Turning Handles for Turning Tools, and others

[Mike Minto]

OK, this may seem basic, but I'm in the dark. When I make handles for turning tools, obviously the blank of wood is turned as a spindle. Now, when I am finished, and wish to drill a hole in the handle for the tool to be inserted into, I can only drill a very small hole due to the limitations of the tailstock and live center. Later when I try and widen the hole,drilling by hand, I usually make it somewhat off center. Do you all have a way to widen the hole to the correct shaft size and keep it centered, or do you 'over-drill' it, and fill with glue (and what kind)? Thanks for any advise.

[David Walser]

Mike,

If I couldn't drill on the lathe, I'd pre-drill the blank on my drill press and then use the hole to center the tailstock. That will keep the hole centered in the final handle.

[Brian McInturff]

I hadn't really thought about it but I've got a few long drill bits that I use. I use epoxy for the ones I want to put a permanent handle on.

[Ryan Baker]

Drill the hole first in the blank. Use that to center it on the lathe (cone center in the tailstock) and it will end up perfectly centered. You mention being limited to a very small drill. Are you trying to drill through the tailstock? Don't do that. Hold the blank in a chuck and drull normally with the tailstock, or chuck the drill in the headstock and feed in the blank. Or drill it off the lathe if you prefer.

[David Christopher]

OK, this may seem basic, but I'm in the dark. When I make handles for turning tools, obviously the blank of wood is turned as a spindle. Now, when I am finished, and wish to drill a hole in the handle for the tool to be inserted into, I can only drill a very small hole due to the limitations of the tailstock and live center. Later when I try and widen the hole,drilling by hand, I usually make it somewhat off center. Do you all have a way to widen the hole to the correct shaft size and keep it centered, or do you 'over-drill' it, and fill with glue (and what kind)? Thanks for any advise.

Mike, I dont understand...if you can bore a small why cant you bore a bigger one ? ...for turning tools the hole is normally 2- 2 1/2 inches deep and usually no bigger than 5/8 inch....most any chuck will acomadate that

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I use those cheap step drill bits. Yes, it does work in wood. GO SLOWLY. From your descrition, I'm guessing that you can drill a 1/4" hole, then you need to make it into a 1/2" hole... I do that all the time with the step bit. Then you can drill the 1/2" hole as deep as you like.

Note that this will not make the hole straight, but it should be centered. I like to think of the chisel to use whe I need to cut around a corner.:confused:

[Mike Minto]

Dave, I'm drilling through my tailstock and live center - I believe I'm limited to 3/8" - is there a better way to drill thru a spindle?

[David Christopher]

Dave, I'm drilling through my tailstock and live center - I believe I'm limited to 3/8" - is there a better way to drill thru a spindle?
Mike I have a M2 with a keyless chuck in my tailstock....just put the drill bit of choice and wind the arbor in

I can take a pic if you would to see it

[Brian McInturff]

Mike,
Get a Morse taper drill chuck. Or take and make a handle for the drill bit and epoxy the bit into the handle and free hand it. The spinning handle in the chuck on the headstock will drill itself relatively straight.

[Mike Minto]

David, oh, I see - so start the drill in the spindle in a chuck, and then go motorized? Didn't think of that, but I will try it next time, and post results. I don't think 'outside the box' well, sometimes. Thanks.

[Bob Haverstock]

Mike,

I have a JWL 1220 and make most of my turning tools. I don't have any bed length to waste. If I didn't have a 1/2 inch to 3/4 bushing to use in my Nova Midi chuck, I would use a 1/2 inch #2 Morse taper drill in the spindle. I turn the handle between centers. I leave the center points intact on the handle. While I do not recommed this method, this is what I do. I hold the end of the handle on the tail stock center and feed the handle over the bit in the headstock by advancing the tail stock quill with my left hand. I use my lowest spindle speed. The folks in Utah have Morse taper drill bits in there catalog.

I'm sure that there are better ways of doing this, by Friday you and I will better methods available to us.

Bob

[Scott Conners]

I typically do it one of two ways -
1. Grip the blank in a chuck at the headstock, and put a drill chuck in my tailstock - good for most stuff as long as the grip in the chuck is good.
2. Put a drill chuck in my headstock, and then use the tailstock to line up the backside of the blank, then push the wood onto the drill by hand. This is how Richard Raffan does it, and I've been surprised at how easy this method is. I usually use the tailstock to crank the first inch or so in (while holding the blank from turning by hand), then the drill bit will keep it aligned as I push it the rest of the way on by hand.

It often helps to drill a pilot hole with a smaller shorter bit first.

Chucking the handle between centers with a cone center in the tool hole will make sure the hole is perfectly centered. The tool can still be crooked if the hole isn't straight down the spindle though.

I've been really impressed by this chuck (http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3153&category=), It's very accurate and beefy, and a good price. Use this arbor (http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2955&category=) for it.

[Greg Bender]

Mike,
if it will help,make yourself a steadyrest to hold/steady the handle blank while you drill to the proper size.Do your 1/4" hole first,install your steadyrest,back off on the tailstock and drill away.
Greg

[Mike Minto]

Dave, sure, love to see a pic - in use. thanks.

[David Christopher]

Mike, just went out and drilled and snapped a few pics...hope this helps

[Jim Underwood]

I've seen this done just the opposite of how most of you describe.

I've seen the blank left square, punched for centers, the drill put in the headstock and the tailstock center run up to the punched center, and the tool rest brought up to the square stock to keep it from turning. Then you just turn on the machine, and crank the tailstock in. When you want to turn the handle profile, just reverse the handle blank, place the new hole in a tailstock center, and the drive center in the punched end, and turn away.

Clear as mud?

I've never done it this way because a Jet mini doesn't have that much room. Not to mention that I've hardly ever had a square blank...

Now that I have the 1642, I'll be making some longer handles... :D

[Rich Souchek]

I drilled my first few tool handles and they are off-center. Once I was used to them it didn't mattrer at all.
The second set of handles were drilled off the lathe in a hand drill. Then I stuck the 3/4 bowl gouge steel in the hande and stuck the gouge steel thru the headstock hole to center the handle on the hole. Brought the tailstock up where ever it hit and the handle was centered on the gouge.
My favorite way is as shown above, holding the drill bit in a jacobs chuck in the tailstock and drill with the lathe going.
RichS.

[Rasmus Petersen]

Jim has it on the dot! but i go one step further in making this easy.

Square blank punched and drilled like jim described. But instead of removing it from the drilling setup i just turn the beast right there, using the drillbit as drive. Easy and fast. I sometimes use the ferrule as a spacer if im in need of one.. just let i hang loose on the drillbit...

Makes handelmaking very easy...

[Tony Kahn]

here is a great tutorial, http://www.thompsonlathetools.com/images/extra/TurningToolHandles.pdf

[Jim Underwood]

Boy. I gotta go turn those Black Locust handles. I gotta see what the new lathe will do now...:D