Coping with inclusions?

[Dan Forman]

So I'm working on this Chinese elm bowl, and it's got a bark inclusion right near the edge. I soaked it with thin CA for rough turning, which worked pretty well, but I'm wondering what to do with it now?

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/P1020285.jpg

I'm going to soak it in DNA before giving it the final turn. Should I wait until after the DNA soak to fill the voids? Most of the really loose stuff turned away, what's left is still a little punky in the crevasses. I'm thinking of using epoxy, I haven't had much luck with CA and sawdust or coffee, it always seems to set up immediately, before I can get it into the voids, but I'm open to suggestions. Thanks

Dan

[Jeff Nicol]

Dan, Since the inclusion is not a real bad one and looks very tight right now, what I would do is just soak some thin CA into the cracks and edges. Then see what it looks like when the CA sets up. When you use CA and sanding dust or coffee grounds, the dust is rubbed into the void first and then the thin CA put on and let soak into the dust, then rub a little more dust/coffee in on top to fill any low spots. Since you are going to return it later it does not matter what it looks like right now, because when you start to return it the void may get bigger or be turned away completly. You may have to fill it again before final sanding so for right now it is to keep the rough turned bowl from comming apart at the void. I don't use the DNA soak and most likely never will. I rough out so many pieces that I have lots on hand to finish when I am ready too.

Good luck,

Jeff

[Steve Schlumpf]

Dan - I agree with Jeff in that I would put some CA on the bark area and let it dry before doing the DNA soak. Hopefully most of the punky stuff will be turned away when you go to finish turn it.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree just CA, let the glue dry then stick it in the DNA to soak. I soak my blanks for at least 48 hrs, take out DNA and let it flash dry then wrap with a grocery sack and put it on the shelf to dry for about a month.

[Reed Gray]

The thin glue won't fill voids. I chase the voids with the thin stuff first, then add some medium thick stuff on top of that. The thin will pull the thicker glue down into the voids, completely filling them. Let it sit for a while, then add some dust on top of the glue. You want the filling to be proud of the finished surface. If you fill with dust first, the glue may not penetrate all the way, and when you return it, you can hit dust pockets. You can also add a puddle of glue, let it soak a bit, then chase with dust, then soak, then chase till it is full. Of course, this can vary according to how big the voids are.

I don't really think it makes a lot of difference if you fill before you soak or after. The glue seems to stick well either way. Most voids will be fairly stable while drying (cracks are not), but bark can move more than the wood and peel away, so glue bark inclusions before drying.

robo hippy

[Dan Forman]

Thanks, guess I'll stabilize with CA now, DNA and turn, and see what I have left to deal with.

Dan