Knock down table hardware...suggestions?

[Michael Donahue]

Hey folks. I'm working on a pine table that I'll be using as a desk. It'll measure about 30"x56" and if I assemble it permanently (M&T joints, etc.), I'll never be able to move it into the room where I need to use it. I saw this type of knock down hardware on Woodcraft's site and I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this or something similar. Is it pretty strong? I won't be moving the table regularly, but I want the hardware to be durable and able to withstand several moves if it comes to that.

Any advice is appreciated!

[harry strasil]

why not use bed frame hardware can't get much more rugged or simple.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Michael, I may be missing something however if your table is 30" wide, the aprons would be in the 28" wide area.

Wouldn't a 28" wide object fit through your doors?

If so, make the table with M&T joints, and remove the top to move the table, you're going to have to attach the top with screws anyway.

Regards, Rod.

[David Keller NC]

Micheal - I've used hardware like this before for a knock-down desk. I didn't put it in a hydraulic press to determine its resiliency ;), but the joint was solid as a rock.

I'll note that I still did the standard mortise and tenon thing on the aprons, and paid very careful attention to getting the M&T to be a tight piston fit. I also very carefully cleaned and squared the bottom of the mortise, then fit the tenon very precisely by taking one or two shavings off of the end so that the bottom of the tenon would bear against the bottom of the mortise.

Ordinarily, I make the mortises deeper than the tenons, and don't worry too much if I have a tight fit between the mortise walls and the tenon cheeks, reasoning that the glue would provide a plenty-strong joint. In this case, I figured the closer I could get the tenon shoulders, cheeks and ends to fit the mortise, the better - looseness begats more looseness in a joint like this.

I suspect that this sort of hardware's gotten a bad name from being used in conjunction with just butt-joints in cheap furniture. With only the screws to support the joint, they inevitably work loose over time.

[Michael Donahue]

Hi Michael, I may be missing something however if your table is 30" wide, the aprons would be in the 28" wide area.

Wouldn't a 28" wide object fit through your doors?

If so, make the table with M&T joints, and remove the top to move the table, you're going to have to attach the top with screws anyway.

Regards, Rod.

The doors aren't as much of a problem as the tight stairways I have to get through. That's why I was thinking something that could come apart would be best.

As far as the screw joints coming loose, what if I set the screws in the aprons with epoxy but allowed the legs to bolt on and off?

[Dell Moore]

Personally, I don't really like that style holder. I'd repaired too many tables and whatnot with that design that had loosed and broken over time.

IF you use it make suure to use a good lock washer or a threaded bolt.

Better, yet, think about Barrel bolts for your hardware.

Good luck!

[Jamie Buxton]

...As far as the screw joints coming loose, what if I set the screws in the aprons with epoxy ...?

If the top is going to be solid lumber, you shouldn't glue the apron running cross-grain to the top.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

I built a table like that to break down for easy shipping and had no problems with it. The wider the apron the more secure it is. And I would recommend building a cradle to hold the leg at 45 degrees and using a drill press to bore a starter hole for the threaded stud.

[David Keller NC]

"As far as the screw joints coming loose, what if I set the screws in the aprons with epoxy but allowed the legs to bolt on and off?"

Based on your material of choice (pine), you've a couple of options. If you make traditional M&T joints and don't glue them, then the table won't work loose and wobble. If you use butt joints, it will (come loose and wobble), regardless of how you secure the screws in the apron.