Right tilt vs left tilt TS?

[Stephen Edwards]

I've always had left tilt table saws. That's what I'm familiar with and comfortable with. I usually work with the fence on the right side of the blade.

There's a right tilt uni-saw available in my area for $350, an older one, that appears to be in good condition. It's a right tilt.

I'd appreciate any thoughts, advice, things to consider, etc. as I consider this saw. Pros and cons of a right tilt saw?

Thanks,

[Paul Murphy]

I've had both right and left, and like the left for edge mitering panels. I don't do those cuts very often, but the left tilt allows a full size panel to the right of the blade without "trapping" the workpice under the blade. It seems safer.

The only downside to left tilt is having the motor housing just below your left extension wing. Some clamping operations such as feather-boards may require a lower under table profile with less bulky clamps.

[Mike Henderson]

You'll probably get a lot of opinions - this subject has been discussed many times - but for me, it just depends on which one you like and get used to. I've used both and for the majority of my work, it doesn't matter. For a few angle cuts (meaning the blade is at an angle) I have to stop and think things through, depending on which I'm using.

I have more experience with a left tilt more and would favor that in making a purchase.

Mike

[Phil Phelps]

Could you get used to driving in England? If it's a good saw, buy it.

[Bill Spievak]

i've used both as well. Since I use the dado blades a lot in my cabinet and furniture work I prefer the right tilt. This means that when I am cutting bevels I have to move the fence, but that is less work for me than figuring the dado thickness when setting up those cuts.

[Jason White]

Like you, I've always used a left-tilt and don't think I could get used to a right-tilt. Maybe it's because I'm left-handed?? Dunno.

I do also feel a little safer with the blade pointing away from my hands when I'm ripping a bevel.

Jason



I've always had left tilt table saws. That's what I'm familiar with and comfortable with. I usually work with the fence on the right side of the blade.

There's a right tilt uni-saw available in my area for $350, an older one, that appears to be in good condition. It's a right tilt.

I'd appreciate any thoughts, advice, things to consider, etc. as I consider this saw. Pros and cons of a right tilt saw?

Thanks,

[Jason Hallowell]

I think it all depends on personal preference. I grew up using a right tilt, and feel somewhat safer using them, but I think most people have the opposite experience because left tilt is much more common. I bought a left tilt saw recently, and am slowly getting more and more comfortable with it.

[glenn bradley]

Its a Ford/Chevy, Tastes Great/Less Filling sort of decision although some folks feel strongly about it. I prefer left-tilt to wrong-tilt . . . uh, I mean right-tilt saws but both are fine. Not that it means a hill-o-beans but I wouldn't consider a right-tilt saw. There is nothing wrong with them, I just prefer left-tilt. Like you say "That's what I'm familiar with and comfortable with".

[Scot Ferraro]

I have used both and each works fine. If you are going to use a sliding table attchment, similar to a Jessem, then you might consider right-tilt so that the balde spins away from the cut on compound miters. It is also nice when it comes to using dado-cutters since you can use the tape for measurements. If you do a lot of bevel work on your tablesaw then a left-tilt might make more sense. Personally I prefer to use a router and chamfer bit for these types of cuts and not the table saw -- I do not bevel much.

Scot

[george wilson]

My old Unisaw at work was right tilt. Made me use the fence to the left of the blade for bevel cuts,which I found awkward. My saw at home is left tilt,and for me is much easier to use,and I feel I have better control. I am left handed too.

[Eric Larsen]

Left handed. Left tilt. Never used anything else and never want to. I wouldn't even consider a right tilting saw. Frankly, I wouldn't take one for free.

But if you can get used to using it, $350 is a heckuva deal for a Uni.


(I tried driving on the other side of the road once. Once. The fine people of Anguilla may yet find it in their hearts to forgive me. :D )

[scott spencer]

There are pros and cons to both, and it really boils down to a matter of preference.

