glue up technique

[joe milana]

Can someone describe a technique for gluing panel doors? Managing squeeze out, centering panel, etc.

[Rob Price]

I bought some little rubber balls that are supposed to help center the panel, eliminate rattle, and leave room for expansion. Problem is- they are 3/16 which takes up a lot of my groove and they are hard, almost plastic. I don't like them. I'm afraid they won't compress and my doors will split.

I recently recieved an email tip that mentioned using silicone caulk. Put a drop in the groove, let it dry, and this will accomplish the same thing.

[joe milana]

What about squeeze out? I'm sure some glue is contacting the panel in all four corners.

[Ellen Benkin]

Panels, if made of solid wood, are supposed to have room to expand and contract. Glue only one edge. I've used spaceballs and also hate them so I make my panels thick enough so they go into the grooves but not so that they rattle.

[Jules Dominguez]

You can use almost any kind of foam material. Just trim it to fit. It doesn't need to fill the grooves full length. The strip insulation sold to homeowners for doors and windows works. Don't over-engineer the problem.

[Karl Brogger]

Spaces Balls, and other brands of panel spacers are available in different densities and sizes. They are by far the easiest route, and they work just fine.

[Jay Jolliffe]

Foam backing rod. Buy it by the foot. Cut to size to fit dado. Space balls come either hard or soft. I use the barrel shaped ones that are soft when I can don't like the round ones.

[Rod Sheridan]

A dab of glue, top and bottom of the panel in the center will allow the panels to float, and stay centered.......Rod.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

For glueups I first dry fit everything to check for fit, grain matching, etc and then lay everything out on an assembly table in exploded view. I then hunt down a thin narrow cutoff and a scrap block of wood and squeeze a dab of glue onto the scrap. The thin cutoff is used like a spatula to apply a thin coat of glue to contacting surfaces. I then fit all pieces together and clamp. I check for square but have found unless it's cut square you're not usually going to be able to do any meaningful adjustment on the door....it will either be square or not. I try to only lightly glue the very inside corners and have a wet paper towel ready to wipe all glue off and rub it down well as it's almost impossible to sand the surfaces and keep the profiles. If you wipe it make double sure to get all glue off. If not leave it alone and when dry use a chisel to pop any little glue beads off.

I don't make a lot of doors and don't know that my technique would apply to production work. Also I haven't used space balls. If the center panel seems to rattle around badly I will take a putty knife and work a small piece of cloth or paper towel into the panel dado on the back side without really jamming it in. Also not long ago a cabinet man who has been doing this forty years told me to pin nail the joints after gluing them - according to him with age the glue can crystallize and break. It's the first time I've heard this and don't know if it applies to today's adhesives but if you have a pin nailer handy it's no expense and takes very little time.

[Brian W Evans]

I couldn't find this when I went looking for it (could've sworn I saw it on WoodWeb), but I read in a few places that spaceballs can stain solid wood - something about one of the chemicals in the rubber leaching out over time. I seem to remember reading that the barrel spacers don't do this.

I've never used space balls or barrel spacers, but thought I'd throw this out there for comment since I have read it more than once.

[Paul Johnstone]

What about squeeze out? I'm sure some glue is contacting the panel in all four corners.

Use a glue brush to lightly coat the rails/style joint when you assemble the doors. You will get a slight squeeze out in the rail/style joint, but not enough to glue the panel in place.

[Chris Padilla]

I couldn't find this when I went looking for it (could've sworn I saw it on WoodWeb), but I read in a few places that spaceballs can stain solid wood - something about one of the chemicals in the rubber leaching out over time. I seem to remember reading that the barrel spacers don't do this.

I've never used space balls or barrel spacers, but thought I'd throw this out there for comment since I have read it more than once.

Another option over spaceballs is simple silicone caulk. Lay some beads out on wax paper...let cure...cut up with scissors.

[Steve Clardy]

I couldn't find this when I went looking for it (could've sworn I saw it on WoodWeb), but I read in a few places that spaceballs can stain solid wood - something about one of the chemicals in the rubber leaching out over time. I seem to remember reading that the barrel spacers don't do this.




Stain is all due to improper use.
Spaceball manufacturer gives a specific gap that needs to be left between your panel and the stiles, which is 5/16"
Vary off of that too much, and the pressure squeezes the oil out of the little rubber balls.

Proper gap, no problem. I've never had the stain problem.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

What about squeeze out? I'm sure some glue is contacting the panel in all four corners.

Ignore it. Seriously, ignore it. Don't touch the squeeze out don't try to get it off don't mess with it - till the glue is dry.

One of the hardest things for me to do for years and years was to just let it be. I just HAD to fuss with it while the glue was wet. Damp towel, razor under the dribble, chisel, alcohol on a towel, straw sucking it up - - you name it - I messed with it.

Don't mess with it. Leave it be till the next day and take a chisel to it. The glue will pop right off.

If you feel like you HAVE to do something pre-treat your doors. Pre-finish 'em or just rub some fine saw dust on the areas where the squeeze out will occur. You might try painter's tape. I don't never have but you might try it.

I'd just leave it alone.