So, I'm just going to buy a 27x36 router table from woodpeckers...

[Matt Armstrong]

This way it will fit as a full length extension table on the right side of my table saw. I already have a good outfeed table/workbench that mates to the table saw so I figure this just makes the most sense. I know that people say a dedicated router table is ultimately preferable but I tend to be a little short on workshop area and I'd like to take advantage of the mobile bases wherever I can. So anyway, I also decided the extra cost for someone to build the tabletop surface with a good phenolic surface, proper cutout, miter track, etc, was not worth my time. However, I do intend to build whatever fixtures are necessary to stabilize the table top to my saw's extension rails (52" biesemeyer jobbie).

So, questions:
1) Will angle iron supporting both long edges of the table be sufficient to prevent the table top center from not sagging? It's a 27" span but it's about 1.375" thick material, 2 5/8" MDF cores and a phenolic laminate on the top and bottom. If I need to additionally brace it, does anyone have any quick suggestions?

2) I'm concerned about dust collection. I don't want to choke my router for air but I'm not sure how to go about building a little enclosure for my milwaukee 5625. I'm just going to use the above-the-table depth adjustments, but i'll still need to unlatch the motor and remove it for bit changes (so the enclosure will need to be deep enough). Ideas? I was considering just running a tube with a friction-mount gasket to the top (intake) side of the router and running the tube to the outside air... I figure it'd be easy to remove when changing bits and would allow me to do my dust collection thing inside the little enclosure without concern for the motor's cooling. Thoughts?

[Matt Armstrong]

3) Can't I just mount the router to the plate/table and worry about the table sagging and dust collection problems later? I tend to over-think my tool setup sometimes.

[Rod Sheridan]

Matt, if you're going to buy a router table top, why would you not buy a steel one from Quality Grinding, or a cast iron one from other manufacturers?

The last thing I would spend money on would be an MDF router table

I've never seen a "help my shaper table is sagging" thread, so I'd go with what shaper tables are made of........Or buy a shaper which is what I did.......Regards, Rod.

[Matt Benton]

Don't know where you're located, but I'm selling my QG 24" x 48" router table. Just bought a new TS with a Jointech fence, and I'm having them build an extension for it.

Regardless, I would HIGHLY recommend calling Quality Grinding. There steel tops are the absolute best you'll find anywhere...

[Don Morris]

Matt,

I just went through the sagging router table top problem. I bought the table extension for my Grizzly 1023 and reinforced it with MDF, but after a couple years it developed a 3/16" sag. Bottom line: Watched the Kreg Pocket Hole Solution to Router Tables Video and even the Pro on the video recommended not trying to build it yourself...waste of time with the excellent solid surface choices out there. I settled on the solid core phenolic Bench Dog table top which had the pre-cut hole for my Pro-lift. Doubt that it's ever going to sag. I don't have a big shop size either and will miss the router being attached to the TS, but the extended table ended up sagging and THAT caused me no end of grief until I diagnosed what was causing me the inconsistencies. I looked into all different ways to attach the solid core phenolics to the TS, but never really found any that pleased me so I'm just about to build the router table ala Kreg pocket hole solution with a couple variations to their design. The separate router table will take care of the dust collection problem too and with routing, as you know, that can be a PITA. Whatever you do, if you put an extended table up to the TS, reinforce it well. The plywood of the Grizzly table + 3/4" MDF wasn't enough on mine.

[Matt Armstrong]

Don't know where you're located, but I'm selling my QG 24" x 48" router table. Just bought a new TS with a Jointech fence, and I'm having them build an extension for it.

Regardless, I would HIGHLY recommend calling Quality Grinding. There steel tops are the absolute best you'll find anywhere...


I really need a 27x36 size to attach to the side of my saw. Also, I'm assuming it's going to cost me more than the $130 or so that the woodpecker's table would cost

[Chris Harry]

You could consider a torsion box setup.

In my case, I was thinking of taking 2 layers of 3/4" MDF, 1/4" hardboard on top (for the slickness) and slicing a few lines along the 27" dimension (not too deep, maybe 1/2" or 3/4"), then inserting some steel strips. I figure that should help prevent some sagging..........eventually it might sag, but with the low cost of the materials worst case is I just build a new one.

Torsion box would probably really prevent sagging, but its a little harder to build. I might give it a shot though.

I do have a separate router table currently, but I look at all that space between the rails on my TS and feel like it would be a waste not to use it.

[glenn bradley]

I know that people say a dedicated router table is ultimately preferable

Just to add a little temperance; I have never said this and can't imagine that I would. However, I do not make raised panel doors or other repeat-cut parts by the dozen. My point is that the things that make my router setup great for me would probably tick someone else off.

I think your 27 x 36 is a good plan. You will want superior support to avoid sag. The main thing I see, here and there, that I do not understand is the positioning of the router so that the bit is between the router fence and the TS blade. This makes you reach over the table to use your router as opposed to standing at the end and having ease of movement to the left and right of the bit. Again, this would bug me to death but someone else is fine with it. Make it your own ;-)