Right tilt bevels toward the fence on a standard bevel cut, which isn't as safe as if it beveled away from the fence. You can move the fence to the left of the blade for safer bevel cuts, but that makes it a non-standard operation, which is still not as safe as a bevel cut on a left tilt saw. Left tilt bevels away from the fence in a standard operation with the fence on the right of the blade, which is considered safer, but blade thickness changes skew the zero reference on the tape measure because the blade registers to the flange on the left side of the blade....this can be compensated for by recalibrating the cursor, using shims as spacers, and just measuring by hand. Blade thickness changes make no difference with a right tilt saw because the blade registers against the flange on the right edge of the blade.

The arbor nut on a right tilt saw gets applied from the left side of the blade and uses a reverse thread orientation, which is typically done with your left hand. The arbor nut on a left tilt saw goes on from the right side (easy for right handers) and uses a normal thread orientation.

I've owned both and prefer left tilt, mainly due to the arbor nut aspect.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Whichever side of the saw I have the miter fence on - - - I want the saw blade to tilt away. I had a Right tilt Contractor saw for years. I'm a lefty so my miter fence is on the left side of the saw (My left hand) . And the blade leaned into the miter fence. That made for a lot of very close to the pinkies cutting.

Some folks talk about binding and the Rip Fence being the important factor. I never much noticed any binding problems. I like to have my rip fence slanting away from being parallel to the blade. That way there's no catch on the back end of the blade.

[Don Dorn]

i've used both as well. Since I use the dado blades a lot in my cabinet and furniture work I prefer the right tilt. This means that when I am cutting bevels I have to move the fence, but that is less work for me than figuring the dado thickness when setting up those cuts.

I fix this with my left tilt with a small piece of blue painters tape. I put the fence against the stack and put the edge of the tape on the zero mark. Then, it's as simple as reading the edge of the tape.

Having had both right and left tilt, I definately prefer the left, but an old Uni for $350 - I'd make the switch if the saw is an upgrade for you.

[Peter Quinn]

Best situation, one of each in the shop. Short of that, personal preference. Left better for bevels mostly, right better for dados marginally. We have one right and several lefts at work, and sometimes that right tilt is just the thing. I figure I could get used to either but I bought a left tilt for my own shop. For that price I could probably get used to right pretty quick.

[Mark Boyette]

After 20 years on a right tilt unisaw our shop bought a left tilt saw stop 2 years ago. I bought the old (1964) unisaw from my work for a song. I'd take a right tilt over a left everytime. Mostly because I do a ton of dadoing.
as far as 45* cuts, the right tilt never gave me a problem.

[Cary Falk]

I have always used a right tilt and like it. I now have a 1970 RT Uni. $350 is a great price for a Uni.

[Karl Brogger]

99% of the time when making a bevel cut you'll want to use a left tilt tablesaw.

Right tilt is nice for dado-ing, you can dial it in for the head, then you're not adding 5/8 to everything when machining parts.

I have both and I am glad that I do.

[george wilson]

It is an annoyance to have to change the fence to the left hand side of the blade every time you make a tilted cut. That means cranking the blade down,and removing the guard,etc., at least it did with the original Delta fence. Then,you have to move the fence back again,reversing the reinstallation of the guard.

[Myk Rian]

Buy the saw, get it cleaned up and looking pretty, then sell it for a profit.

[Guy Belleman]

I saw a saw advertised on the Chattanooga craigslist, listed as a Unisaw, but it is a Delta 2000, a contractors saw with a 1 1/2 HP motor. With the table and long rails, and unifence, it might be well worth the $300.

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/tls/1190330895.html

The saw may suit your needs well, just be advised that it is not a unisaw.

[Von Bickley]

I learned on a LT.

I have a RT now that was a gift and I hate it everytime I have to miter an edge. I will NEVER have another RT in my shop.

Did I mention that I don't like RT table saws.......

[Chris Padilla]

I didn't realize table saw blades tilted!! ;)

Since most folks use the blade at 90 degrees (or 0 degrees depending upon your reference) for about 99.99% of cutting, get a good quality table saw and then "deal" with the tilt when you need it.

