Stupid Plaque Question #27

[Steve Clarkson]

OK, just finished my first plaque project.....an engraved LaserBrite Plate on a walnut plaque board secured by plaque tape.

So here's the stupid question......how much plaque tape did I need?

I bought the 3/4" wide roll and basically taped all four sides from corner to corner (so it ended up looking like a rectangle of tape) and then did a diagonal stripe from the top left corner to the bottom right corner.

It seemed like alot of tape for one plaque.......but if the plaque ever makes it to Miami, it should survive even a category 5 hurricane.

It also seemed expensive.....$12 for the plate and $15 for the walnut board.......PLUS due to operator error, I had to order another plate......which cost $12 plus $10 shipping........ah, live and learn. The trophy guys in my town are still safe from me for now........

[Stephen Beckham]

Steve,

I usually put three strips in a vertical manner on all my plates. They have seemed to hold quite well. I've got several as displays in the store and one in the sweltering heat out in the trailer to simulate a plaque somewhere other than the perfect location.

I started out using loads of tape and realized after a few re-works how hard it is to take off the mistake, it's unlikely gravity will do it much easier.

Side-note; I always double check with the customer on the type of plaque behind the brass if they go full plate. It seems a waste of pretty wood if they are using a full plate to cover solid wood. Most just want a cheap carrier to hold the brass plate on the wall. Some want the prestige of solid walnut behind their brass plate. The same size plaque in a 'finished' wood versus solid wood can save you about ~$5 per plaque in a 8X10 range.

[Steve Clarkson]

Good point!

Oh, and that was Stupid Question #28........how do you remove a plate when you accidently position is wrong? That tape is like super glue!!!!!

[Mike Null]

Steve

I carry 3/4" tape and used it for quite a while but now I use 1/2" and do the three strips as Steve is suggesting. I generally use a backer plate to create a border as well. You can also buy plates with a border.

Removing them is not easy but a heat gun will help. If you pry them off with some kind of leverage be prepared to make a new plate. Be careful of the sharp edges of the metal.

Positioning is usually done by eye. If you have made plates in standard sizes, that is some equal percentage of the plaque size then each side should have the same margin. Position the top and two sides so they are equidistant from the edges. The bottom should be the same.

While I'm at it; all my plaques get felt pads added to the back, my label, they're packaged in the proper size plastic bag then put in a gift box. (my particle board plaques go out in plastic bags unless the customer pays for a box.)

[Steve Clarkson]

Thanks Mike......good advice.

[Martin Boekers]

Steve,

I have a tool that I use to remove plates, basically it's like a small paint scraper.

I pry up one end of the plate GENTLY as to not mar the surface of the wood. Then slide a piece of card stock under the scraper while I slowly work the plate off. This also helps from maring the wood in a visable area.

As for centering plates, mostly done by eye. I do have a centering ruler for the more critical positioning. Those are available at most craft stores or framing supply shops.


Marty