New Amana router bit burned and chipped hickory?

[Greg Magone]

I decided to try out my new Amana router bit. I am using the wavy edge bit on some hickory drawer fronts.

The new bit didn't like the hardness of hickory. At full router speed, it burned terrible on the hickory wood and kept grabbing the piece away. I tried slowing the router down a bit, but then the router appeared to bog down a bit. I tried taking a few light cuts but it wasn't working very smooth.

Any suggestions on how best to route the hickory wood?

Thanks!

[glenn bradley]

I would try a slower speed first although the bit is probably not that large in diameter(?). I did a search here under 'hickory burn' and got these two primary hits:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=3477

"Yep. Hickory is a tough row to hoe. About like hard maple. Router burn city."

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=41699

"I think Hickory looks better. More grain, color, etc. Has more tendency to burn when sawing, routing."

[Greg Magone]

The wavy edge bit takes quite a bit (it's about an inch in diameter).

I'd like to experiment to figure out how to use it properly, but only in a safe manner. Tonight I gouged (only a little gouge) my hand when the hickory board caught the router bit and the router "threw" the board backwards.

- What is the best way to take several light cuts? I assume that a fence is the best way rather than freehand, but the bit still caught the board a few times even when using the fence.

- Should I lower the router bit and take consecutive passes raising the bit a little each time?

- When a person says "slower", what is the relative amount of slow versus fast? I will fine tune by experimenting but would like to know where to get started on speed.

- Any other thoughts when using larger router bits?

I'm just getting started with more heavy duty routing. So far I've used smallish classical bead and ogee, and basic roundovers. I'm ready to start using bigger router bits, but only in a safe and effective fashion.

[John Thompson]

I wouldn't slow it down more than one number on your router for 1" and under. You might contact Amana and see what the manufacturer reccomends. But.. I would most definitely take lighter passes as I do with most wood but especially maple.. hickory.

I have preparation ripped about 6000 linear feet of pecan which is hickory. I went through about 3 saw-blade sharpenings on my 4 rip blades on those two (4000 & 2000 runs) opertations. So.. I know why my father chose hickory sticks to whup my hinny many years ago. :)

Sarge..

[Greg Magone]

But.. I would most definitely take lighter passes as I do with most wood but especially maple.. hickory.

Can you explain how you take lighter cuts?

For example, do you start with the router bit in a lower position (protruding less than full cut height above the router table) and extend it a little each pass?

Or do you set the height at full height and use the fence to allow the router bit to cut only a portion of the cut, and move the fence further and further back each pass?

Greg

[John Thompson]

Can you explain how you take lighter cuts?

For example, do you start with the router bit in a lower position (protruding less than full cut height above the router table) and extend it a little each pass?

Or do you set the height at full height and use the fence to allow the router bit to cut only a portion of the cut, and move the fence further and further back each pass?

Greg

I use both methods, Greg. On hand held opertations I set the plunger to the full depth of the cut I want to end up with. Then I simply retract the bit and lower about 1/3.. Another pass at guess-timated 1/3 and then the final 1/3 which is the pre-fixed depth I have the depth gauge locked in at.

On the table I set the bit to full cut. Then I find it easier using the table to simply eye-ball the fence using the same 1/3 method as opposed to having to set the bit after each pass with the fixed base 3 1/2 HP I have mounted under-neath. I use a Milwaukee with no lift as I personally don't find a lift necessary for me.

Good luck...

Sarge..

[Lee Schierer]

Be very cautious edge routing hickory. Unlike other hard woods the grain in hickory is much tougher and will often splinter rather than cut. Sometimes the only way to get a smooth cut is to climb cut*. Watch closely for reversed grain and climb cut those areas. You may need to make 4,5,or 6 passes to take light enough bites from the edge not to burn or chip. A fence will allow you to control teh depth of cut. Listen to the cut. If you hear splintering type noises coming from the cutter you need to take a lighter cut and/or climb cut that area.

*Climb cutting can be done safely by taking small cuts and having firm control of the router and the piece being cut. Climb cutting will tend to pull the router along the piece of work or push the piece of work in the direction it is being fed. Do not use a multiple Hp router when climb cutting.

[Bill Huber]

Can you explain how you take lighter cuts?

For example, do you start with the router bit in a lower position (protruding less than full cut height above the router table) and extend it a little each pass?

Or do you set the height at full height and use the fence to allow the router bit to cut only a portion of the cut, and move the fence further and further back each pass?

Greg

I don't know if its right or wrong but the way I do it is with the fence. I will set the bit at the height I need and then set the fence at the the depth it needs to be set at. I then set stops at that point on the fence and then move it out to take the stock away from the cut.

Then I just move the fence back as I need to make a small cut, keep this up until I hit my stops.

I did make adjusters for my fence so it makes it very easy to do. I have added screws on the main blocks for stops.

http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/micro_adjuster

[Greg Magone]

I solved the problem by cutting the hickory using five passes, removing some material every pass. For my setup, it was easier to adjust height the router protrudes above the table, starting low and increasing the height each pass.

This time, the router bit cut through the hickory like warm butter. Hardly any burns. A little bit of splitting (which hickory is known for) but much better than before.

[glenn bradley]

The wavy edge bit takes quite a bit (it's about an inch in diameter).

This has already been addressed but this statement makes me think you are cutting the profile in one run. The rule of thumb I use is to remove no more than 1/4" square of area per pass. That is; a 1/4" straight bit cutting a groove could cut 1/4" per pass maximum. A 3/8" bit would back off to 1/8" per pass. I visualize other profiles and shoot for 'about' 1/4" sq. of surface area per pass.

[Richard McComas]

I decided to try out my new Amana router bit. I am using the wavy edge bit on some hickory drawer fronts.

The new bit didn't like the hardness of hickory. At full router speed, it burned terrible on the hickory wood and kept grabbing the piece away. I tried slowing the router down a bit, but then the router appeared to bog down a bit. I tried taking a few light cuts but it wasn't working very smooth.

Any suggestions on how best to route the hickory wood?

Thanks!First I'm not familiar with a wavy edge bits. Second I have no idea if "bump routing" is a viable solution for you or not, I haven't tried it yet. Anyway heres a link to a Charles Neil video on "bump routing". Its the 3rd video down on the left side.


http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/category_player.php?type=1&cat=0

[Roger Newby]

Thanks for that link Rich. That is a really simple approach to a possible problem and I see where that can help with splintering on hickory and pecan. First time I tried routing some pecan, it splintered so bad I just walked away from it. I was trying to rabbet for a picture frame, and wound up doing a neander with chisel & mallet. Talk about earning your keep:eek: you want SHARP!!! chisels. I'll post a note about bump routing on my router station as a future reminder.

Roger