I grew up with a RT, I bought a new Grizzly 1023Z RT in 2000, and so RT works for me but frankly, if a good quality LT came along at the right price, I wouldn't hesitate.

[Stephen Edwards]

Thanks for your input folks. I'm gonna stick with my left tilt 'cause that's what I'm used to and what I like.

I did talk with the guy last night and emailed him with info that I think would help him to sell his Dad's old Unisaw. Honestly, I don't know much about those saws except what I've read and learned from other Creekers.

I notice this morning that it's no longer on the Nashville CL. I don't know if he sold it or has removed the listing to reword the description, possibly using some of my suggestions. The poor fellow didn't know what he had and I hate to see someone get taken when what they're offering for sale is in fact one of the "gems" that comes along just once in a while and their asking price is a fair price. You know how it is with a lot of people, they just MUST negotiate a lower price. I encouraged him to be firm with his price of $350 and I let him know that he had a very desirable saw that many woodworkers and old machine buffs are seeking.

The saw appeared to be complete and original except for the switch with only minor surface rust on the top and cabinet, very minor.

It may show back up for sale or he may have sold it last night. If the latter is the case I bet he got his asking price and someone got a great deal on Unisaw.

Thanks again for your input. I appreciate it.

[Stephen Edwards]

I saw a saw advertised on the Chattanooga craigslist, listed as a Unisaw, but it is a Delta 2000, a contractors saw with a 1 1/2 HP motor. With the table and long rails, and unifence, it might be well worth the $300.

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/tls/1190330895.html

The saw may suit your needs well, just be advised that it is not a unisaw.

This one was for sure a Unisaw. He sent me a photo of it. He had it listed only in the Nashville CL. One of my suggestions to him was to also list it in surrounding areas.

Thanks, though, for the tip.

[Ray Dockrey]

Just to add I had a right tilt contractor's saw for years and went to a left tilt Unisaw. I really like the left tilt better and to me it seems more natural and I am right handed. I think in the end it is just a matter of preference.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

OK. Call me ignorant, but what does the right tilt and a dado have to do with anything? The dado is at 90 or 0 which ever way you measure. Not sure what was meant by adding the 5/8".......

I have a left tilt saw. I don't have a dado blade yet, so I cut dados with my router... LOL

[scott spencer]

OK. Call me ignorant, but what does the right tilt and a dado have to do with anything? The dado is at 90 or 0 which ever way you measure. Not sure what was meant by adding the 5/8".......

I have a left tilt saw. I don't have a dado blade yet, so I cut dados with my router... LOL

With a right tilt saw, the blade (or dado) registers against the flange with the right side of the blade, meaning that any thickness changes make no difference to the zero reference point of the measuring tape. The 0" reference point remains the same regardless of blade thickness. On a left tilt saw, the blade or dado registers against the flange with the left side of the blade, meaning that as the blade thickness changes, the zero reference point gets skewed...much more so with the dado set than a single blade. It's not much of a problem though...I just measure by hand whenever I use my dado set with my left tilt saw.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Ah. TYVM. I see what the difference is. It has to do with the arbor. That would also make a difference with a thin vs full kerf blade too......

I just love this forum......:)

Now I'll just have to remember to always buy full kerf blades.....

[Chris Padilla]

Now I'll just have to remember to always buy full kerf blades.....

For a cabinet saw, that is all I would use. IMO, I think thin kerf blades only have a place in underpowered saws.

[george wilson]

Thin kerf blades are better at saving wood than thick kerf blades. You might get that extra slice you need for a project by using a thinner blade. They also save motor life by drawing fewer amps.

[scott spencer]

Ah. TYVM. I see what the difference is. It has to do with the arbor. That would also make a difference with a thin vs full kerf blade too......

I just love this forum......:)

Now I'll just have to remember to always buy full kerf blades.....

Or use a shim from your future dado set every time you use a thin kerf blade to get the total thickness to match... :D