Table saw bog down

[patrick ramsey]

I have a 10" general 650 3 hp cabinet saw. Never had any problems until this weekend. Attempted to make a 30" rip cut at a 15 degree angle through a 1.5" thick piece of red oak. I was using a Forrest 10" thin blade (my normal blade). Unlike most of my rip cuts, this cut took forever. the resulting cut surfaces were seriously burned.
I'm thinking either the blade is too thin, or the 3 hp isn't as powerful as I thought.
Any suggestions?

[Matt Day]

The wood isn't pinching the blade is it? Do you have a splitter, using featherboards, etc? Is the blade clean and free of pitch?

[Joe Scharle]

I think you've got a dull rip blade. My zipcode saw never has a problem until the blade needs cleaning/sharpening and it's 1.5hp.

[Brian Kincaid]

I stalled my table saw blade during a resaw after moving the saw a little ways in the garage. Burned the belt, charred the pulleys, etc.

Had to take a few hours to clean and re-align everything and now it cuts fine again!

Oh, it's a contractor saw so really not in the same league as yours...
Brian

[Prashun Patel]

I'm gonna vote for the blade or splitter (if you're using one) being slightly out of alignment.

I have a hybrid 1.75hp saw on 110v that rips 2" red oak fairly easily even with a 50t combo blade with a 1/8" kerf.

[David G Baker]

My saw would bog down when I did heavy cutting due to too long a run of the power cord. Went to #10 wire and my problem was solved.

[Phil Phelps]

My saw would bog down when I did heavy cutting due to too long a run of the power cord. Went to #10 wire and my problem was solved.

Good advise, David. Not just for this thread but on many tools. My PC portable compressor, for one.

[glenn bradley]

The nice folks here hit a lot of my thoughts:
- proper power hookup.
- sharp 24 tooth blade
- splitter
- good alignment (a perfect setup at 90* does not mean a perfect setup at 15*. If you haven't checked alignment at bevel, do so).

Keep us informed. This kind of thing helps us all ;-)

[John Thompson]

You buried the Forrest (probably 40 T) in 1.5 inch wood at a 15* angle which means the blade was actually contacting about 2" of stock at that angle. You have plenty of power to do that 2" cut so.. I think you may have a dull blade.. gummed up blade or just too many teeth in contact with 2" of contact.

Or a combination of things including these that may have already been mentioned. If you are not using a 24 T rip blade you probably should be in this case as you don't have enough gullet to remove all the waste ripping with the grain in 2" thick stock.

Good luck..

Sarge..

[patrick ramsey]

No to the pinching, and yes to everything else.

[Lee Schierer]

I had a similar problem a while back with my bandsaw. the problem turned out to be loose belts. Check your belt tension.

[Bill Huber]

I would check the belt as has been stated...

Now don't hate me for this question but is the balde on backwards. I have see this happen, don't as when or were but I have seen it.

[Jason White]

Sounds like maybe the blade is not aligned perfectly with the fence. Or maybe the splitter needs aligning with the blade (if you're using one). Or the blade is dull.



I have a 10" general 650 3 hp cabinet saw. Never had any problems until this weekend. Attempted to make a 30" rip cut at a 15 degree angle through a 1.5" thick piece of red oak. I was using a Forrest 10" thin blade (my normal blade). Unlike most of my rip cuts, this cut took forever. the resulting cut surfaces were seriously burned.
I'm thinking either the blade is too thin, or the 3 hp isn't as powerful as I thought.
Any suggestions?

[scott spencer]

The first thing I would try is cleaning the blade. You've got plenty of power, especially with a Forrest TK (assuming it's a 40T WWII). I'm also assuming the work piece is flat and straight?

[patrick ramsey]

The wood isn't pinching the blade is it? Do you have a splitter, using featherboards, etc? Is the blade clean and free of pitch?
No the wood was not pinching. I do have aqsplitter, am using a featherboard, the blade was clean - isn't now because of the burning.

[patrick ramsey]

All-
Thanks for your responses and suggetions. After reading all of your thoughts I suspect the only thing that could be wrong is a dull blade. As I have just recently spent an entire Saturday adjusting and aligning my saw, including installing a new set of flex belts. The blade was clean and I thought it was sharp, and the stock was four square. This was the first cut that I had a problem. So I guess it's off to the sharpener.

[John Parker]

Have you checked the alignment with the blade tilted? If not, check it out. Maybe your table is not set up for a bevel cut. Try cutting with the blade at 90deg. If it cuts ok it probably needs set for beveled cuts.

[Lee Schierer]

All-
Thanks for your responses and suggetions. After reading all of your thoughts I suspect the only thing that could be wrong is a dull blade. As I have just recently spent an entire Saturday adjusting and aligning my saw, including installing a new set of flex belts. The blade was clean and I thought it was sharp, and the stock was four square. This was the first cut that I had a problem. So I guess it's off to the sharpener.

Well, I think I see your problem. You state that you installed a set of flex belts. The link type belts are not well suited for running in pairs as their lengths will vary and the tension on each belt will not be equal. Most likely your link belts are slipping and not delivering the full power of the motor to the blade. Go back to the matched set of belts you had and see if your power returns. My guess is that it will. You may still want to clean your blades, but try the belts first.

[Chris Padilla]

I think everyone has you covered and for what it is worth, I do not think you should be using a THIN KERF blade with your 3 hp saw. What you gain in removing less wood could be lost in that blade potentially flexing. Heat build up could also be a problem and ruin the blade.

In my opinion, thin kerf blades are designed for underpowered saws, which you do not have.

[patrick ramsey]

Chris & Lee Thanks
will try your ideas.

[Peter Quinn]

I'm thinking Sarge nailed it, unless there is also a belt slippage problem. Forrest WWII is a good blade, but it is not a rip blade, and a long bevel in 6/4 oak is a fairly aggressive cut. Perhaps several factors are ganging up on you? Not quite the right blade, not quite full belt tension due to using link belts instead of matched V belts, a little tension released during the cut, a little flex fro the thin kerf due to heat or tension in the wood, none of which might cause the problem on its own but the cumulative effect is problematic?