friend of mine seals and then uses either silver or gold fiber tipped pens, depending on the wood color.

Steve Schlumpf
06-07-2009, 11:10 AM
Norm - I just grabbed one of my pens to take a look at what it claims.

I use the Millennium pens and they state the following:

Pigment Ink
Acid-Free
Archival Quality
Waterproof
Non-Bleeding

I am sure there are many different brands that have the same claims. I have had no problems with bleeding when writing on bare wood but I have not turned a large variety of different woods - usually maple, cherry and white birch - so your experience may vary.

Kyle Iwamoto
06-07-2009, 1:35 PM
What is an archival pen? Is is just a type of pen found in the pen department at Wallyworld?

I tried a sharpie on bare wood, and 3 days later, it bled out. I had to sand enough so it wouldn't look too bad.... So, that doesn't work.....

Steve Schlumpf
06-07-2009, 1:38 PM
Kyle - here is what I use: http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/185-1611648-3822839?ASIN=B000S10OM0&AFID=Froogle&LNM=B000S10OM0|Millennium_Color_Pens_8_pk._.05_Lin e&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=B000S10OM0&ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001 (http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/185-1611648-3822839?ASIN=B000S10OM0&AFID=Froogle&LNM=B000S10OM0%7CMillennium_Color_Pens_8_pk._.05_L ine&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=B000S10OM0&ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001)

They come in different colors and pen tip sizes.

Kyle Iwamoto
06-07-2009, 1:42 PM
WOW you are fast!

SIGH. Now I HAVE to stop at Target........

Thanks a lot!

Jim Ciesla
06-07-2009, 2:15 PM
Got this one at Joann fabrics. I put it on bare wood most of the time but I have used it after a coat or two of shellac and it did ok.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/H:\DCIM\100NCD40\DSC_0159_resize.JPG

Dave Marshall
06-07-2009, 3:17 PM
I like to use a Universal X-660 CO2 laser. Works like a champ.

Steven Ley
06-07-2009, 3:18 PM
Haven't been at this a long time, but after attempting to use a cheaper woodburning pen, i moved to using letter and number stamps and then burning the imprint. i found the uniformity to be much better and the stamps were inexpensive at princess auto

Norm Zax
06-08-2009, 3:11 AM
Steve - thanks for the reply. Non bleeding is what does it! Acid free is what makes it archival as acid yellows paper as it ages.
Steven - can u elaborate please? Sounds like relatively a lot of work but interesting.
Thx!

Kyle Iwamoto
06-08-2009, 2:26 PM
I went to Walmart and found the archival pen. It's in the craft section.
Many thanks!

Tim Boger
06-08-2009, 6:17 PM
I also picked up 2 archival pens @ my local Walmart today, one was in the fabric section and the other was in the scrapbook area. Both say non bleeding.

I sure want to thank everyone for offering up their way of doing things!

Tim

Pat O'malley
06-08-2009, 6:51 PM
Just got back from Walmart, picked one up also. Has anyone used a branding iron (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10369&filter=branding%20iron) from Rockler??? Thanks

Tim Boger
06-08-2009, 7:30 PM
Hey Pat ... I had considered the branding iron but the cost was more than I wanted to spend. If I could afford it I would like the iron that is made off your own signature.

Ryan Baker
06-08-2009, 7:52 PM
Just got back from Walmart, picked one up also. Has anyone used a branding iron (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10369&filter=branding%20iron) from Rockler??? Thanks

I've got one of those that I use on furniture. They work well once you get the hang of judging the temperature right. They are way too large for almost anything I have ever turned or would think of turning in the future.

A good woodburning pen is the best thing I have found for signing turnings. It doesn't help much for dark woods though. I need to pick up a couple of those archival pens in light colors to try on the dark exotics.

Terry Achey
06-08-2009, 10:11 PM
I ordered this custom electric branding iron at a woodworking show. Works very well and is less than 2" wide. Works hand held or in the drill press. Cost is a bit high at around $325, but it is very heavy duty brass and steel and it never needs sharpened :).

Terry