Table Top Glue Up

[Wayne Bitting]

Hi All! I’m going to build a changing table to match the crib that I just built for baby #1 due in 6 weeks. I crib is cherry and I want the table to match. I’m not interested in using ply for the top and sides, want to stick with solid wood. The top will be 48”x18”, is there any advantage in using wide width vs smaller width boards when gluing up the slab? I didn’t know if say three 6” boards would want to move more over time then six 3” ones. Thanks -w

[Prashun Patel]

Hi All! I’m going to build a changing table to match the crib that I just built for baby #1 due in 6 weeks. I crib is cherry and I want the table to match. I’m not interested in using ply for the top and sides, want to stick with solid wood. The top will be 48”x18”, is there any advantage in using wide width vs smaller width boards when gluing up the slab? I didn’t know if say three 6” boards would want to move more over time then six 3” ones. Thanks -w

Wider boards will move in unison. Narrower boards will move independently, which makes it possible for them to negate each other. So in general, a glueup of narrow boards will be more stable than one with wider ones. However, 48"x18" isn't that big; I think you'll be fine either way if yr planning to leave the ends unconstrained. Also, secure the base to the top in a way that accomodates some movement.

[Todd Burch]

Wider boards will move in unison. Narrower boards will move independently..., which makes it possible for them to negate each other. So in general, a glueup of narrow boards will be more stable than one with wider ones.

On what planet?


Also, secure the base to the top in a way that accomodates some movement.

Very good advice.

[Frank Drew]

Wayne,

As a general rule (IMO), if the looks of a table top matter -- for instance for a dining table or sideboard -- then fewer boards look better than more boards (unless there's a certain striped effect you're after), and, ideally, the boards will be matched (same tree, grain pattern, etc.).

For a utility table, for which you just need a top surface not intended to showcase the wood or your workmanship, then any old glued-up panel will do, I guess.

I agree with Todd on wood movement, assuming well-dried stock.

[Prashun Patel]

On what planet?

I should have been more specific. I'm talking about bowing and cupping - not shrinking or expansion laterally.

[Jim Kountz]

Narrow boards will make a more stable panel but dont look as nice as wider boards.

[George Bregar]

Thre 6" boards will look fine, and you should have to worry about cupping if you mill the wood properly. A breadboard end will dress things up and help keep the panel flat however.