A little glue question.

[Bill Huber]

Titebond III is strong, water water-resistance but will dry dark in color but will Titebond Original dry with no color or really light?

I am gluing maple and Titebond III leave a really dark line at the glue line. So

I was thinking of using Original, this is all inside stuff, so would it do better about showing a line?

[Steve Mostoller]

Titebond II, i've had good results with it in maple, Steve

[Bill Huber]

Titebond II, i've had good results with it in maple, Steve

Thanks Steve, I will get some II.

[Leo Graywacz]

Hey Bill, how the heck are ya?

If you use TB II you should have no issues. It has a high/fast tack and will dry to a light color. It is pretty much all I use. Strong as all get out and weather resistant. You can make outdoor furniture with it and it will survive. How's the weather out there, still dry? ;)

[Bill Huber]

Hey Bill, how the heck are ya?

If you use TB II you should have no issues. It has a high/fast tack and will dry to a light color. It is pretty much all I use. Strong as all get out and weather resistant. You can make outdoor furniture with it and it will survive. How's the weather out there, still dry? ;)

Well its been raining really nice this spring but here it is June already so that means not more rain until fall......

I got a bottle of II and will give it a try.

[Peter Quinn]

I use tite bond I for maple with no problems. Dries very light in color, and its the cheapest of the bunch if you don't need the water resistance. Type II certainly works fine and is lighter than type III, maybe a bit darker than type I? Maple is an easy wood to glue in any event, so type III is really not necessary. Can't imagine a situation where I would need type III water resistance and be using maple at the same time actually.

[David DeCristoforo]

Is it a little question or a little glue? Ha! OK, sorry. I have glued up thousands of liner feet of maple with Titebond and never had any problems.....

[Chris Padilla]

TB I will dry a little lighter blonde than TB II but I think either would go well with maple. TB III's color is very nice with walnut and darkish/darker woods.

[David Keller NC]

Bill - This wasn't directly in your question, but I'll note it just in case. Titebond II leaves a yellowish film behind when it dries, and like most PVAs, it will not take any finish, particularly an oil finish.

For the reason that it dries a very light color, I've found that it can be difficult to see on a really light wood like maple or holly. So if your habit is to sand/plane the wooden parts before assembly (that's my choice), it's beneficial to make sure that you can see absolutely all of the glue on the surface before putting on the finish chemicals. Otherwise, you have to do a lot of sanding/planing to make sure it's gone.

So - when I use PVA glue, I add a fluorescent dye to it, which is highly visible with a cheap "black light" - it really makes it easy to see, so I'm just planing/scraping the small area where an errant glue spot showed up instead of guessing.

I mix my own (I've a chemistry background, so getting fluorescent dye as a powder is no problem), but you can buy titebond II with the dye already added:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18012&filter=stains%20dyes%20colors

One other note - most of the time I'm using hot hide glue. Hide glue, either the hot or stabilized cold variety, has the property that the dried glue will absorb most oil-based finishes. That makes life really easy - you don't have to worry about scraping off every tiny errant glue spot, because it'll be invisible once a dye or finish is put on.

[Steve Clardy]

I've always used the Titebond original on everything.
Never had any problems with glue lines showing, even in walnut

[Chris Padilla]

Here are various glues BEFORE they've cured.

Yeah, I need to post pics AFTER they've cured...just need to take them.

:)

[Bill Huber]

Bill - This wasn't directly in your question, but I'll note it just in case. Titebond II leaves a yellowish film behind when it dries, and like most PVAs, it will not take any finish, particularly an oil finish.

For the reason that it dries a very light color, I've found that it can be difficult to see on a really light wood like maple or holly. So if your habit is to sand/plane the wooden parts before assembly (that's my choice), it's beneficial to make sure that you can see absolutely all of the glue on the surface before putting on the finish chemicals. Otherwise, you have to do a lot of sanding/planing to make sure it's gone.

So - when I use PVA glue, I add a fluorescent dye to it, which is highly visible with a cheap "black light" - it really makes it easy to see, so I'm just planing/scraping the small area where an errant glue spot showed up instead of guessing.

I mix my own (I've a chemistry background, so getting fluorescent dye as a powder is no problem), but you can buy titebond II with the dye already added:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18012&filter=stains%20dyes%20colors

One other note - most of the time I'm using hot hide glue. Hide glue, either the hot or stabilized cold variety, has the property that the dried glue will absorb most oil-based finishes. That makes life really easy - you don't have to worry about scraping off every tiny errant glue spot, because it'll be invisible once a dye or finish is put on.


David, that is a great idea, I will have to get some of that, it would sure be nice to see it before you start the finish.

Thanks...

[Bill Huber]

Here are various glues BEFORE they've cured.

Yeah, I need to post pics AFTER they've cured...just need to take them.

:)

I will be watching for the next post with the picture after it has cured.

[Chris Padilla]

I will be watching for the next post with the picture after it has cured.

Feel free to pester me to death until I do so...I will try to take them tonight and post tomorrow. :)

I did this to start in order to start what I thought might be a useful thread for folks since these are common glues we all have and use.

Now your thread finally gave me the impetus. :D

[Andy Bardowell]

Titebond II, i've had good results with it in maple, Steve
Same here Bill.

[Chris Padilla]

Here you go.

Glue layed out on March 7.

After pics taken on June 3. Almost 3 months of curing time! :D

I apologize about the lighting being different. The originals were taken with more sunlight involved...the after pics were taken early this morning in my garage...no sunlight.

I will update this with pics taken with more sunlight involved.